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Seen The Warhead

Old 12-04-2005, 09:24 PM
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devious1
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Default Seen The Warhead

Seen it today in my lhs in Green Bay it didnt look al that appealing they had it out of the box to where you could look at it the tires are stiff and i mean stiffer than anything i have looked at recently and they also had an x factor, revo, tnx, savage, along with a tmaxx.
sitting by it it looked rather distinguished chassie wise and the way it is put together but it dint have any appeal to it on the first look.
but that may be me as well. but i am in the market for a new M.T. considering i sold my Raptor..

ill be definatly looking for a review of it
Old 12-09-2005, 08:47 PM
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Wide Open
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

i just finished breaking in my warhead and this thing RIPS!!! the engine has a ton of power off the line and it runs reliably. it also gets long run times with the large fuel tank. i will agree, though, that it doesnt have too much WOW factor in todays industry. its not unlike the chassis design of the savage but they really did their homwork on beefing it up. you get cvd's, reversable tranny, and aluminum shocks to name a few. plus for around $400 dollars its hard to beat!
Old 12-09-2005, 08:59 PM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

wide open what temps are you running?

btw do you have IM - I cant get my warhead to cooooperate AT ALL!!!
Old 12-09-2005, 09:51 PM
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Wide Open
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

sorry, no IM account. i did notice the temps were a little high, though. i tuned it to where i thought it should be first and it was running perfectly, but when i took its temp, it registered 300. so i richened it a bit and now it registers around 260 after a running a few full throttle passes. it still seems a little warm and i couldnt find any air leaks at all, so im just going to wait and see what happens. it may be that it needs about a gallon through it before it starts to cool a little, i dont know, just going to have to see.
Old 12-19-2005, 12:38 AM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

at least from what i have been seeing and reading its been all goood for the warhead
Old 12-19-2005, 02:10 AM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

i bet ya that x factor stood out, they always tend to do that
Old 12-19-2005, 02:22 AM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

Here is the company site on the warhead.
www.warheadmt.com

I am also thinking about getting one but if you guys suggest something better tell me what you think?
Old 12-19-2005, 08:25 PM
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spacoli
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

Wide Open, I'm new, and just purchased the Warhead for my son for Xmas. I wasn't plan on running it till spring once the warmer weather comes. It's my understanding that you should not break in a motor in the colder weather. Is there any exceptions to that rule or guidelines that I should follow?

I'm just looking on some break in tips and procedures that you might have or experianced with the Warhead.

I have read the manual and I know it says to run five tanks of fuel during the break in. Since the Warhead has such a large tank, can that be reduced at all to something like five 3/4 tanks of fuel or something like that.

Any info you or anyone else can give me would be helpful.

ORIGINAL: Wide Open

i just finished breaking in my warhead and this thing RIPS!!! the engine has a ton of power off the line and it runs reliably. it also gets long run times with the large fuel tank. i will agree, though, that it doesnt have too much WOW factor in todays industry. its not unlike the chassis design of the savage but they really did their homwork on beefing it up. you get cvd's, reversable tranny, and aluminum shocks to name a few. plus for around $400 dollars its hard to beat!
Old 12-19-2005, 10:27 PM
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elite
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

You can definitely break in a motor in the winter - you may have to wrap the head with a sock or foil to get it to 200ish. I wouldn't recommend doing it though if its 20s, but 30s outside is fine IMO.
Old 12-20-2005, 10:27 PM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

ya man break it in! you can wrap aluminum foil around the head to get the temp up. really all you need to do is heat cycle the engine as many times as ya can before givin it hell! by that i mean tune the truck so its as rich as it can be and still run. then get it over 200 and let it cool. repeat at least 10 times and you broken in! then start leaning it out untill it makes good power with out getting over 270ish preferably.
ohh make sure the piston is at bottom dead center while cooling (not up in the pinch)
Old 12-22-2005, 05:08 PM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

I prefer heat-cycling vs the "run as rich as you can" method. Just run the truck around easily at a normal tune until it hits 220-230, then the second it hits that temp shut her down and let it cool at BDC until completely cool. Repeat until you have a total running time of like.. hmm actually i cant remember how long you do it for.. its been awhile since i've had to break-in an engine. Someone will be able to answer.
Old 12-22-2005, 05:59 PM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

The heat cycle sound pretty easy? I planed on getting a temp. gauge before I run the truck, I want it to last a long as possible.

How can I tell if the piston is at BDC?

I guess I can just rotate the fly wheel until I feel compression at TDC and rotate it 180 degrees.
Old 12-22-2005, 07:37 PM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

im new myself to the rc world and was looking at getting the warhead. im gonna take my time because theres a big rc show in feburary called the RAM show. i was hopping to get a better deal there that in say tower hobbies. does anyone know of a better webcite or mag to get it from. is it any better than the revo! my friend has the revo and the thing screams. overall though the warhead looks awsome and more versatile verses the revo. he put a lot of money into it for extrax to lower the suspension where as the warhead looks like it can be done without any extras. Whats your huys opinions.
Old 12-23-2005, 04:27 AM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

quoted form another thread in 2004.

Idling an engine, letting it run slow, 1/4, 1/2 throttle is all incorrect. You want WOT after it warms up. YES WOT, even when it is brand new. This is in order to bring it up to the temp and fit the sleeve was designed to run at. Anything less and you are just leading your engine to an early death.

Yes, running at WOT slightly rich, but not 4 stroking rich is the proper way to do it. This explains the proper way and WHY it is the proper way. Here is some further explanation I wrote a while ago for newbie nitro guys that were still doing that incorrect idling method:

As for break-in, there is a whole lot of misunderstanding about this and basic engine operation. I have read and studied a lot of information on this and also by Dave Gierke who writes in RCCA and Model Airplane News (also by AirAge) about RC airplane and buggy engines and he's an expert. As well as Paris Racing, Stephen Bess, Clarance Lee, etc, in the research I have done over the last few years. It will take some time to convince yourself to bring a new engine to WOT but when you start to understand it and why it is correct, you will realize just how many people are completely breaking the engine totally incorrectly.


It’s important to learn the theory about how these engines run (2 stroke ABC, ABN, AAC), and how to break-in, especially because I see WAY TOO MANY people using the wrong procedure of idling many tanks of fuel through the engine. That is unnecessary and damaging which I will explain. Although we use the term “break-in”, by its word alone it is misleading because people wrongly assume it means to slowly and gradually bring an engine to tune by idling tanks of fuel but you will see why this is incorrect and unnecessarily wastes fuel too! Please be patient and read further to understand.

These engines use a sleeve around the piston to make the seal (piston doesn't have a ring) and it operates properly only with sufficient heat so that the sleeve can expand to its designed operating size and fit. All engines will be tight, especially when new, so on the initial runs, you want to have it get up to temp, so it can run how it is was designed to. By idling tanks and tanks through, overly rich and cool, the sleeve just wears MORE against the piston because it is not hot enough to expand to its operating size. And by doing that you are prematurely wearing out and ruining your engine. The piston/sleeve is designed to operate at running temps. Not doing this by running cool and rich on the bench leads to premature wear. By idling away tanks of fuel I GUARANTEE you are doing more harm than good. As long as the engine is warmed up first, you don’t have to drag out bringing it up to temp when it is brand new. It wont hurt or damage the working parts. These engines are very simple 2 stroke machines. They do not have extensive moving parts such as valves, cams, lifters, springs, etc. (like 4 strokers) so all this extra gentle, rich, cool operation is completely unnecessary (and worse it’s harmful). HOWEVER, the sleeve around the piston can be a delicate thing to maintain and it is not forgiving of improper treatment. And improper treatment of a piston and sleeve is running it at a temp it is not designed for. (either too cold or too hot, both are just as detrimental) Most often this is done by running it too rich which makes it too cold because the rich mixture doesn't generate enough combustion heat for proper sleeve expansion. Just as damaging can be an excessively lean run. If it is run overly lean for any length of time it will destroy the sleeve. (that is why fuels with castor oil as part of the lube mix are very good because they tolerate the too high heat of a very lean run and will help to save the sleeve if it is not run too lean for too long. but avoiding a lean run is essential when you know enough enough about engine tuning to avoid it)

Running a 2 stroke engine slow and rich makes it '4 stroke' which means it fires every other revolution, and that generates even less heat. It causes damage and wastes fuel as well! Using a fan is absolutely not necessary on it. Most important is to 'heat cycle' the engine at least 10 times to relieve the parts of manufacturing stresses. HEAT CYCLING REALLY IS WHAT BREAK IN IS ALL ABOUT. (I even think break-in should be called “Initial Heat Cycling” instead so that people understand what and why they are doing it.)

You run the engine in the car for 2 - 3 minutes at full throttle (yes, WOT, don’t baby it), ideally on a smooth paved level surface, after briefly warming up of course, and then shut down and repeat after the engine has fully cooled. Let it cool down completely. Heat cycling is the name of the game. You want it to come up to temp for a brief time, and cool down and repeat. After shutting down, adjust the flywheel so that the piston is at BDC (bottom dead center) so that it does not get stuck in the contracting/cooling sleeve, as can often happen. (If the piston should accidentally get stuck in the sleeve, preheat the cylinder to free the piston from the sleeve.)

During these initial runs YOU WANT the temps to be at least 200 F but not above 230-250 F. After break-in, running temps above 230F is fine. (in fact nitro engines perform best when run 250-300. below those temps they are less efficient and less powerful. However, going by the mixture is more important than trying to measure temp with heat guns, etc. which you may wind up doing inconsistently. The mixture setting on the High Speed Needle is critical in the first runs. It should be a rich and not lean setting. However it should not be so rich that it 4 strokes.

Also, to start a brand new engine it is very worthwhile to preheat the engine with a heat gun or hair dryer if it has a very tight piston/sleeve fit and you are having trouble turning it over to start it up. This will expand the sleeve some, and when you turn it over the piston will not excessively rub, or even get stuck in the sleeve (as sometimes can happen). Preheating really works well. You do want to run it on the rich side, but you want it to come up to temp also, just not more than 2-3 minutes in beginning runs, in order to keeps temps around 230F. Listen carefully to the exhaust noise or ‘note’, as you do not want it to be ‘4 stroking’. If it is, it needs to be leaned slowly until it runs 2 stroke. You can tell it is 4 stroking if it is very “boggy” and “hesitant” in acceleration and running. If it is making that “burbling” sound then it is 4 stroking which means it is running too rich and therefore too cold.

Everyone thinks they have to run it super cool and check to be sure temps are low. That's not what it is about. The reverse is true! Cool operation is damaging operation. Little, if any, break-in will occur unless it is heat cycled properly.

The manufactures can’t make a piston/sleeve turn over smoothly at room temp, because when the engine runs the sleeve will expand and there will be no seal at operating temp. See how that makes sense?!

So preheat it if necessary and don't run it cool, and heat cycle it, and you'll be good to go! After you have done this several times then you can gradually lean out the HSN to get best performance, but it should then be richened up just rich of peak to ensure it lasts long too. Running it at max peak rpm will lead to the shortest useful life of the piston and sleeve. If racing that is fine but if you are just playing you may want to run just a little richer than that peak setting. After the HSN is set then it is time to set the low and/or mid range needles and idling setting.

I see a lot of people idle the engine for a tank and then they let it cool off thinking that they are "heat cycling" it. However, because they are not running it up to WOT it is not generating enough heat to be of any use to a breakin/heat cycle. So, inadvertently by idling they are just letting the engine sleeve and piston wear away from the cold tight fit that they are allowing to happen when idling away on the bench. Research has shown that basically no breakin effect takes place AT ALL unless the engine is allowed to come up to operating temp for 2 minutes. So if you are idling away and then let it cool there is zero breakin/heat cycle benefit. But if you want to wear away the sleeve and piston fit then idling will definitely do it for you.

I hope this is helpful!!
Old 12-23-2005, 11:40 AM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

I have been doing just the opposite of what that article is saying, and my engines runs awesome.
Old 12-23-2005, 04:24 PM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

You don't have to do it that way, and you won't really notice a difference between the two performance-wise... its the longevity that will be different. The heat cycling method will almost always make the engine last longer than the traditional method, all else equal.

Also, while im sure your engine runs awesome, you have nothing to compare it to. I always thought my engines ran great (and they did), but when I started doing the heat-cycling method I noticed an overall increase in throttle response. Its nothing huge, I just prefer to do whatever gives me the mose out of my engine.. even if it is slight.
Old 12-23-2005, 04:46 PM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

Here's a link to the heat-cycling method by the pros:

[link=http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php]CLICK.[/link]

It basically says the same as above, but here you can see the company endorsing this method.
Old 12-23-2005, 04:59 PM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

Im not sure if it's such a good idea to not follow the instructions when breaking in, maybe voids warranty if the motor isn't broken in as per the instructions? I've seen so many different methods at breaking motors in it's totally scared me off doing any method of break in except what's in the manual. Every tom, dick and harry has their own version of breaking in a motor it seems, they can't all be right now can they?

Old 12-27-2005, 12:29 AM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

So on the Warhead, how hard is it to switch from "Race" to "Rumble" modes?? I ordered mine and I am waiting to get it. This will be the first truck I have bought, I have been into planes for a year now, so I am a lil nervous about it. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Old 12-27-2005, 09:51 AM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

chicken

itll take you all of 5 minutes go to from stock rumble to race mode. youll move the lower shock locations by philips screws, thats it. Youll move from the inner most holes to the outer ones of your choice. Then at the top of the shock youll take off the nut, pull the pin that holds both shocks, and move that to a location of your choice, its really basic. If you can replace batteries in a transmitter you can change the settings on the Warhead
Old 01-08-2006, 05:26 PM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

Seen it today, I 'll leave it at that
Old 01-08-2006, 05:28 PM
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Default RE: Seen The Warhead

Seen it today, I 'll leave it at that

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