psychorevo

I my Revo at 300-310 degress for four minutes and hung with my friends new $300 Sirio motor.

I shed tears of joy with my 2.5R(darn that new 3.3).

Now question: I'm using the heavy duty Traxxas glow plug. If I swith to a hot glow plug like a McCoy's, will I yield better top end and red-line which will transfer to more hp to the road?

What are the benefits of a hot or cold glow plug?

Input/Opinions?

SublimeJason

SURFACE
Type Stock No Description
P8 OSMG2698 Cold enough to outlast the hottest "heats". For Turbo head engines.
R5 OSMG2694 A racing plug so durable it can survive leaner needle settings and high-nitro/high-rpm 1/8 scale racing.
A5 OSMG2693 Slightly "cooler" than the #8 and ideal for the constant "on/off" throttle action in 1/10 and 1/8 scale racing.
P-7 OSMG2695 An all-season, medium-heat plug for Turbo head engines.
#8 OSMG2691 A medium-hot plug for 1/8 scale racing and most .12-21 car, boat and truck engines.
P-6 OSMG2696 A hot choice for all .12-.21 Turbo head engines.
LC3 OSMG2700 A long-reach hot plug created for the Traxxas TRX 2.5 (.15) Racing Engine and other 1/10 scale off-road engines.
A3 OSMG2690 A hot plug with the longest life and lowest cost of any O.S. sport plug. Great for beginners and .12-.15 engine break-in.
P3 OSMG2699 An ultra-hot plug for the 18TZ and other Turbo head engines.
AIR
Type Stock No Description
RE OSMG2688 Created specifically for the .30 Rotary P-49 – R/C's only Wankel engine!
F OSMG2692 The plug for all multi-cylinder and 4-stroke engines. Long reach – long life.
A5 OSMG2693 A medium-cold plug ideal for engines .60 and larger.
#8 OSMG2691 A medium-hot plug suitable for most 2-stroke flight engines. A flier favorite!
A3 OSMG2690 A long-lasting hot plug for most 2-strokes up to .60.



GLOW PLUG
A glow plug’s temperature range is critical to proper performance. Small-block engines generally use warm to hot glow plugs, while big-block engines use plugs in the colder range. If you choose a plug in the wrong temperature range, you could be chasing the tune of your engine till the sun goes down. Changes of the relative temperature of the glow plug can be beneficial, however.

A combination of compression, heat and a catalytic reaction between the platinum in the glow-plug coil and the methanol in the fuel creates combustion in a nitro engine. Altering the heat range of your glow plug can alter the timing of the combustion process. Nitro engines don’t have an ignition system that can be used to advance or retard combustion timing, but a hotter plug that causes ignition a little earlier in the combustion process can have the same effect. “Advancing” the ignition timing can increase overall power output, especially at higher rpm. There are limits, however, and installing too hot a plug causes pre-ignition (detonation) and risks damaging your engine.

It’s a challenge to figure out a glow plug’s temperature range. Manufacturers don’t use a consistent and universal standard to rate the temperature ranges of their glow plugs. You will probably know the temperature of a plug relative to others within a given product line, but currently, no rating system allows comparisons among manufacturers. Here again, plain old experience with a variety of glow plugs will help you to know which are best for the effect you want.

“Reading” the glow plug is a tuning technique advanced by Ron Paris. It suggests that looking at the glow plug tells you something about how your engine is running. The element in a glow plug will turn gray in an engine that is close to the optimum fuel mixture. This method requires a new glow plug, as the element will eventually turn gray regardless of the needle settings; the length of time it takes to turn gray is the issue. Plugs that turn gray in just a tank or two of fuel (running at race pace, not diddling around) indicate a fuel mixture close to ideal—but also close to trouble. If the plug stays wet and shiny for a few tanks of fuel, you’re in the safe zone; a little rich but safe. When the plug wire gets distorted or broken, however, you’re in real trouble. It’s a sure sign that the mixture is way too lean, or that there is too much compression and the engine is detonating.

psychorevo

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Thanks!!!

More information that I expected. Forget it, I'll stick to my glow plug.