erawtik

My Feedback: (1)

Well I am in my 6th tank and it was runnin hot thourgh break in and still is so i been trying to get the temp down with no luck. So i checked the lsn to see where it was set and it turned in around 11.5 turns so i backed it off to 12.5. Tried running truck and it ran crappy so messed with hsn still crappy. Then i started just turning both a bit till it ran pretty decent and now with trim all the way up if i hit brakes it dies. Tried it back to factory and same thing any ideas? And is the throttle suppose to rotate cause mine does when i adjust the lsn?

freerider6_9

are you sure your turning the low speed neadle and not the idle adjustment?

erawtik

My Feedback: (1)

yes the one on the side of the slide where u go right next to the exhaust.

DadtoaMarine

Your engine dies because when you hit the brakes it is closing the slide on the carb. This means, as I am sure you can tell, that your carb is not set right. Let's get your engine to idle first, I know you didn't say anything about the idle but trust me it's not right, then we'll work on the rest.

Pull the air cleaner off and look down the throat. The slide on the carb should be opened about 1 to 1.5mm ONLY. Anything more then this and your asking for flooding problems. Turn your throttle trim all the way down and then set the idle screw (that is the screw that is a ***** to get to and located right next to the head) so that you have that 1-1.5mm opening. Use an 1.5mm allen wrench as a gauge. If you can fit the wrench into the opening close it just little bit.

Now set your LSN to 12.5 and your HSN to 4 turns out. Your engine should start and be running just on the rich side. If the engine won't start turn the trim up a little at a time till you can get it running. Now as you adjust the carb use the idle screw to adjust the engine speed and not the throttle trim. Throttle trim should only be used to start/warm the engine and then backed off once it is up to operating temps.

Once you have your carb set so that it will idle on the idle screw without using throttle trim your dying while breaking issue should be gone.

Brad G

Your idle set screw has popped out of the carb slide. This is not an uncommon problem in the Warhead, I had this numerous times. If the idle set screw is in the groove correctly, is should NOT rotate. You will have to play with the idle screw to get it back in the slot, and it's easier to do this I believe if you pull the carb out of the engine.

When you are doing this, take a look at the throttle set screw also (look at it with it fully removed from the carb). Make sure the end of the screw isn't ground up or worn down too bad, jagged edges sticking out etc... The material they used to make those idle screws is not very good stock imo.

This was discussed in the huge "Do you own a Warhead" thread. If I remember correctly, reason that all this happened is that when you take it to max throttle on your transmitter, it actually causes the carb slide to go too far out, which in turn makes the idle set screw pop out of the groove in the slide. Easy fix for this was to put a zip strap on your throttle trigger on the transmitter, or glue an eraser head to the transmitter behind the trigger, which will prevent you from pulling the trigger back 100%. It won't effect your truck performance since that last little bit of trigger movement doesn't do jack for the trucks power.

Good luck!

Brad G

Oh, also. This problem I talk about above can also cause your idle settings to be screwed up. So, before you go through the steps that DadtoaMarine detailed, fix the rotating issue.

erawtik

My Feedback: (1)

i have fixed the idle screw and it still wont run imo this motor is a pos. Iv had nothing but problems with it since tank 2 and i feel the pull cord is going to break which is only gonna piss me off more. $400 truck that wont even run i called tech and they didnt help me at all im about to call them back and demand a new motor.

DadtoaMarine

Era don't get upset but no engine is going to run right if you don't have it set right and from what you told us on here your carb is not set right.

If you read through the Anyone Own a Warhead thread you'll find out that engine is the last thing, other then the carb, that usually goes wrong with one of these. There is only a couple of reasons why an engine will die when you hit the breaks. The first is because the carb slide is closing when you hit the breaks. The only way it can do this is if you do not have the idle screw set the way I described in the above thread.

The other reason is that you have the LSN set either to rich or to lean. This is why I said to return it to the factory 12.5 turns (Be sure to follow the directions and hold the throttle open while turning the LSN in untill it lightly bottoms out then back it out 12.5 truns.). Once you have done this then go back through the setup procedures and don't be afraid to try richening the mixture instead of leaning it out to see if that helps.

Also remember that outside temperature, especially with new engines, has a big effect on how an engine performs. The general rule of thumb is the warmer and more humdi it is the leaner your carb should be. The cooler and less humid the richer and even a 10* change can affect the engine.

erawtik

My Feedback: (1)

everything is at factory settings and it wont even start it just fills the carb and cylinder up with gas. There is something really wrong and then the pull start broke. Tech did tell me to take off the reserve tank so if its any concern the reserve is not on.

Oh ya on like tank 3 i put it up for the night and came out next morning the spur was melted so i think this motor is fried.

msinno

erawtik,

When all else fails, buy new... or ebay it for about $20

Everyone here has given you correct advice. I can tell you from experience, once you even touch the ISS screw (Idle Stop Screw), things start to go down hill. we have had different approaches to fix this problem. Let me try to break it down:

1st) the zip-tie trick - already explained so I assume you got it.

2nd) a new ISS from tower for the Super Tigre

3rd) a direct replacement, and some say is better, was a new ISS from HPI's nitro-star (exact fit and much better replacement)

4th) and probably everyone's best bet to be done regardless, replace the ENTIRE carb with a new carb using HPI's Nirto star carb. (not the 4.6 carb) This carb is a 100% exact replacement and has been used over and over with great success. I would suggest you take this one step further and use common gasket sealer on the carb and cinch bolt (Where the carb touches the engine body and the screw that holds the carbn in-place.)

Once the last step is done, you will need very little, adjusting to your engine after you find the perfect tune. It holds a tune a lot better than the stock carb. And won't break if your linkage is off and causes you to accidentally go past WOT (wide-open-throttle) You'll see. Check it out and let me know if this works.

of course, the next thing you'll want to do is change the crappy 2-shoe clutch, but I'll save that for another post...

msinno

leealan

Just a suggestion because I am far from professional and actually only a beginner at this. I am currently working on a friends Warhead and recently ran into the problem in which it would not run at all. We have come to the conclusion after reseting the enitre carb that the glow plug is losing pressure or not getting hot enough to fire off the engine. I am in the same boat as you when it comes to nothing but problems but have yet to give up on this truck. Hopefully there is some good in it. So give your glow plugs a thorough checking and see if that helps. Good Luck, Lee Alan

Bannysfire

OKay maybe this will orwill not help it help me out a ton. Go to the hobby store get you a new glow pluglike a MC 59, then after that little problem is fixed take out that little sh** tank and redirect your fuel lines straight from the main tank that should help out a ton with your troubles......

Brad G

another FYI, during my Warhead break in I too had a real bad time getting it started with the pull start. Had way too much compression during the break in time, so I cheated and bought a bump start (which saved my truck in the end, cause if I would have had to keep pulling it I woulda ended up throwing it off a 10 story building ).

But, as time progresses, after about tank 9-10, the engine was VERY easy to start. So keep with it, or buy / borrow a bump box.

spv1425

Call Hobby Services, be calm and patient. Tell them you're having the well known issue with the carb sliding and your idle screw stop is messed up. Then tell them as a result of these issues you have broken your pull start. I explained all this to them and they sent me out a new pull start and a brand new carb without even sending in the old one. They are pretty good if you stay calm. If they give you crap, then refer them back to this site and how many people have had this same exact issue. Once my carb started sliding I had all sorts of problems. I had it running great for about 9 tanks or so, then the carb issues started. Once I got the new one everything is back to normal. A trick I use to start it easier is to pulll the fuel line off the muffler, and blow hard into it till you see gas fill up the fuel lines before you even start pulling the pull start. I find this is the best way to start it. If you get too much compression, remove glow, and pull a few times till pressure is releived, then start again. Hope this helps. Don't feel alone, many of us have had the same frustrations with this truck.