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Painting question
I want to add trim color to my (painted in mold) CARF Ultra Flash's fuse. I believe the way to do this would be using paint with the clear already in it, but I have no experience with such a product. Am I on the right track, or can it be painted with a 3 part paint without reclearing the entire fuse?
Thanks, Jay |
RE: Painting question
Jay,
Your painted in the mold jet most likely doesn't have any clear on it, unless it was clear coated after it was removed from the mold, after the seams were sanded and filled, then painted and polished. You could apply any two part automotive synthetic urethane enamel, like PPG Concept. The reason you don't feel any bumps at the paint separation lines, is because it WAS painted in the mold. Not because of a clear coat. The trim colors are applied, then the base color is sprayed over them. By "three part" do you mean two part paint plus clear? The clear is two part too........just sayin" |
RE: Painting question
!st off, thanks for your reply Harley. My terminology is off I'm sure. I have only used automotive primer, paint, then clear techniques. It seems to me like trying to mask & clear a trim color wouldn't work well. Could be in my head, but when I visualize pulling my masking tape off after clearing the trim only, it doesn't seem like I would get a crisp line. It seems like I would have to clear the entire fuse, which Im not willing to take the weight penalty
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What is painted in the mold exactly Harry?
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Contact Tony Quist here on RCU. He has done exactly what you are asking to his ultra flash and it looks fantastic.
Vin... |
RE: Painting question
As Harley said, a two part auto urethane is what you need. This is commonly refered to as a single stage urethane meaning that there's only one "stage" to the paint job ie. no clear coat. It is a two part paint and hardner sytem plus a reducer (thinner) if necessary.
Mike |
RE: Painting question
Crisp lines are a snap if you use the correct type of masking tape.
3M makes great masking tapes, the plastic type being the best. Scotch 471 for example, is a blue colored plastic tape that makes very crisp lines. Available in different widths. Scotch 218 (green) is another great fine line tape. http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/3m400-3.aspx Painting in the mold involves spraying the entire paint job into the female cavity mold prior to making the wet layup. after the paint job has been sprayed, the wet layup is accomplished and trimmed. When the resin has cured, the paint is permanently bonded to the fiberglass skin. When the part is removed from the mold, the paint job goes with it. The process is complicated but all of the filling, priming and sanding operations that are necessary for a regular paint job are eliminated. |
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Holy crap!! So the paint does not adhere to the plug but adheres to the glass cloth. Pretty neat.
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HOW DO YOU KEEP THE FINE LINE TAPE FROM PULLING PAINT OF RELEASE AGENT???????????
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You don't use fine line tape...sorry, but I won't reveal the entire process, but......the release agent is not PVA.....Keep guessing.
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RE: Painting question
Thanks guys, I think I got it. I don't have an air compressor & will be painting with automotive paints in aerosol cans. I just want to add black accents around my canopy area, & it sounds like I can mask it, wet sand, then prime paint & clear only the areas I add black to.
Thank you much! |
RE: Painting question
You don't even need to wet sand.
Just scuff the surface with a 3M 7447 pad to completely eliminate the gloss. Lightly wash the surface with PPG DX330 grease and wax remover. Dry completely, mask the area to be painted, wash with DX330 again, hit it with a tack rag and shoot the paint. Two light coats are better than one heavy coat. You don't even need to add the clear coat. |
RE: Painting question
Remember to wash BEFORE you start sanding. The fuse is covered with a kind of wax(release wax) from the mold. If you start sanding before washing, you will push the wax down in the glass fibre, and can cause the paint not to stick properly, or you can have silikon holes in the paint.
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RE: Painting question
Sounds really good. If I don't clear it, won't it run if fuel gets on it?
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RE: Painting question
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ORIGINAL: BlueBus320 I want to add trim color to my (painted in mold) CARF Ultra Flash's fuse. I believe the way to do this would be using paint with the clear already in it, but I have no experience with such a product. Am I on the right track, or can it be painted with a 3 part paint without reclearing the entire fuse? Thanks, Jay |
RE: Painting question
Here is the video to show it held up! There is an inverted spins in there, but truly hard to see. This is with a 36# thrust engine, not tuned down.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2V2CV...eBKXhi7pACUNiA |
RE: Painting question
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Here is my latest project, new out of the box, and fixing the seam on the fuse of a CARF Viper. First picture is out of the box colors.
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Thanks Dan, beautiful work!.. that viper jet has about the prettiest scheme on the planet! I wish I could get a UF in a Fantasy scheme. Can I get this omni paint in a aerosol can?
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well
,some yrs of trail and error.. and now all the secerts are out I guess ,we can't take it. to the grave great info |
RE: Painting question
aerosol bottle make one
ask your ppg dealer |
RE: Painting question
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Hi BlueBus,
If you are only adding black accents, here is what I did to do the same. My model was painted and cleared with PPG paint and clear. About a year later I wanted to add the black accents but did not want to re clear the entire model. I would have used black PPG paint but was out of the hardener. So I used Black Dupli-Color® Sandable Primer as the 'paint'(from PepBoys), and then put a coat of PPG clear on the black only. To minimize the ridge line buildup, i masked the black first and painted, then removed the mask. I then re-masked for the clear about 1/32" larger than the black, gently sanded the black ridge only and then applied the clear. The black still looks great after a few years, but don't tell anybody it's black primer from a rattle can:). The black on the nose is the same black primer, but with a satin clear from a rattle can over it. The other black markings are cut vinyl. |
RE: Painting question
Wow, I'm so glad I posted this question here! Thanks all, & Greg that's exactly what I want to do
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RE: Painting question
ORIGINAL: Greg G Hi BlueBus, If you are only adding black accents, here is what I did to do the same. My model was painted and cleared with PPG paint and clear. About a year later I wanted to add the black accents but did not want to re clear the entire model. I would have used black PPG paint but was out of the hardener. So I used Black Dupli-Color® Sandable Primer as the 'paint'(from PepBoys), and then put a coat of PPG clear on the black only. To minimize the ridge line buildup, i masked the black first and painted, then removed the mask. I then re-masked for the clear about 1/32'' larger than the black, gently sanded the black ridge only and then applied the clear. The black still looks great after a few years, but don't tell anybody it's black primer from a rattle can:). The black on the nose is the same black primer, but with a satin clear from a rattle can over it. The other black markings are cut vinyl. |
RE: Painting question
Good Sunday!
I don't think PPG stores will mix and put the paint in a rattle can for you, but NAPA Auto Paint Stores will custom mix and put in a rattle can. These stores are normally not in the car part stores of NAPA. Be prepared to pay $15-$50 a can, depending on the color. I have no idea where you are located in NY, but here is one option: http://yellowpages.ny1.com/biz/napa-.../10474/6596363 Best of luck! Just remember, that what ever you screw up, you simply sand off and start again. Just don't sand into the original color of the fuselage from CARF. If you are into the white base coat, you have sanded too far. Slow hand sanding with wet is best of at least 500 or finer. Take Care! Dan |
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