RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

NICE ONE CYRIL !!!

David

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

i saw a wasp over i year ago but it had not run. like a lot of things there is a lot of talk but no action i wonder why!i have never seen one at any fly in in the U>K and i go to the best onesregards KW

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

sorry but video clip does noy play for the flight. only the very start is working

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi

Can anyone tell me the best and most trouble free system of operating the Gear doors on the Hawk/T45.

Air or servo operated doors ?

David

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

David

I will be using air rams on the gear doors. Please note that the main gear doors do require some beefing up as the doors as supplied are only thin glasscloth / gelcoat.The nose gear doors are stiff enough as supplied.

John

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi
having touble with gear door cylinders ( sizes and position). Any pics and advice would be welcome.

ie size of ram and best position for it . I have been trying to use some 30mm rams I had in the drawer but I think they are too long. Whats the secret for good gear door installation as these are my first.

Thanks

David

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi David
i am also flying the Hawk in red arrows colors
fly's absolutely trouble free
i am using the big tank (2,1liter) for flying and the front tank for smoke
i am getting 8-9 minutes of flying without problem
i use a 130N engine (the one from alan cardash his boomerang) especialy if you use like me smoke and lights you need a slightly more powerfull engine to get airborne,i fly of gras.
so a p-120 or something else would be needed
as soon it is in flight i only use 30% throttle to go around and fly a program.
mine has a weight of 12.5 kilo,s dry and 15.4 fully loaded.
for the doors i left them out , to much trouble and to much work.
as you can see there is not much room there.
belive me you dont notice it when the doors are not in the airplane.
instead go for the long range tank , this makes the hawk look even better and very big instead.

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

I have my Hawk nearly ready to fly now and wish to get some feedback on the scale strut springs. To me the springs seem very soft and it only takes a light push down on the wing to bottom them out.
Anybody else flying with these struts?

Ron

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

yes i did
i had the same problem
you need to source a stronger spring
what you can do also
use a small nylon screw withg some silicone tubing
to soften the metal to metal noice and have a slightly stronger gear
this trick was also used on a large airworld albatros

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hello RONW

I had the same problem with my Hawk and tried the following: I made up an aluminium spacer,which is almost like a "T" shape and fitted it into the spring. It made it a difficult task,to assemble the unit again,due to the spring tension. It worked,but I found that I only get about 5 mm travel,when the spring is fully compressed. I was still not satisfied with this,so I removed the spring and had a new one custom made,by a Spring Manufacturer. These guys are great,because you can tell them what you want and they will make it exactly as you requested. They increased the gap between the coils,to allow more travel until it is fully compressed.

I assembled the oleo legs and also applied some silicone grease,which made it work very smoothly. I havn`t flown my Hawk yet,because I am finishing off my Turbo Raven and its got to fly by next weekend,as we have got an Air Show on that weekend.

I hope that this information helps you.

Regards
Craig Edmundson
S.A.

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi

I am sure I have read somewhere that the nose gear does not lock out. I have now purchased a spare hose wheel for another project , however this is slightly longer and the wheel is slighty bigger. I can choose either as it matters not for the other project.

So:
Does everyone have lockout problems on the nosewheel and do you cant it forward to clear the nose gear door?

Also has anyone milled off a groove in the casting to enable lockout ?

Gave up on the air rams and did it with servos for the gear doors. I would have thought next years batch might benefit from some focus in this area of gear doors.

Still looking good though.

David

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hello sky warrior

Yes,I had the same problem,but I cured it. Use a small round file and file the groove some more,towards the cylinder end. You must remove the yoke and file it in a vice. As a rough estimate,I must have filed it about 2mm deeper and more to the cylinder side,than the front side. Its quicker to do it,using a file,than using a mill.

Regards
Craig Edmundson
S.A.

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi

Thanks for that I will do the same with more confidence. Did you cant the retract unit forward to clear the doors?

At present it looks mighty close with the bigger wheel unit. i will probably use the smaller wheel unit but will not decide until I get it all together and check the ground incidence.


Thanks again

David

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi sky warrior

I don`t have wheel doors on my Hawk,but I do have them,if I decide to use them someday. My Hawk has got the small nose wheel - it was the one,which came with the kit. First you must file the groove deeper as I explained and then you will see that the wheel will go up further into the fuselage. After doing this,you might be able to use the nose wheel,which you have got. Its very difficult for me to say how much more the wheel will go up,into the fuselage,but when it can lock in the UP position,there will be more clearance between the wheel and the door. This should work for you.

You must remember how the nose wheel retract was assembled. The little brass fitting for the air pipe on the front side of the cylinder,must be in the correct position. In one of the positions,it will touch the retract frame and will cause the unit to jam. I found this to happen on my Hawk.

Regards
Craig Edmundson
S.A

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi

Thanks for those tips I dont like jamming either !

Take a tip with the gear door doors and do them with servos. I ended up with a 3mm clearance between the inner door and the fus. in order to clear the fuselage contour. I extended the hinge with some thin carbon plate and formed a ball ended hinge point. this was connected to the servo arm across the fus. Then all hinges were screwed through the keeper plates. This aint ever going to come loose. I have yet to drive them in unison but they work well singulary. I am sure there are many ways but this did for me. Like the rams nearly did for me in another way.

David

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi David

Thanks for the tip. Aviation Design,sells a very nice door hinge,which has got areas on it,for it to be connected to an air cylinder or a servo. Its a very clever design and I am going to use them on my F9F-2 Panther as well.

I hope that you come right with the nose wheel?

Regards
Craig Edmundson
S.A.

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi Craig,

Done that filing thing. Lots of metal removed. I had two units and they differed slightly in that one was more robust in build and thickness so this is the one I chosw to file. Locks out fine but this is another area that needs some attention on next years models as it simply does not fit the retract unit.

Regards
David

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi Craig,
I have a friend working for a spring maker who will make me stronger springs if I supply some specs.
Do you have the specs. of your new springs or an idea of how much stronger they are to the original springs?

Regards
Ron

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hello RONW

I don`t have the specifications at all. The person who made the springs for me,also works for a Spring Company. Just ask your friend to increase the gap,between the coils,so that it is a little longer than the original spring - about 13 mm longer. The gap between the coils: 4 - 5 mm. Now you must cut this spring shorter,using a Dremel Tool,with a grinding disk attatched to it. You must get the length right,so that you can get the oleo leg assembled,without having to compress the spring very much. Believe me,its not an easy task. You can keep the spring material the same thickness as the old one.

When I have got a little "free time", I`ll have a few more of these springs made up and will send you 2 of them. Then you can have some spare ones made for yourself or anyone who needs them - okay?

Regards
Craig
S.A.

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Thanks Craig that will give me something to work on.
How does yours sit on the ground now with the stiffer springs, it must sit higher on the mains? Do you still have a positive angle of attack on the main wing to aid lift off?
My one sits with the mains about half compressed.

Regards
Ron

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

Hi RONW

I`ll have to check that. Will let you know as soon as I get round to it. Please send me your full address,so that I can send the springs to you.

Regards
Craig
S.A.

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

I ordered my hawk over a week ago. It should be here Monday and I can hardly wait. I am going with the P-120 for ultimate performance.

Buzz

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

How are you guys attaching the aluminum ring on the front of the thrust tube?

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

2nd question, are you guys having to take the nose gear apart and reverse it. The way mine opens seems to be backwards from the photos I have seen. Any help is appreciated

RE: Skymaster Hawk Once Again (at least!)
 

I attached my tailpipe cone with three 2mm screws and lock nuts. I have seen others pop rivet them as well as use self tapping screws. I also had one customer who used high temperature silicon sealant.
As for the nose wheel retract. I know that the ones that I sell in the Uk do require the retract unit to be reversed.
Hope this helps
Regards Al