Bringing back my HPI Savage 25 after ~10 years. A few questions
03-17-2016, 05:52 PM
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Bringing back my HPI Savage 25 after ~10 years. A few questions
I've been looking for a hobby besides weightlifting and video games, something to get me outside. I was daydreaming at work and started to really get the itch to play around with my Savage 25 again.
From what I remember, there are a few things I need to fix, but don't really know where to start. I need a few basic parts (non-electric, which I will find out when my parents bring it down to me next week).
What are the best places to buy parts? Do they still sell Savage 25 parts?
I'm planning on taking apart, cleaning and reassembling it to learn more and to make sure I don't miss any broken parts. What do you guys recommend for cleaning grease off it as well?
Thanks in advance!
From what I remember, there are a few things I need to fix, but don't really know where to start. I need a few basic parts (non-electric, which I will find out when my parents bring it down to me next week).
What are the best places to buy parts? Do they still sell Savage 25 parts?
I'm planning on taking apart, cleaning and reassembling it to learn more and to make sure I don't miss any broken parts. What do you guys recommend for cleaning grease off it as well?
Thanks in advance!
03-19-2016, 12:27 PM
#3
Yes you can still buy parts. I'm not a savage expert but I do know that some changes where made when they went to the more modern Savage X and XL. Some of these parts may fit while some may not.
As as for working on the truck. If you don't have the instructions and exploded views download them from HPI. For cleaning I use degreaser, the purple stuff from Home Depot. I'd dilute it, with at least equal parts water of not 3 parts water one part degreaser. Plastic parts just dump them in and let me soak for 30min. Anodized and bare aluminum parts spray and scrub with a plastic bristle brush u tip clean and rinse off. The degreaser will take off anodizing if it's too strong and/or left on the parts too long. For bearings get a can of brake cleaner and spray between the shield and the inner race. Then put then on a pair of needle nose pliers while closed to hold the inner race still and rotate the outer race. If they're gritty keep spraying until they spin smooth. Blow them out with compressed air if you have it and/or let them dry for an hour or so on paper towels and then apply oil to them the same way you cleaned them.
For the engine, hopefully you applied after run oil to it in which case you won't need to do much of anything. Just replace the flow plug and go. If you left fuel in it or the fuel tank you'll need some fresh nitro fuel or for the really stubborn stuff some acetone. You don't necessarily have to disassemble the engine. Just remove the glow plug and the carb, rotate the crank so the inlet port is line up with the carb opening, pour some nitro or acetone into a container and drop the engine in. After it soaks for awhile take the engine out, and rotate it, pour the acetone out it. If it rotates freely and the acetone that comes out of the engine isn't discolored you're done, if not repeat until it rotates freely and the acetone isn't discolored. Take the low and high speed needles out of the carb (leave the idle screw) and drop the carb body in the nitro or acetone. If the carb needles don't have anything built up on them don't drop them in and definitely don't try polishing them or anything, you'll just screw them up. Once the carb slide moves freely and whatever drips out of the carb isnt discolored it's good to go as well. If you can't get new orings for the needles and carb base, use some grease on the carb needle orings and grey rtv silicone on the carb base oring to seal everything up.
As as for working on the truck. If you don't have the instructions and exploded views download them from HPI. For cleaning I use degreaser, the purple stuff from Home Depot. I'd dilute it, with at least equal parts water of not 3 parts water one part degreaser. Plastic parts just dump them in and let me soak for 30min. Anodized and bare aluminum parts spray and scrub with a plastic bristle brush u tip clean and rinse off. The degreaser will take off anodizing if it's too strong and/or left on the parts too long. For bearings get a can of brake cleaner and spray between the shield and the inner race. Then put then on a pair of needle nose pliers while closed to hold the inner race still and rotate the outer race. If they're gritty keep spraying until they spin smooth. Blow them out with compressed air if you have it and/or let them dry for an hour or so on paper towels and then apply oil to them the same way you cleaned them.
For the engine, hopefully you applied after run oil to it in which case you won't need to do much of anything. Just replace the flow plug and go. If you left fuel in it or the fuel tank you'll need some fresh nitro fuel or for the really stubborn stuff some acetone. You don't necessarily have to disassemble the engine. Just remove the glow plug and the carb, rotate the crank so the inlet port is line up with the carb opening, pour some nitro or acetone into a container and drop the engine in. After it soaks for awhile take the engine out, and rotate it, pour the acetone out it. If it rotates freely and the acetone that comes out of the engine isn't discolored you're done, if not repeat until it rotates freely and the acetone isn't discolored. Take the low and high speed needles out of the carb (leave the idle screw) and drop the carb body in the nitro or acetone. If the carb needles don't have anything built up on them don't drop them in and definitely don't try polishing them or anything, you'll just screw them up. Once the carb slide moves freely and whatever drips out of the carb isnt discolored it's good to go as well. If you can't get new orings for the needles and carb base, use some grease on the carb needle orings and grey rtv silicone on the carb base oring to seal everything up.
