jkirkon

My Feedback: (6)

Yeah......back in my Navy days, we called it 'competitive edge'. Sounds so much nicer than 'cheating'!

Don't buy up ALL the Nelson Piano hinges, I need some for my flap/aileron gap covers.
Jeff

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

[X(]

you guessed it amigo. simple and easy

Shaun Evans

LOL,

You always were the "Git 'er done" builder, weren't you?

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

oh yeah bro'. I'm a stand waaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyy off scale builder. it try to make up for it in the air though.

now let's get this thread back on track and get some more progress pix up!!!!

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

I just place the order for all my air system stuff at dreamworks.. holy crap that stuff adds up fast. Oh well. the top of the fuselage has the paint stripped from it, just gotta sand down the stubborn spots. i'm glad whoever painted this jet didn't know what they were doing w/ the crappy prep job, as most of it started stripping and peeling off pretty easily after awhile and once i figured the technique down. haha...

Any recommendations on rehanging doors, except for lots of beer. lol

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

I'm gonna use nelson or aircraft spruce and specialties piano hinges. however, others have had great success with the standard offset hinges.

i prefer to have them removeable for ease of maint after a poor landing (not that therez anything wrong with that)\

keep up the good work on your rebuild.

cheerz

buck

Shaun Evans

Buck,

Yeah, you make up for it in the air. No doubt about it. In fact, you were a pretty good teacher as I recall. Stand waaaayyyy off is all you can do if your plane is always up in the air, no? No hangar queens for the Buck O' Five!!!

Shaun Evans

Hey,

Got some more work done today. I capped the roots of the wings and stabs. Rounded the stab tips off and final sanded them. The stabs are ready for glass! I'm gonna put them away until the rest is ready for glass. Tomorrow, I'll sand out the plywood caps on the wing roots, do a little filling and final sand those.

jkirkon

My Feedback: (6)

Nice job!

NickC5FE

My Feedback: (31)

Looking good Big Dog

Shaun Evans

Hey,

Sanded out the plywood on the wing root and starting the glassing job on the stabs today. This was the first time I tried West System. I gotta say I'm NOT KEEN ON THIS AT ALL. In fairness, it's not the epoxy that's the problem, it's the application method I don't care for. I mixed but about an ounce of resin and layed the cloth over the stab. I poured a small amount down the middle and used a playing card to spread/squeegee the resin. While trying to wet out the cloth, I managed to do a lot more wrinkling and bunching of cloth than wetting. I tried with miserable failure to go around the curves with the playing card. I'm basically gonna have my work cut out for me when this side of the stab dries.

After that little experiment, I went back to doing what I know how to do--glassing with a paint brush and thinned-down resin. I used the West System stuff since I paid an arm/leg for it, but nobody seemed to know whether or not you could cut it with denatured alcohol (what I normally use for cutting epoxy). I gave it a shot to see what happens. I'll report back.

SPLIT S

Aerospace Composites EZ-Lam !!!!!! I actually enjoyed glassing - and I usually hate it.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

But how are you applying it?

SPLIT S

Very similar to what you are doing. I mix the resin per their directions reducing it with denatured alcohol. I pour a very small amount onto the glass and use a foam brush to gently spread. I have to tell you that the glass practically wets itself out and takes no time at all. I'll use a playing card to remove the excess - which is an extremely small amount. Besides the ease of the wetting process I find that the next day the resin is hard - it doesn't have the slight tackiness that I've had with Z-Poxy and the like but sands just as easy as anything I've tried.

grbaker

My Feedback: (29)

Shaun,

I use the West Systems but I apply it with a small cheap foam paint roller. If the epoxy gets too thick in one area just keep rolling it out to a dryer area. Works great for me.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

here's my progress over the past 4 days. been putting in about 6 hours a day each day working on the thing. all the excess color you see are the stubborn spots that will have to be sanded out by hand. Anyone wanna trade? lol

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

I can't believe your wife is lettting you do that in the kitchen!!

she got a sister??

keep going, you're almost done.

good luck

myersflyers

My Feedback: (33)

Thomas, The Citristrip should get the small particles of paint out without sanding. Because this stripper is not as
toxic as the other brands you sometimes have to use the product in thicker applications and longer time frames
for those stubborn areas. I believe if you put a nice layer of the Citristrip on the remaining spotted areas and
leave it for an hour or so, you can pretty much take one of those green or blue scrub pads and water and wipe it off.


Shaun, I use West Sytems almost exclusively. You can thin it as much as 75% for glassing with denatured alcohol.
You will can use the brush to apply and the card to remove excess. It will dry rock hard. Over the years I come to
see the advanaged to just tacking it to the wood not gluing it to maintain a light but solid surface and the thinning
has helped me to accomplish this. Just a suggestion and nice build BTW.
PS. What's the twin 18 kit selling for these days?

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

Shawn, one thing you can do to help keep the glass cloth from moving all over the place is lightly dust the surface with 3m-77 spray adhesive and then lay the cloth on it. You can still move it around with your hands, but the slight tackiness will keep it from moving when you apply the epoxy.

Modelman

My Feedback: (7)

Shaun,

I've always had the best of luck by applying a quick spritz/mist of 3M 75 Repositionable Spray Adhesive to the surface before laying the cloth. Mind you, don't wet it - just a quick spray over the wing, etc. It allows you to lay, reposition and smooth the glass before applying the epoxy. The glass will stay in-place as you work the epoxy (including around tips and leading edges) and the epoxy doesn't seem to be prevented from penetrating the glass/wood.

My .02 cents (.022 CDN)

C.

(DOH! Looks like Doug beat me to the answer...)

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Thanks, guys. The kit goes for $1430 these days, and $830 for the scale gear. Those prices haven't gone up for 5 years. I'll be trying to glass the rest today.

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

good techniques. I haven't glassed wings in a long time, so these pointers are good memory joggers. I'll be glassing mine soon also.

hope it's ok to post pix here, cause' its only gonna have a single turbine for power.

grbaker

My Feedback: (29)

Buck,

Your bird is going to be a single? I could've swore you said it was a twin!

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

LOL..

hey buck, ya need a P-120 or P-200 bifuracated stainless pipe for the single? how bout an inlet? i need to part with the ones i have, would give a good deal on em if ya need em.

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

dude!!! you're killn me!!!

I'm looking forward to getting her back to FW!!!