kbprice

What i want too know is it the same shocks and chassis as the rc8 buggy with different towers, does anybody know

HerrSavage

I heard it's based on the truggy, not the buggy.. Those shocks look biggish, so my guess it they're from the trug.. So truggy chassis, and shocks??

binaryterror

Truggy Chassis everything else is Buggy, arms, shocks...etc

Checkpointracer

It's based off the rc8t, thats all I know.

HerrSavage

If it really is just the buggy with the truggy chassis, then I would really consider getting a truggy chassis and using my buggy to convert over.. Would then need a rollcage I guess, the body, and whatever else.. Might even end up with some spare parts left over to share out between the truggy and SC8... I REALLY want one of these, but can't swing a full new one right now...

kbprice

Thats what i was thinking, you can get the buggy pretty cheap and just buy a truggy chassis. Gears will be right for the small tires only thing im concerned is with the shock towers dont have any real good pics of the towers. Although i can make the towers im the guy who made the extended chassis conversion for the sportwerks st truggy.

HerrSavage

Can we get an exact weight on this thing??

Alpha Male

My Feedback: (11)

Well gents, as much as I love this truck, I am pretty frustrated with the starter location. [:@] Since the new motor is so far forward on the chassis and so tight, I would suggest that anyone buying this truck might want to try to break it in using a starter box. I had so much trouble getting it to start and stay running during the first six tanks of break-in that I grinded (ground?) a CVA in two. That's right, the starter shaft rubs on the left rear dogbone and slowly eats it away. It may seem like a careless mistake on my part and to a point I guess it was, but the shaft entering at the rear bumper of the truck doesn't have much room. I think that the rear sway bar could be removed during break-in in order to give yourself more room when repeatedly turning over the motor. At first, I noticed that it (starter shaft) was rubbing the rear shock tower, so I was trying to avoid that when I noticed that it was now rubbing the CVA instead. By the time that I realized what was happening the damage was done and the torque from the engine twisted it the rest of the way and snapped it. []

New parts are on the way, but I won't get to finish the other four tanks of break-in until I can get the parts installed. You might think...ten tanks for break-in?!!, but I really think that this motor needs it in order to make sure that it is ready. I expect that I will use a half a gallon all together to get the motor run-in the right way. It should be a power house after that.

These pictures are going to be low quality, but you might be able to see what I'm referring to.

binaryterror

Length of break in will not give you more power or life. Actually running it rich for too long will shorten life expectancy and also hinder performance.

A guy at our track who just bought the SC8 did the standard 4 tank us racers in Michigan do and his is fine, still a ton of pinch and plenty of power running only 200 degrees.

I'd say stick to the manual break in or some of the better break ins performed by actual engine modders and some of the best engine minds in the word. Not 1 will run 10 tanks.

Alpha Male

My Feedback: (11)

You're right, the length of break-in doesn't give the engine more power (I ment that the motor will be a powerhouse, anyway), but it does increase the length of time for the power. Everyone I know believes that the bigger motors require more heating/cooling times during break-in. I always thought that it was because the piston has more mass that needs to be matched with the sleeve, but I'm no expert. Either way, running the motor rich for more tanks than necessary will not hurt the power of the motor because you are keeping the engine well lubricated. Once the final tanks are finished properly and the engine is tuned for fun, I know that the motor will stay powerful for a long time verses a quick break-in that may or may not mate the piston and sleeve well enough for extended performance. I've tried quicker methods over the years, but my current philosophy has worked well for my Savage LE, so I will stick with it. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

I'm sure you guys do have success with your way, so more power to ya. [8D]

rcnitrohead

No where have I EVER seen that running rich for extended periods of time will lead to engine degradation[sm=confused.gif]

binaryterror

Read a internal combustion engine book...this is just simple mechanics.

In a piston engine the compression ratio between the volume of the cylinder and combustion chamber when the piston is at the bottom of its stroke, and the volume of the combustion chamber when the piston is at the top of its stroke. Remember optimum compression ratio means that all the unused oil for lubricant is burned as well as the fuel charge.

The condition that too much compression causes is called detonation, or knocking and this can reduce an engine's efficiency or even physically damage it. If you run rich you are putting more fuel and oil into the same compression and fire. This will lead to higher compression which can cause a condition called Hydro-Lock. Too much fuel causing the piston/rod and crank not enough force to continue running can in fact cause a bent connecting rod or warped wrist pin.

Remember also that fuel and oil compress only so well before they will overcome the engines components. We are working with small parts and have to overcome both compression, fuel ratio, and of course the pinch tapered fit.

Alpha Male

My Feedback: (11)

Well, that sounds reasonable. I guess I may need to do some reading about nitro engines vs. other types to educate myself, rather than taking other people's word for it. The guys that I get advice from locally could be dangerous. Thanks for the input, binaryterror.

binaryterror

Good luck with the truck I have to say it runs well and looks great doing so on a track. Just wish the price would come down another $100 or so so I can afford one!

amf66

+1

rcnitrohead

Thanks for correcting me Binary[sm=thumbup.gif]

HerrSavage

OK, so just hypothetically, if someone were willing to sacrifice their RC8 buggy for parts to try a conversion, which parts should be ordered from amain to take advantage of the %10 off sale?......

07fastback

My Feedback: (145)

ok i got my sc8 on 11-15 08 had time to put one tank in the 28 and already found i dont like the remote glow plug and the on off switch is in a stupid spot the start shaft thing can easily be avoided by where you insert shaft though the back the first tank would even stay running w/ the glow ingnighter off must have a loose wire bad glow plug etc. i'm going to try driiling the body and get rid of remote glow plug dont know if it will work but if so i'll pass it on alpha male if you read this associated gives very good breakin proceedures for their motors if you follow them the engine will last a long long time and perform well 8.0 excluded its junk dont ever buy one the motors thats is truck is good motor junk more later after more tests

Alpha Male

My Feedback: (11)

I installed a set of Badland tires with white dish wheels on my SC8 and the truck will definitely rip with the extra traction. [sm=thumbs_up.gif] I also painted over the body with spray on dullcoat to give the whole body a flat look.....I just hope it adheres the the flexible lexan.

HerrSavage

That looks freakin' great. EXACTLY the SC8 I want - that black one, and was already planning on those Badlands too..

GET SOME VID!!!

f0rmula_2001

I cant wait till mine gets here! should be friday!!! I should be getting my axial 28rr for my slayer the same time. Cant wait to do some side my side testing. Are the graphics on the body paint or stickers?

madbrad70

Axial 28 in a slayer? Might want to get some wing for that thing next.
Please do post your thoughts on both truck once you get them, would be interesting to hear from some who owns both.

Alpha Male

My Feedback: (11)

I have to buy another camera before I can shoot any video, but I'll get on it tomorrow (pay day!) [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

They are stickers.

07fastback

My Feedback: (145)

third tank and it runs great jumps like a brick but races and corners excellent gonna have to get some badland or something for some traction if anyone has suggestion on set up so that it doesn't nose dive so hard on jumps please lmk i did get rid of remote plug drilled the top like usuall and had to slightly mod the roll bar heat and pliers worked excellent youneed to get a hot shot long glow igniter so you can just push it on but it works great and no remote wires in the way anymore i think it needs a two speed i keep waiting for it to change gears lol

Alpha Male

My Feedback: (11)

Smaller jumps. I just love driving mine around because of its scale look, so I have not tried any big-air launches. The SC8 definitely isn't made for controlled flight.

I thought it was just me. I'm so used to hearing my IGT shifting that a single speed tranni sounds funny.