RE: AeroLoft Dry Transfer Problem
 

There's your problem....you coated with clear. The solid inks used for wet transfers do not need a clearcote before applying. That is only those "cheap" inkjet types.....
If you apply clearcote before the decal is applied it will become brittle and tear easily.

The correct technique is easy: Dip the waterslide decal into warm water real short (3-5 seconds). Place it someplace where excess water can run off (i usually place it on the edge of a dinner plate). While waiting for the decal to löoosen on the blue carrier paper, just coat the entire area where the decal is to be placed with Mr.Mark setter liquid. Then place the decal with carier paper over the wet area, and let it touch on one corner. slightly push the decal off the carrier paper on the edge touching the wet model.
Hold down the decal there, and carefully pull out the blue carrier paper so that the decal comes to float on the setter liquid. Then push it around until it is placed to your likings. Using a soft towel, push it down in the center, and begin pushing out the excess setter fluid from that point outward. When the entire decal has been pushed down, let it rest for 2-3 hours. Voila, a nearly invisible, large area decal. Largest i've done was an entire US letter sheet, came off and went on wrinkle and rip free.

Best of luck on your next (unpainted) waterslides :-)
Regards
Hank

RE: AeroLoft Dry Transfer Problem
 

I was going to, but called for a doctor instead to relieve my puker factor syndrome. I'm feeling much better now thanks:)

RE: AeroLoft Dry Transfer Problem
 

Man Gordon, you got it in bad for Aeroloft, sorry about that! Lifes to short , let it go.


Seriously if I had been shafted as you say you were I would be fuming too, Your experience was a bad one and I am not questioning what happened to you. My experience was different thats all.


Sorry about the hard feelings.

Mark

RE: AeroLoft Dry Transfer Problem
 

No probs Mark - I understand that some people have had good experiences with Aeroloft, and am simply pointing out that I (and quite a few others too based on replies on this thread plus discussions I've had at the club field etc) have had completely opposite experiences.

I'm no longer fuming BTW - I got over that pretty quickly - but as for letting it go .... sorry, but I believe that other people have a right to know how bad Aeroloft can be, so that they can hopefully weigh the multiple good reports vs the multiple bad ones and make informed decisions about whether to risk dealing with such a company.

Gordon

RE: AeroLoft Dry Transfer Problem
 

Perhaps the best thing to occur would be for those of you that have had good experiences could somehow convey to Cindy the bad feelings and loss of business her attitude and "curt responses" are causing her in the RC community. Then again you might find that she truly doesn't care.

As I said I had no problem with the product and save for having to deal with Cindy, would recommend the product highly!

David S.

RE: AeroLoft Dry Transfer Problem
 

Actually, the best decals I have ever seen are a new reverse printed water transfer type. You don't slide them off the backing, you put them on face down and put a sponge on the backing paper, then peel the backing paper off. Kamdax uses them, and I just got the EnjoyModel P-38 that uses the same. Don't know why it is not used more.

RE: AeroLoft Dry Transfer Problem
 

Easytiger I'd like to know more about those decals..and by the way nice email chatting lately with you..I do want those decals! So now that I'm setting up a digital print shop, I wonder if Aero's problem isn't the same as other home business's where you have two jobs or more and Aero is their side job. That would make sense why things could get screwed up..I don't know..just a thought!

RE: AeroLoft Dry Transfer Problem
 

They come with paper backing that is on the TOP of the decals, and a peelable plastic backing on the BOTTOM of the decals.
So, you cut them out, then peel off the plastic backing, place the decal down on the surface, with the paper backing up, then soak it for a minute with a wet sponge. Then you can peel away the paper backing. No sliding of anything needed. And the decals are super thin and fall into every nook and cranny. I don't know if I have any extras I can send you of those.
The other decals, I will send you a ton, but only if you are serious! I don't want the stuff to sit there and have nobody DO anything with it, that's my fear.

I have no real comment on Aeroloft, except I called some years ago to buy an F-89 kit, and I remember being really turned off by the person on the phone, acting like they were doing me some really big favor by taking my money, so I did not take it. I don't think I have ever used the actual product, though.

I have always felt water transfer was better. Especially high quality water transfer. And there are big differences between the cheap thick decals and the really good ones. The really good ones lie down like paint over rivets and panel lines. Also, you need Microsol sometimes.

RE: AeroLoft Dry Transfer Problem
 

yep that is nice especially for application..give a call if or when you get a chance , cause emaing sucks! Thanks Kevin

RE: AeroLoft Dry Transfer Problem
 

Thanks for sharing, Hank! You're correct, they were the home-made kind I made on my PC inkjet, to replace the wrong size ones from Aeroloft. I do like the reverse printed kind EasyT mentioned. Then the chances of a portion sticking while parts still need moving can be avoided. Other than what comes with a kit, where can one obtain the reverse printed kind?

Phil