Hysol 9462, Need Your Help
 

First off, I know his post has nothing to do with a jet but if I am not completely off, I think the Hysol Glue is something that is common in the Jet World so here it is. I recently purchased the Goldwing suhkoi and before I could even fly is, the motor box face plate broke trying to start the motor. I cut it out, then used Hysol to epoxy everything back together, added triangles for additional support on the inside and dowel rods on the outside. Will this fix my issue with the motor box? this is my first time ever using the Hysol glue line. Thank you for your help!!!

Hysol added to the outside of a seem on say an engine box may crack, but if you have a good glue joint on the ends and sides that firewall isn't going anywhere.

Thank you for your feedback.... So what I did was used a dremal and cut the face plate out as clean as I could. I then used the hysol on all ends both inside the box and on the face plate, put it back in place, then just figured for added support, I would use the Hysol on the outside anywhere were the wood connects together. Hopefully even if it cracks on the outside, the glue joint on the inside is good and strong. Just to be safe, I did put 4 dowel rods in and added triangles on the inside upper half of the box. I guess I will see what happens

If that doesn't hold it then nothing will.

haha that is what I want to hear, so another question (just because this is my first time ever using the Hysol)...... I glued the motor box back together Thursday Night (almost 2 days ago) and I just added the triangles and dowel rods last night...... Am I good to take the clamps off and re attach the motor mount and motor to the box? Or should I wait a little longer?

Hysol 100% cures in 24 hours if your place is over 60 degrees. So, your first part should be fully cured and nothing should move any more. But, I would normally wait the full curing time to mess with it.

Have a look at this:

http://www.ultimate-jets.net/blogs/j...glue-to-choose

http://www.ultimate-jets.net/blogs/j...-short-or-none


And the download section of the roduct page, where you can fing the data sheet and bulletin 1:

http://www.ultimate-jets.net/collect...cts/hysol-9462

Handling strength is achieved within 4 to 8 hours, and full cure within 3 to 5 days depending on temperature.

thank you

When making repairs that are being glued, it is critical to get all the old glue off and get fresh material exposed. If you do that, then hysol should hold. But, it is a slow cure. Got to get used to having something else to work on while it cures.

I have never seen the hysol itself crack. From what I have seen, usually if a hysol joint fails, it is because the bond to the material failed, probably because of poor surface prep, at least in my case.

This is an interesting post and quite timely as I am starting a non Jet (2m biplane) build.
I always assumed that for a wood to wood bond, slow cure epoxy was preferred to Hysol.
Does Hysol have excellent wood-wood bonding compared to conventional 2 part epoxy?
I assumed Hysol was the preferred method for wood to composite over epoxy.
Thanks for the expert advice and education.

There is some kind of paint on the wood.
Maybe for fuel protection.Im not sure you have good bonding.
You might gluing only that paint and not the wood it self.


Go to a shop that they make aluminium windows and doors.
Where they bin there leftovers go and find some " L " profile of thin aluminium.
Cut two pieces and put them on the two sides to connect the firewall with the sides.
Use screws and safety nuts.Not only glue.
Your engine holes are on the way?
No problem ,make hole in that point on the aluminium.Your engine will hold it too.

My 2c

Go with the Hysol. It's perfectly good for wood joints and it holds up better over the long run (years), particularly if the joint is exposed to fuels. Maybe today's epoxies are better but my experience with epoxies is that they yellow and become brittle over time. Since Hysol does not run it's also easier to work with.

Craig