ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Perfect Shaun, thanks, thats what I needed. I figured they went against that bulkhead but just wanted to be sure. Got you PM before I read this so yes, it was helpful!

scalehelinut

shaun, I met you at Kentucky jets this year and have pics for you of your F-15 . I will try to e-mail them to you, I am starting on my yellow f-15 in a few weeks or so. I will be following this thread for sure. Thanks for starting this thread I will check it often !

757Driver

My Feedback: (90)

Hi Shaun, I wish YA would update this ARF with scale rotating mains and offer a twin engine version now that we have so many great turbines to choose from. I think the layout would be killer with the two air inlet ducts running where the fuel tanks are now but could be made larger if rotating mains were used as the gear wouldn't use up so much space in the fuselage (vertically). That would let you mount the engines aft of the main gear retracts and allow mounts to be integral with the aft main gear bulkhead. Scale gear doors! All that would allow ONE center fuel tank that would have lots of volume. The fuse would open up in front with the inlet duct redesign. Also love to see functional inlet ramps.

Well, if they won't do that, is it possible to order a fuselage painted in the ARF scheme but without the bulkheads installed?

Shaun Evans

Hi Jason,

I doubt it, but I'll certainly ask!

757Driver

My Feedback: (90)

To All: Sad news, the F-15 ARF is no longer in production. I got the word from Charles at YA when I spoke with him about getting a new ARF. The KIT is still being produced.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

That's a temporary situation. Anyway, I have one.....

mmontella

My Feedback: (36)

I am just beginning my Yellow F15 ARF build and the full kit version instructions that came with it are not extremely helpful in building the ARF so I will probably be asking a lot of basic questions on this thread. My first question is with regard to mounting the elevator and rudder servos. The pictures in the manual and on various threads show folks using mounting blocks for the servos. The ARF that I have has the recesses cut for the servo body and the holes pre-drilled for the mounting screws. Not sure if all the kits came this way or if the one I have is a newer or older version. Bottom line, what is the best way to mount the servos, flush with the cutout using the predrilled holes or use standoffs as I have seen in a few build pictures? It would seem that mounting them flush in the former would bring the backside of the servo awfully close to the pipe. Thanks for your help and this build thread! Mark

Shaun Evans

Hi,

I'd use the blocks. Did yours come with some?

mmontella

My Feedback: (36)

I do not believe that they did, but they should be easy enough to make. I will make up a set and use them on my build.

Another quick question, Is Hysol 9462 is the preferred adhesive for joining parts to the interior glass surfaces of the plane?

Thanks,

Mark

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Yes, that works fine, but so will a number of other adhesives. What are you gluing to the inside?

mmontella

My Feedback: (36)

for the most part light ply mounting fixtures for various accesories (Air tanks, air/fuel line keepers). mostly wood, but maybe some plastic as well.

Thanks...

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Yeah, for that I've found the "V-poxy" equivalent of Hysol best.

KC36330

that'd be E-20HP

mmontella

My Feedback: (36)

I could use a little advice in figuring out how to connect the Elevator servo pushrods to the elevator arms. The ball links are already connected to the elevator arm assembly, and I am having a hard time trying to thread the rod into the ball links in the plane. The servo bay is too narrow and I am not sure how to remove the ball links from the elevator assembly arms. I must be missing something here, because I have no clue how to connect the rods to the assembly.

Thanks,

Mark

Pete737

I was gonna post the same question.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Loosen the screw on the ball link and pop it off with a flat screwdriver. Measure your distance from the ball to the servo output shaft and make your rod that length. You'll still need to adjust it, but do that on the servo side. It's a pain, but it's worth it when you're done and you have no linkage showing.

mmontella

My Feedback: (36)

Shaun,

So you only have to loosen the allen screw on the side of the ball link to pop it off and do not the center sscrew that attaches it to the arm?

Thanks,

Mark

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Just the one on the plastic cup!

mmontella

My Feedback: (36)

Shaun,

Got it, thanks!! I thought that was how it was done, but wanted to be sure first so that I did not do anything stupid and break stuff in the process.

Is there an assembly manual specifically for the ARF or only the full kit build manual that I have?

Thanks,

Mark

Pete737

How did you end up getting a bite on the bolt going through the ball link on the elevator arm? I cut down a wrench and I can try it in but I don't have enough room to swing it. Did you drill yhr fuse to access it? Needle nose pliers to turn it?

Shaun Evans

Pete,

Why are you trying to take that ball off?

Shaun Evans

Mark,

No, there's no manual for the ARF. Theoretically, the last few pages of the kit manual should see you through, but we know how theories go...

Pete737

Shaun I wanted to use the ball and bolt from the dubro set I have. Didn't you say to loosen the bolt and pop off Tue ball with a flathead a few threads back?

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Yes, sorry. I meant the tiny bolt on the ball link itself. The Dubro one uses a screw threaded into plastic. Ours has a nut on the other side. That's the bolt I meant. What's wrong with the one in there? I think it's better than the Dubro...

Pete737

O nothings wrong with them. I have monster ball links and just assumed use the hardware that came with them. Do I have to use the ball link ends provided? Is that what most have done?