Management deck...
#26
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From: East Providence, RI
What do you guys think of my MD so far? Should I have put my brake and gear valves so close to the front of the MD? I used Mini slims (analog) with 60 oz. Ok?
Anything I should be thinking ahead for?
Thanks, Peter
Anything I should be thinking ahead for?
Thanks, Peter
#27

HI Pete,
Only thing is that the front of that board is cantilevered considerably which might be an issue if you intend to leave the fill valve nipples in the valves and push your air line on to fill the tanks. the required pressure could break that board so you might be best to screw the nipples in each time to avoid having to push the tubing onto them repeatedly.
Looks good otherwise.
Hope that might help.
Craig.
Only thing is that the front of that board is cantilevered considerably which might be an issue if you intend to leave the fill valve nipples in the valves and push your air line on to fill the tanks. the required pressure could break that board so you might be best to screw the nipples in each time to avoid having to push the tubing onto them repeatedly.
Looks good otherwise.
Hope that might help.
Craig.
#29
Pete,
It seems your brass grommets that are inserted into the rubber bushings are backwards. The lip of the grommet has to be towards the plywood, the screw head acts as the opposite grommet "lip".... this should be done with ANY rubber bushed application.
It seems your brass grommets that are inserted into the rubber bushings are backwards. The lip of the grommet has to be towards the plywood, the screw head acts as the opposite grommet "lip".... this should be done with ANY rubber bushed application.
#30
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From: East Providence, RI
ORIGINAL: FILE IFR
Pete,
It seems your brass grommets that are inserted into the rubber bushings are backwards. The lip of the grommet has to be towards the plywood, the screw head acts as the opposite grommet "lip".... this should be done with ANY rubber bushed application.
Pete,
It seems your brass grommets that are inserted into the rubber bushings are backwards. The lip of the grommet has to be towards the plywood, the screw head acts as the opposite grommet "lip".... this should be done with ANY rubber bushed application.
Actually I took the mounts and grommets off all together to get the servo arm lower, It's just 4-40 thru bolted now. It should be fine without them...Right?
Pete
#31
That will work out OK as it's not for a critical surface, just be sure there's no 'slop' in the servo mounting over time. Usually the servo's first movement of the day to actuate a cylinder will strain the servo to get the O-rings unseated, the resulting force can loosen the servo mount over time.
TIP: Use a drop of Uncle Bob's (BVM) Thin-Lube on each side of the valve body... It offers a longer life to the O-rings and the servo may not have to work so hard.
For a control surface, you don't want any potential slop in the mounting...like a screw being a smaller diameter than the servo's mounting flanges (without rubber and grommets).
TIP: Use a drop of Uncle Bob's (BVM) Thin-Lube on each side of the valve body... It offers a longer life to the O-rings and the servo may not have to work so hard.
For a control surface, you don't want any potential slop in the mounting...like a screw being a smaller diameter than the servo's mounting flanges (without rubber and grommets).
#32
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From: East Providence, RI
Ok thanks again
I used grommets and rubber mounts on all control surfaces . Is there a substitute for
thin lube? Ive got some teflon oil. Pretty thin stuff. Would that work out?
Pete
I used grommets and rubber mounts on all control surfaces . Is there a substitute for
thin lube? Ive got some teflon oil. Pretty thin stuff. Would that work out?
Pete



