Naim.F.C

Ok so this is my first Nitro..
Im just at the stage of breaking in the engine..

AND OMG...why so loud and so fast?

I checked the carbeaurator and its at quarter way...but still its so fast!!
If I adjust it any more to a slower rate...the engine cuts out.

It says something about adjusting the throttle servo? (till its aat a steady slow speed) whats that?
Im sure my wheels should be turning at a slow speed and not this ridiculous speed. Ive turned it off for the moment.

Please help!!

tamiya08

My Feedback: (10)

do you need to know how to break in the engine?

Naim.F.C

YES!! I swear its the LOUDEST thing I've ever heard...and im sure it wasnt suppsed to run that fast straight away. P.S Its a Savage .25 RTR

Naim.F.C

Pleaaseeee help! All these hits and no replies!

tamiya08

My Feedback: (10)

not to worry, the bigger the engine the louder it gets, yes when i broke in my buggy with a .26 i lost my hearing in my right ear. wear ear protection.

ok you have the savage .25 manual right? in the back are instructions to how to tune and break-in the motor. ill also see if i can find some sort of link, cuz i dunno what your soppose to exactly tune during each tank for the .25

tamiya08

My Feedback: (10)

nvm mind about the manual i checked in an online manual and cant find it, but i found this

break-in
steps 1-4 http://hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/s-25manual/E3.jpg
steps 4-8 http://hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/s-25manual/E4.jpg

tuning: http://hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/s-25manual/E5.jpg
needle settings: http://hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/s-25manual/E6.jpg

Naim.F.C

Ok...so basically I went and set all the needle settings back to default...

But I noticed something...
In the video it says when putting the low speed needle back to factory...
you have to push the throttle into the engine while turning the needle clockwise...
and then turn anti clockwise 3 whole turnes...again..while pushing the throttle servo forward to get it back to factory default.
Only problem is...after I did that...

where as before moving the throttle server would move the carburetor, (under the filter, you can see it sliding...i.e a quater...2/3 quaters and full way open each time you move the throttle server)
After I set the low needle settings back to factory default...
My Throttle server no longer moves the carburetor when moved.

Is it suppsed to be like this?
Please help!!

fastcrash

you may have turned the idle set screw in to far, not alowing the carb to close. and you said your engine stalls, this is normal for breakin, are you leaving the glow starter on until the engine warms up?

Naim.F.C

Nope I havnet touched the idle screw...

One thing I did notice...
It says the default low speed needle setting is 3 turns from fully closed (Im assuming closed means so that the needle won't turn any further?)....But to get it to closed I have to turn it way more then 3 turns...
So Now Im just dead confused.

All I know is...when i set the low needle setting to default...
My Throttle servo no longer moves the carburertor...
And the little silver mettle slider (which is factory set at 2mm open (a quarter of the way) no longer moves...
Anyone have any ideas?

Should I just turn the low speed needle more until the throttle servo can start to move the carberator?

Naim.F.C

Also....how do i get it so that the trucks wheels arent moving straight away when I start the thing up?

Tyler24

the needle 3 turns from closed? i think that means close it all the way and then open it 3 turns...

I'm not sure cause i'm only getting my first R/C in the next week or so.. or i may have to wait for christmas.. but thats what it sounds like its saying

Naim.F.C

Ok...So Ive sorted it....

for future referance...
To all those in need of help...with a HPI veichle of ANY sort?
Jusmp straight to the HPI website forum...

There like gods of advice over there.

Basically the prblem is...

The lower needle to a full close will turn in 8-9 times...
But apparently thats not what HPI means by closed...

They mean...turn it clockwise in until you see the carberator move even a smidgen! As soon as it moves...it means you've reached the closing point and its from THAT point you start moving anti clockwise 3 times. God HPI should be more clear!

Anyway heres the helpful link to anyone ever requiring a needle reset.

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/sho...threadid=68210

I'm gonna have to break the thing in 2moro...
But I swear....it scared me half to death! It was SO loud and moved WAY too quick...much faster then shown on the video..
I lowered my idle speeds a little, so that should help.
It was growling so damn much that it almost shot itself off the damn brick! (wich by the way is 16" by 4" and weighs LOADS!
This thing obviously has ALOT more power then I imagined...
Then again I've only ever used a 1/10th electric Nikko before (it was pretty ood you know [&o] )

My neighbours are SO gonna hate me after this! LOL [>:]

Ybenjulkay2x

I don't have that kind of problem with my dauther's savage rtr s-25 like that problem you mention. first you need to lower (turn toward left) the idle speed of the carb, if you have you engine instruction, is in page E-1, it show there where are the things to adjust. turn this screw going left, like loosening a screw. Adjust this screw so that the engine will idle low to keep the engine running w/o engaging the clutch. About the speed, you need to turn the high speed to rich setting for break in (page E-5), turn this screw until the truck run slow, and keep the igniter in the glow plug. I break in my engine at least a gallon, after that, you may turn the high speed neddle 1/8 at a time until you got the right speed, it will go at least 40 mph. About the low speed neddle don't touch this for now while breaking in the engine. You can adjust this later but just a little to give you good punch.
Also one important, don't force the engine while starting using the roto start, if engine flood, stop, removed the glow plug out then used the rotostart to removed excess gas, then re-installed the plug but not tight then start the engine, when engine run, rev engine a few second then tighten the plug. This way you don't break the rotostart nor the one way bearing inside your engine backplate

devious1

My Feedback: (15)

wait till you drive it if your only familier with a nikko its a pain when you first mve to nitro it will only take about a quarter throttle to do what your nikko did i had to adjust the settings on my radio to stop the wheels while idling still kinda new but you should have a setting on your radio to adjust it a lil bit also...

Tyler24

heh i just got my Savage SS kit today.. going to be wicked fun building it... but the guy at the hobby shop said thats it problably not a good idea to break in the engine in the cold weather

LST-UK

Naim it makes sense what your saying, the LSN on the HPI .25 does not have resistence at fully closed. So as you was winding in the LSN and going to far when you backed of 3 turns you was still too lean. Thus the motor was reving far too high as soon as it starts regardless of your idle position.....is this correct?

How did you get on now?

fastcrash

double check your throttle linkage, cause there is no reason i can think of that would cause the servo to not be able to move your carb, by adjusting the lsn. make sure you didnt accidentaly reverse your throttle servo.
dont be afraid to remove the servo horn from the servo, and try to move the carb with the linkage in your hand. try to find something binding up.
if you have a digital camera, take a good pic or 2 of your truck, so i can have a look.
i will do whatever i can to help you get this figured out.
also if i remember correctly , the instructions for the savage,ask you to run the first tank of gas with the wheels off the ground, so the wheels will spin. thats not a problem, just make sure your engine isnt realy over reving.
i have a lot of experience with the savage, so dont be afraid to pm me.

Naim.F.C

Ok guys after re-setting all the needles and so forth.
NOW the truck doesnt start at all!

Im lost...i don't know whats up with it.
I stick in the roto start and it just wont start up...and its not the egine flooded...nor my glow plug...

Any idea what it could be?

I don't really want to mess about with the needle settings too much. unless you guys think thats what it could be.
But like I said...the engine doesnt start up at all anymore.