HVYMTL

After running my Savage for about half a take, the engine will die, because it is not getting gas. When you try to prime the engine, the gas will go through the gas line till it hits the carb. At that time the gas will go the oppisit way through the gas line, and feed back into the gas tank. I've replaced the gas tank, and gas lines trying to eliminate this prob.

After letting the truck set for about 10 min. the problem goes away..

HELP!!! HELP!!!

HVYMTL

WeirdKooKy

O.K. here is your problem, it's called hydrolock. What this means is that the engine is overheating and because the carburator is part of the engine, the heat passes on to the carb. Once the carb. overheats it causes the fuel to boil once the fuel touches the carb. You see, once the engine starts getting too hot, slowly the fuel gets into the engine less and less until the engine is running really, really lean and then it overheats even more until fuel can no longer enter the engine through the carb.! You must reset all 3 of the needles in the carb back to the factory settings (about 3 1/2 turns out from thier seat position) before you ruin your engine from overheating it so much. Once you have reset the carb. do not lean the engine out much more than 1/4 to 1/2 turn on any of the needles. Let me know if you have anymore questions, but my suggestion to you is not to run your truck until you have reset your carb. It is really bad on nitro engines to run them lean, they will burn up pretty fast, but if you run them a little rich so that you get lots of smoke out of the exhaust they last for a long time! You should also think about getting a Infared temperature gun from Radio Shack for about $35.00. The engine should never run over 300 degrees.

WeirdKooKy

Did it fix it?

HVYMTL

I'll let you know today.. going out to Radio Shack in a few min. to get what you recommended.. I'll let you know..

Thanx,
HVYMTL

WeirdKooKy

What's new?

HVYMTL

i went to rat shack and picked up a infared temp. guage. The engine is running between 240 and 280. I also set the needles back to the factory settings. I also cut out a 2" x 2" hole in the windshield of the body to allow air flow through the truck. This seems to have helped greatly..

I also switched out the oil in the shocks. I went with 80 weight. The truck does not sag as much as it did, and does not get the bulldog effect while driving.

thanks a lot,

HVYMTL

LandShark

80 weight shock oil?

i think now it is easy to turn over.

it should be easy to do wheelie with 80 weight

Bluehydro8

I had to put 100 weight to make mine wheelie, then i went back to 40 weight

Anything R/C

hey guys, I was reading the fuel problem posts. I have the same problem, sometimes the fuel wouldn't get pumped into the carb. I understand that the engine could be overheating, but I tuned it exactly following the manual. The stock setting was 3.5 turns from close for both the high end and low end pins. I set both to 3 turns from close. The book recommended anything between 2.5 to 3 turns. According to this, I should be okay at 3 turns. It should be a little rich already. What's my problem? The truck is brand new, I only ran 2-3 tanks after break in. The fuel problem happened twice. Have I damaged my engine already??. Please help...

WeirdKooKy

You haven't really caused your engine any damage, but over time it could. I've overheated my OS RG several times with no major consiquence, it's actually kind of good that the egine stops running when it gets too hot, because running them hot is what's hard on them. To answer your question about what to do, my suggestion is for you to go buy either an OS R-5 or McCoy MC-9 glow plug, these are cold plugs and should help the temperature drop. The reason that these plugs should help the temperature drop is because they change the timing of the engine slightly so that the detonation of the fuel occurs a little later in the stroke so that detontation is not occuring before it should. Pre-detonation is hard on any engine and can cause them to over-heat. What kind of fuel are you using? In order to help you better I need to know the oil content and nitro content of the fuel.

Anything R/C

thanks for your info...
I am using 20% trinity power fuel as the LHS recommended. TO clear one thing up, the engine didn't stop by itself, I intentionally stopped it to adjust the pin settings. It was then that I notice the fuel backing out of the carb. Do you recommend setting it back to stock settings, but then the truck is really slow. Also, my truck can't get wide open thottle from stock setting, it only opens 3/4 of the way. Does it matter, one last thing, i adjusted the idle screw to the smallest setting, but the truck wheels still turns slightly at idle. what should i do? thansk for your great help!!!

WeirdKooKy

The throttle only opening 3/4th of the way is because of the throttle return spring, remove it and you'll see what I mean. I wouldn't recomend running the truck without a throttle return spring, but you'll find that the way they set it up, it doesn't do anything anyways. Hit full throtle and turn off the reciever and you'll see what I mean, it should return the throttle but it doesn't. I hooked the spring up to the brake servo horn and connected the other end through one of the holes in the adjustable body mount on the rear of the truck. I had to carefully stretch the spring a couple of times to get it the right legth so it didn't pull too hard on the servo. richen up your low end needle (the one nearest to the fuel tank). This will slow the idle down and help your engine run a little cooler. I would recommend changing the stock pipe and taking out the restrictor piece in the exhaust coupler to get more power out of the engine. You'll be suprized how much power the stock pipe takes away from that engine. Hope this helps, let me know.

Anything R/C

thanks man,
it seems like after I changed to a cold plug, the fuel problem is fixed, well at least I hope. I took it to the LHS they gave me a os no. 8 plug. I still have other problems with the tune up. 1st, what is sputtering, and what is bogging. the manual mentioned both. When I hit full gas, the truck is sluggish in acceleration. IT moves slowly, and then pick up in speed after a little while. Is the low end too rich, or lean. I didn't hear any abnormal noise. Also, after I take it to higher speeds and shifted to 2nd gear, when I let go of the gas, I could hear a weird reving nosie like the engine is going "bow-bow-bow-bow" until it goes back to idle. Is that sputtering or what, is it too rich or too lean? Its hard to explain the sound, its kind of like a real race car driver down shifting from 6th gear all the way down to first, you know.
please help...

WeirdKooKy

Well, the no.8 plug is a general use plug, not a cold plug like you should use. As far as the slow exceleration goes, it could be either rich or lean. The way to find out is to pinch the fuel line right at the carb. if the engine speeds up for a second and then begins to slow down, then it is rich. If the engine rapidly begins to die when you pinch the line it is too lean. That stock engine is not a very powerful .21 by any means. A new pipe turns the engine into a good enough performer to have a lot of fun with it though. As far as the bow,bow,bow effect you are having goes, I'm not too sure what that might be. How much have you adjusted the carb. settings? What needles have you adjusted? Are you sure that the radio is not glitching from interference? You may want to get an R-5 or MC-9 plug not an OS no. 8, but if it's working O.K. then that's all that matters.

Anything R/C

thanks for the info,
I am planning on changing the pipe soon, as soon as I recover from the $400 I paid for the Savage. Which pipe do you recommend? The Bow-Bow sound I described is like imagine your engine is at the highest speed, the pitch it makes but not continous like it. It revs, revs, revs, each time a little bit less until the engine finally idles again. This only happens when I hit top speed or anything near it, and if I let go of the throttle. Is this normal? Its kind of like a sprinter running a quick 100m and catching his breath at the end kinda.

WeirdKooKy

Here is a link for an Ofna pipe that I have and it works very well: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZY9&P=7 . At $18.39 it's the best deal that I've seen anywhere for an aluminum tuned pipe. Ofna sells other 30 dollar pipes that you may want to look at too. If you don't know the science behind what different pipes do as far as performance, let me know and I'll explain. My hands are up with the problem you're having with the engine reving up and down until it idles again. That is a really strange problem and it shouldn't be doing that. Let me know if you figure it out what it is.

Anything R/C

The pipe only cost $18? does it include the the whole thing or just the two chamber part itself. If I get the pipe only will it make that much difference? My ofna pipe for the RS4 2 comes with the pipe and the screw mounted tubes. Let me know...
one last thing, do you recommend turning the engine pins to tune up while the engine is running? I am sick and tired of turning off the engine, then tune it, and then bust my knuckles trying to restart...

WeirdKooKy

The tube going to the exhaust pipe from the engine is called the header. Just use the stock header on the Savage and the stock rubber coupler that connects the header to the pipe. Remove the plastic piece inside the rubber coupler when you install a new pipe of any kind. The exhaust system set up is very, very critical to performance, you'd be suprized to see how much difference it makes. To answer your question about tuning, I never shut down the engine to tune it. I image that has had to drive you nuts doing it that way! The easiest way to tune the high end is to richen it up until it runs blubbery at full throttle and slowly close the needle until you get good power out of the engine with out running it too lean. The pinch test is the best way for the low end and the middle needle should stay at factory setting for the most part.

Anything R/C

whats blubery?? please clarify...
I tried that pinch test, I can't tell if it speeds up or slows down, I pinched it for 10 seconds, the engine didn't change in speed???
please explain again

WeirdKooKy

hmmm... Well, blubery I guess is a bit hard to explain. What I'm trying to explain is that when you run the engine too rich it looses power and makes a sound that sort of sounds like it is spitting out the extra fuel (which in reality is exactly what is happening). I use the word blubery to explain that which may or may not be the best way to put it. Get the engine running pretty rich on the high end and tune it up for more power from there by slowly leaning it out by about 1/8 th of a turn at a time until it runs good with out overheating. Looking for a good amount of smoke from the exhaust is also a good indication that is running rich enough to be safe. If you pinch the fuel line and you are pinching off the flow of fuel completely (which is the intention), it should sooner or later stop the engine from getting fuel and cause it to die. If it doesn't speed up a little I guess the more important thing to look for is how long it takes the engine to die. If the engine doesn't die right away that's a good thing, it should take at least 3 or 4 seconds for the engine to die, that will tell you that it is running rich enough on the low end. Make sure that when you pinch the fuel line you completely close off the tube so that no fuel can get through it and pinch it at the carb.

Anything R/C

new question, since I tested two tanks, and no hydrolocking yet, new question is how far do I have to turn to close the low end screw? It seems like I have to turn, and turn, and turn, and it seems like it never ends, I can't get it to stop, I don't know where the end is , and afraid to turn it too much? I am trying to reset the low end...

WeirdKooKy

Yea, I know what you mean, the low end needles seem to go in forever. When the screw head of the needle is flush with the carb. body it is about 3 and 1/2 turns out from seat. It should stop turning when you try to screw it all of the way in, but if it doesn't seem to then just set the screw head of the needle flush and use this for your starting point.