seanreit

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I'm building a Rookie II for Todd @ Dreamworks, he's visiting Texas next week for our local Jet Rally and wanted to have something of his own to fly.

I received most of what's needed yesterday, here's where I am 24 hours later.

One of the problems with Skymaster hawks and some other airplanes is the way you mount a servo to the wing with a Tam's mount.

Attached are pictures of my solution and I'll get more detailed shots as I actually drop it in, cause after I build my tams mount and box to surround it, I put fresh fiberglass cloth in the wing itself, then I put a layer of aeropoxy, then I drop the servo mount on top of that, mush it in a bit, and let it set for 24 hours. Again, I'll take pics of that and post here as I get a long.

This jet incorporates Todd's new trailing link struts, they are very very nice units, also incorporates a new main gear retract mechanism, it looks an awful lot like Robart 630, except it's machined side railes, not bent steel.

It's also incorporationg a Weatronic unit. I never saw one till today, but in less than an hour I was operating servos, and so far so good with that.

Also, instructions call for brass tubes inserted and glued in wing rather than in fuse. I always install them in the fuse so you can keep the verticles installed during transport. Personal pref, but makes life easier.

I'm hoping to have this airplane done by Friday or so.

seanreit

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Also should mention that we opted for 8711's on each wing, so the split wing had to be rejoined. On one picture above you can see an end shot of the control surface, there is a square piece of wood lathered in aeropoxy stuck in there and pulled taught against the trailing edge through the actual split with an exacto knife. Then the gap was filled generously with aeropoxy, after taping off.

When I pulled the tape this morning, the seam was clean, and the surfaces were locked together.

seanreit

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Pics of servo installed.

Airforce7

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Sean,

I put my wing servos in a Tam's servo mount and glued it directly to the bottom side of each servo hatch cover. No problems.

What is the size of the trailing link gear set you got from DreamWorks, large? Is the gear as stout as I think it is as compared to Jet-1A?

Ken

seanreit

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I don't know how to compare the trailing link set I've never seen them before yesterday, maybe Todd can tell you?

Shok

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Todd's coming to Austin?

Nice!

lov2flyrc

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Lookin good sean, guess I need to send over some brake hose and some strut hose clips ;-) Yea, anal I know

Ken,
The rookie uses our Pro-Link small mains and our large nose strut. These struts are extremely stout!

Yes Ronnie...I'll be at Austin [sm=thumbs_up.gif] No store though, just coming for some fun. Will bring the demo panels for our new lighting however....
Todd

seanreit

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150 flights on this baby, no brake clips hose necessary, but I can paint your airplane pink if you want me too Send whatever you need bud!

avicom

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Sean, Glad you are doing this. I just log in to search for rookie build threads and here you go. I'm also working in my friend's rookie. You are ahead of me, wow all that in 24 hours. Keep on the good work. Unfortunatly I have to stop tomorow again, I'm traveling on friday to the Gap in PA. Todd I will need to replace the nose of my BoomerXL what size nose strut I need. Prolink of course.

Rgs
Alejandro

seanreit

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It was either build this or drink beer all day, decided to do both together!

Thanks for the compliment. For those with Weatronic curiosities, I have three JR 10x radios with synthesized modules, and I will be trying to shoot this airplane down testing tomorrow or the day after!

seanreit

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forgot pic

avicom

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You welcome. Sean I get stock today in the vector mounts. There are 2 small screws counter sink and 2 - 3mm blk w/ small washer and nut. The manual don't say wich one goes to the inside of the pipe. For what I can see the 2 nuts are extra. The spacer have threads in both ends. Any pic of this? Thanks

Alejandro

seanreit

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Buddy, I've slept since then. This is the fourth Rookie Two I have built, and two of them had four way thrust vector, and two I built last year had the stock setup. As I recall, what I did was put the phenolic piece on the inside of the airplane glued to the side, with the aluminum piece that sticks into it with the screw from the inside and a screw from the outside as I recall.

The screw from the outside was black as I recall. And I remember it was a pain in the ass to do it the way the book said, but that it worked, and it was a tight fit! Also, mount your engine before you do all that, cause you are going to want to set your throws on the nozzle such that it can't over rotate and get exhaust to the outside of the nozzle, this will cause the end of your model. That "spacer" you are talking about is the aluminum piece I'm talking about above. The screw form the inside of the nozzle was chrome or silver colored as I recall. Also I seem to remember locktighting the inside screw with RTV or maybe regular locktight. Hope that helps, I don't have any picture of it. This one is getting four way thrust vectoring, just like my existing Rookie II.

avicom

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Thanks pal, I find the line that say that the chrome ones go inside the pipe. My friend don't want funtional vector, just like regular pipe. I'm doing dry fit first with engine in the rails. Tomorow I will do some little more work to it before packing my stuff for the flight.

seanreit

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It's two o clock in the morning, and I'm done for the day.

Some rough layout ideas for the control panel, made on my CNC machine, of course!

And a finished wing servo is secure, and horn on the control surface is secure.

Sonicwings

Hi Sean,

Your flow of activity on the Rookie build has stopped !!!!!!! lol, yes i did notice you have done your Lightning this week also--- Great work,

Ive just joined this great site, and now doing my first post---- having got a new Rookie sat in its box waiting for me to get motivated im following your work with interest----

As you are obviously a seasoned Rookie pilot, and builder, im keen to now your thoughts on some stuff,
Are you using the airbrake feature on these models ???
What turbine is going in this one of Todds ???
And do you have any preference for retracts and wheels n struts ??? still to buy some for mine----
Keep up the great work, cheers Jay.

seanreit

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The engine for the airplane was delayed getting here. There will be more pics today, the engine comes in around 10 am this morning. Today will be a massive jam session as the model must be completed prior to tomorrow night cause look what else I have to finish by Wed!

No airbrake, not required, use the canard setup in the book. Both Rookies powered by Merlins. I always recommmend and use Robart 630's, Intairco wheels brakes are great!

seanreit

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More progress

seanreit

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Bobble Head

Sonicwings

Hey nice Pilot---

The Merlin is a 35lb thrust engine, do you realy need this much power ??? i have in mind a Behotec with 19lb for mine---
Who's Vector nosil is that one in the pics ???

Sean, do you do any Strengthening of wood formers or undercarrage mount areas in the Rookie, ive been told some is neccesary ????
cheers Jay.

seanreit

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Only after I break something

There is no such thing as too much thrust

Dreamworksrc.com for the thrust vector, it is the bomb! And is that I have on my personal Rookie II.

Sonicwings

Hi Sean,

How did your planes go for you at the rally ??? Ive looked through the pics posted--- was a good weekend by the look of it all.

Can you share with me what you do in the fuel tank build, i have the factory kevlar one which is factory glued,
What size Tygon tube do you use inside the tank--- 1/8 or 5/32, and which clunk ????????
No header tank--- only the main into a UAT ????????
Any other tips would be most welcome--- this is my first turbine build,

Cheers Jay.

Airforce7

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I hope you don't mind if I answer some of your questions Jay. I also have a Rookie II.

First, I recently installed a 3.3 liter soda bottle with two metal bulkhead fittings in the cap. I used Teflon tape over the threads on the bottle as well, and I used 5/32 ID Tygon for the pick-up and the vent lines. The pick-up line has a long brass tube that helps keep the tubing down at the bottom of the tank. The vent line curves up the bottle to a point where the tank can be filled completely. The fuel leaves the main tank and goes directly into my BVM UAT. I put some quick disconnect fittings on the tubing leaving the tank to the UAT and the vent fitting on the fuselage so that I can easily remove the tank if I need to. I’ve never used the recommended Kevlar tank from C-ARF, but I’ve handled one before and I don’t like it.

I would recommend using the same ID Tygon tubing that attaches to the UAT for filling. For the tubing leaving the UAT to the pump, I now use the tubing that came with the UAT originally. When this large ID tubing reaches my JetCat pump I use a short (10mm long) piece of clear tubing (normally used for the fuel delivery line to the turbine) over the pump barb to mate with this tubing. I believe the larger diameter tubing all around helps the pump to not work as hard to get the fuel to the turbine. You can easily witness the effect of the smaller ID tubing when the UAT collapses on itself while the turbine is running.

Here are some pictures...

CARBUNCLE

hey sean where did you get that fod screen?

seanreit

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Fod Screen from Dreamworks. 1/4 inch tygon. I used the extra large fuel tank that comp arf sells, you have to build it, not the prebuilt. I use the super heavy duty dubro clunk, the BIG one. I don't have any tips that I have not posted. But if you plan on pulling G's, glue all the formers you can reach in teh wings with aeropoxy, we bent a spar this weekend and blew a wing apart. I should say Todd did. But the maneuver was very violent, on purpose, so I don't know if you can get there, and it was with a 38lb thrust turbine. HE was able to get the plane back and land it. But only with full leftt aileron the whole way back.

I'm reglueing mine anyway.