JR 1131BPU Receiver
 

Can someone tell me if the electric switch (soft start) eliminates the need for a traditional switch? It appears that it does, but I've not had any experience with this type of receiver and just trying to figure it out. Obviously the two power leads plug directly into the batteries, but I can't get used to not having a traditional switch if it does eliminate the need for one. Just unplugging the electric switch to go fly seems a bit frightening to me!

Thanks,

I have this Rx in my J-10. It's a great Rx and I have another one going in an F-18. The switch that comes with the Rx plugs directly into a port and you can power on/off with it. If you unplug the switch from the port with the batteries plugged in the Rx stays on. I don't think you can use a separate switch as the leads go to/from the port directly. I have not had any issues with this Rx or switch functionality since I've been flying my J-10.

Nope! The Rxer is still using power when it is switched off. It is just not supplying power downstream of the Rxer. However, the amount of power used when the Rxer is switched off is very low. Consequently, the Rxer's switch is good for a "day switch." But if you are putting the plane away for several days or more,... now you need to either have a battery switch(s) or disconnect the battery.

Thanks for the replies. So is there anyway to add a regular switch or do I just need to plan on unplugging the batteries after a day of flying and using the electric switch between flights? It appears to be a solid system, just different from what I'm used to.

The Rx does not regulate. So servos need to work at the input voltage going through the Rx, I use either a Powerbox Sensor Switch or Gemini II to power it. If you do that you leave the soft switch and lead permantly out.

Ive got several JR rx's with the soft switch. It works fine. I put the off plug on my neck strap so I knownwhere it is. One word of caution...pull the plug...not the wire as jt is thin and will break. A bind plug does the same thing if you break the original one.

That will work fine unless you can't get at the battery connections. Any switches you put in between the batteries and the RXer are more potential failure points. Also, any switches you put between the batteries and the Rxer have to be rated to handle all the current that will pass thru them. The typical switch with JR connectors can't handle all the current for large planes. ElectroDynamics has some switches that are rated for high current. There are other suppliers out there also.

But, I just disconnect the batteries. I pull them out for charging anyway cause they are LiPos. Also, if you keep the batteries accessible, you can swap them out mid-day w/o having to stop flying while waiting for internally mounted batteries to charge.

You could use the arming plugs that the electric guys use to make the connection between high power (50.4 volts 90 amps+) lipo packs and the ESC (motor control). We have to use the Red Schofield designed spark eliminator circuit but you don't need that for less than 30 amps. The arming plug itself is a male Deans plug with the two terminals connected and covered with heat shrink. The female deans mounts in a circular plastic flange that you install in a convenient location on your plane. I think the brand name Is Shumacher products. one version has male and female Deans plugs already installed. For two receiver packs two arming plugs are needed.I tried to upload a picture but the webpage won't co-operate. Just google RC airplane Deans arming plugs.

Max products sells a similar arming plug using sermos connectors. I prefer the Deans style but both of them work well.

Thanks guys! All good information. I can get to the batteries pretty easily so it shouldn't be a problem. I feel much more confident than I did before. I've been out of flying for a few years and trying to sort out all the newer equipment.
Thanks again for all the help!