jkirkon

My Feedback: (6)

Thomas,

The rear wing spar is indeed very close to the trailing edge of the wing. I had initially planned on using the same hinges from Dreamworks (Tamjets), but after measuring it out, and looking it over, I felt uncomfortable doing so, because of the proximity of the spar, and the amount of material I would have to remove from the hinge to make it work.
I stuck with the tried and true Robart large hinge points, as per the instructions.
I installed some hard balsa blocks in the wing t/e and flap/aileron l/e to give the hinge points something to bite into.
Aileron hinges were installed in a conventional manner, and the flap hinges were installed in a 'V' shape. Using this method, you will have to trim the very end barb of the inboard flap hinge on the wing side. You will NOT drill through the wing spar.

I will post some specific pics when I get home tonight.

Jeff

Shaun Evans

Mr Jackson,

What engine did you have? Was it bypassed? Were there two of them? I'm very curious about the problem you reported.

Invert,

With stuff like the flap hinge issue, just take comfort in knowing that it's been working in plenty of these planes for a long time. If you did drill a hinge-sized hole in that spar, it wouldn't make a difference. If you can avoid it, that's just more peace-of-mind for you.

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

Gents

I drilled through the rear spar on my previous Hornet and had no issues. I secured the hinge points with Aeropoxy and used the hard block method Jeff talks about in his post.

should be a good year for Hornets!!

cheerz
buck

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

shaun,
yea i wasn't sure if people had been drilling through the spar or not. 2 or 3 3/16" holes i guess won't hurt anything, especially w/ all the carbon reinforcements on the new wings. And i'm not real fond of the "V" idea either, b/c that doesn't put alot of penetration into the wing (maybe 1/2") and i think this would act as more of a lever action pulling the hinges out of the wing, than if i just drilled thru the spar. Guess i'll just drill thru the spar

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

now i feel much better about it. I've got one turbine on order (RTI built Ram 1000) that should arrive tommorrow. just need to find another on now.

jkirkon

My Feedback: (6)

I realize that some may have done it without issue, but I don't think I would have a warm, fuzzy feeling about my wings if I had drilled through the spar.

By installing the 3/16" hinge points like I did, all of my hinges except the inboard hinge, have the full length of the hingepoint installed in the wing. I don't have one in front of me, but it is at least 1".
The inboard hinge has only the last barb clipped off, as it is too close to the spar to go all the way in.

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

I had one Ram 1000 (detuned to 20 lbs thrust) and a Ram 750 Plus. Both engine were in Jettech bypasses.

jkirkon

My Feedback: (6)

What is everyone using for the stab pushrods? My stab servos are in the stock location, just forward of the rear main spar.
I can't seem to find anything off the shelf that is either long enough (approx 22" long), or that I am happy about.

I had read in another thread about a gentleman who aeropoxied a 4-40 rod inside a suitable sized c/f tube, then aeropoxied that assembly inside a larger diameter c/f tube. I believe he capped this off with some 4-40 metal ball links. GREAT idea, but am having a little troubel sourcing the proper sized tubes for the job.

Any thoughts, ideas????


Jeff

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Jeff,
the setup thats currently in mine, is 4-40 threaded rod into the dave brown fiberglass pushrod tubes. they are assembled as per the instructions, but the 4-40 rod goes about 1 1/2" into the pushrod before it makes the 90* bend. But the servo's are currently mounted at the aft vertical stabilizer bulkhead, but the system is very stiff. i believe i'm going to attempt to find a 4-40 rod thats long enough, so when i relocate the servo's to the stock location, the pushrod will be solid 4-40 rod the entire way, then have the dave brown pushrod over the 4-40 rod and aeropoxy or hysol holding the two together to stiffen everything up.

and then their is always this:
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...roducts_id=589

which i just found and like better.

jkirkon

My Feedback: (6)

Thomas,

I have those same pushrods from Dreamworks in my Yellow F-16. They are awesome, but about 3/4" short for the F-18.

I suppose I could take 2 pieces of that 6mm pushrod, run a 4-40 rod through it, and sleeve/aeropoxy the whole thing with a c/f tube of appropriate diameter.

Jeff

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

jeff,
3/4" man, that sounds about like the luck i would have. haha. i've used the 4-40 and davebrown setup alot previously on 40% airplanes w/o any issues, so thats probly the route i will end up going.

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

Jeff

on my previous hornet i used the DB carbon push rods with 4-40 end caps and threaded rods. to minimize the flex, I inserted an appropriately sized wooden dowel that ran the length between the end caps.

flex is non-existent under tension (up elevator) and nearly as good under compression ( down elevator)

you guys crack me up.

chillax bro's life is good. my primary concern when flying was loading up the airplane in a dive or turn.

jkirkon

My Feedback: (6)

I had thought about doing it that way, Buck. I was concerned about the flex under compression. May do so If I can't come up with something that makes me happpier.

Ideally, I would like to use the Dreamworks setup, and find some longer rods so that it fits my application.

I have it in my Yellow F-16 and it is absolutely rock solid.

Jeff

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

thats what i'm probly going to go with. this is definately a big project and I for one, just want to eliminate as many of the weak spots as possible. I got one of my Ram 1000's for it yesterday, but still need another..

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

I was willing to accept the minimal amount of flex under compression because i knew I wouldn't be requiring down elevator for my style of flying. i.e. I didnt' plan on doing extended periods of inverted flying. those fuel tanks weigh a ton!!!!

Shaun Evans

Buck,

Let's see some pics of YOUR project, bro! Help keep ME motivated....

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

LoL

all you gotta do is search GRbaker and look in his gallery.

I'm cheating and gave it to gary to frame up while I was in san diego last month. he's almost done and then the fun begins!!!

i'm totally psyched to get her back on the work bench and hope to have her done in time for Greater SW Jet Rally in Sept.

I know a thing or two about staying motivated on this project amigo. she'll wear you down!!! Ha

grbaker

My Feedback: (29)

Here are some pics of the YA twin Hornet that Buck's been workin' on.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

yall are talking about motivation needed. i'll have to upload pics of what i've been doing for 3 days. stripping paint off the entire airframe so you can save a few pounds of weight by HAND is a major pain... the only thing thats keeping me motivated is the pics of everyone else's projects

Shaun Evans

Buck,

You cheatin' suhmuhmab*tch (that's Bernie Mac's word for it...)

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

ok,
here's what 3 days of work stripping paint gets you. the 2 hatches are done, and the fuselage.. well, you can see whats left. The Tip earlier of looking for a "orange-strip" from home depot ended up with nothing there. BUT they did have a chemical called "citristrip" that i picked up 1/2 gallon for $21. After testing it on the older fiberglass parts, and letting the stripper sit on the surface for 12 hours, it was deemed safe for fiberglass. It still does a crappy job at stripping b/c it really just softens the paint, it doesn't bubble the paint like the potent stuff i'm used to. anyways, here's some pics.

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

uggh I gotta lot work left to do!!

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

LOL!! you had to ask for pix didn't you!! it'll be back in my garage in a couple of weeks.

jkirkon

My Feedback: (6)

Buck, if you're gonna cheat like that, I hope at least Gary makes you do the gear doors yourself!

I've got to install hardwood blocks in the ailerons/flaps for the control horns, and install the hardpoints for the weapons pylons, and wings/ect will be ready for glass.

Oh, and the sanding......let's not forget the metric buttloads of sanding.........[:@]

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

oh yeah bro, i'm not looking forward to the gear doors!!!! however, i'm gonna cheat here also just like my previous jet. they won't take long to get on and will provide for easy maintenance.

if ya' aint cheatn you aint tryin'