hobbimaster

Hi, Im looking at purchasing my first EP motorcycle and have been looking at the TT Ducati EP, and the soon to be released GPV-1. I know the GPV-1 hasnt been out to get good drivers shakdown, but on terms of quality, parts, both are RTR, which one is the better buy? I do like how the TT has aluminum frame, rims, and is a little bigger, but the GPV-1 is newer, looks like its made of decent materials and has a good radio.

Guidoracer

Jimmy and I answer that very question in Episode 2 of the 2 Wheel RC Podcast. You can listen to it [link=http://2wheelrcpodcast.com]here[/link] or subscribe to it in iTunes (search for "rc motorcycles").

Lito

hobbimaster

Thanks for the link, I listened to all of episode 2. It really sounds like the 1/5th bike in the long run would be the most enjoyable, and more room to grow. No matter which bike I choose, I would have to go to a parking lot, so that really doesnt concern me. I have a DX3R, so while the FM radio on the Venum is nice, its not totally necessary in my case. It looks ike the TT Ducati uses standard 1/10 motors and electronics, so my exhisting BL systems and Lipo packs will probably fit. Sounds like I've made my mind up........Ya right!

derbi75

My Feedback: (8)

I have the DUC 999 and it is a blast but you do need a beefy motor for it. Your brush less system will do the trick. Make sure it will fit because I have heard some of the brush less systems will not fit and you might have to do some modifying to the mounts. I started with the stock set up then went down to a 13 T. Tons of fun but you'll want to upgrade the tires for better traction. I also just went to or back to the stick controller. Way better than my pistol grip. I now use it on my drift TC3 also.
Good lcuk and check out Bruce at WWW.2wheelhobbies.com some of the best prices around.

hobbimaster

I just ordered the Duc 999 EP today, I'll run it stock for now, till I gain experiance. I did watch it on youtube and seems a little tame in stock trim. But then you watch a brushless 999 and see what a beast it can become. No worries on what BL system to use in it, I have a GTB system, Sidewinder, and Tekin RS I'm sure one will fit. If all else fails I have a spare LRP quantum brushed ESC that I know will fit in anything. I've been doing R/C for many, many years this should be fun.

derbi75

My Feedback: (8)

You will love bikes as I raced them for years as a lad and in my adult years but when I got married and started having kids it was time to get off of them. When I discovered R/C bikes that was it for me. The addiction started all over again but much much less money. The crashes only hurt the wallet not my body.
Make sure to post your pics when you get your set up done. I would also put up a post on craigslist to see if others in your area are interested in starting a club or at least getting involved in r/c bikes.
It's fun to see the look on the faces of the die hard RC guys who race oval or road course and then like lito said they try it and say it isn't for me. I think anyone can run these bikes if you just practice in a big parking lot for starters. when I would run my HOR at the carpet track I got alot of onlookers and "what the heck is that thing". When you have a few running at the same time it is pure magic.
Cheers!!!

773W

My Feedback: (1)

Did yours come with the "V" shaped front tread?? I heard that the new ones dont have them. That was on of the first things i found that makes a big diffrence in handeling.

hobbimaster

Mine wont arrive till end of next week. I did order new tires from 2wheel's web site. I did a little reading on the TT and everyone of those reviews stated how bad the stock tires are. I've done almost everything in R/C since the age of 12 including planes, helicopters, cars of all sizes, tanks, boats, and now motorcycles. While Ive grown board of some of those things, I can see how motorcycles can be challenging and looks rewarding when done properly, I cant wait!

773W

My Feedback: (1)

Ya get anything else from 2wheel..? I also found the stock shock was leaking on my first run, couldent get it to seal right so that was next to be changed, along with a new damper for the steeering servo. Im only using one, It kinda wobles a bit at high speeds, so not sure if thicker oil is in order or maybe just add another damper.

derbi75

My Feedback: (8)

Yes glad you plan to upgrade the tires. My back shock was poo from the start. It is getting cold in NY so I am putting my time towards the 1/8 GPV1 right now. I think I will get another TTe when the warmth returns but do the carbon chassis upgrade Bruce has. You cannot go wrong for 70.00 to make the bike stronger and lighter. Plus it looks totally bad to the bone. A few of my local hobby guys have their own machine shops and want to make different chassis con figs to see how much it might cost to build their own bikes. Glad you went with Bruce's' site. He is a very cool guy and had a tuff year.

whitham69

The TTe is best bike but does need afew part to make it more reliable,

NF body mounts / plastic thundertiger mounts snap very easy
NF double spring steering system / the fuel tube give inconsistant feel you shouldn't need a damper for anything up to a 13.5 after that any old shock you got lying around will do that fit from a solid point on the chassie to the top triple tree.
TTn double side swing arm / TTe has single side and can bend
TTn rear axle set / needed for swing arm

That lot gives you gives you a very durable bike compared to the standered TTe

The crash bars which the bike leans on can be replaced cheaply by using piano wire most hobby shop sell the stuff can also be bent ot any lean angle you wont as well. the crash bar threads holder can strip if over tightened , if you can drill and tap another hole on the other side to increase the chance of keeping them in.The nylon carsh bar is the way forward but no need to spend more money you might not like RC bikes, use some double sided velcow on the barrety / battery tray this stops the battery moving around to much and incrase the life of the tray.If you have some grub screws use two on the front sprocket and spur gear holder this help clamp them in place and avoides lossing drive while racing and lookig around the track for small black spoecket and chain. Set up wise you find you wont more lean angle after you run it abit, add a spacer (6-10mm works well) to the top of the fork legs inbetwwen the triple tubing on the triple trees ytou need longer bolt to hold the fork in place. use all the lowest setting for the rear. Add some diff grease inside the bottom of the fork legs this stop them pattering.

Guidoracer

hobbimaster: As for the rear shock, many of the UK guys like using a Revo shock, but I find the stock shock to work perfectly IF YOU REPLACE THE BLADDER. The bladder TT uses appears to deform during assembly. I replace them with bladders from a shock rebuild kit for an XTM Mammoth, but I'm sure that other bladders will work fine also, as long as they are stiffer and slightliy larger diameter than the stock one. So to save a bit of money, pick up a couple of bladders from your LHS, along with some diff oils for tuning. I personally like 5000 CPS for heavy damping on my electric bike, but on my nitro ones, I run even thicker 7000 CPS. Many guys prefer a slightly softer rear end, so if you decide to give the TT rear shock a try, I would suggest starting off at 3000 CPS oil.

Good luck!

773W

My Feedback: (1)

The Revo piggyback shock is what i ended up with from 2wheel....Still rides abit high so Im gona have to get in there and add another damper of something. When i was running 6 cell ni/mh the ride height was alright, since Iv add a new brushless set-up and a 7.2 lipo, carbon chasis,the ride height went way up. The lipo is much lighter then the ni/mh.

hobbimaster

Well along with tires/rims, I also ordered a chain/sproket set, a spur gear adapter, a motor spacer (when I go brushless), steering damper kit, and aluminum body mounts. I did try to research this bike as much as possible, but this is the first I've read about the rear shock. I do have a spare set of Tamiya TRF shocks I may be able to make the proper legnth, I'll try to see how long my E-revo's shock is and try to match it. If all else fails I'll just buy the the revo shock itself.frpm there I
ll just wait till I bend something, or it breaks to upgrade it further.

773W

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like you got a good order coming. Good luck with it all, loved working on mine. will post a few pics in a week or so when I get back home for ya. Dont make the mistake I made out of the box, I opened it up ,add batts and tested the stock electronics. Didnt realize the steering is designed to be backwards for proper sterring control..ie when you turn the wheel on the radio left the wheel is supossed to turn right! I switched it and had a reall hard time learning how to contorl that thing. Took a bit for me to figure that one out.

whitham69

you can always add spacers inside the shock to limit the lenth of it, that what we do with the Revo shock. I think any S3 shock will TBH.

cenracer1

I have the same bike that you just ordered.. I gave up on the stock motor as soon as I squeezed the trigger the first time.. I installed a MM sidewinder and mm5700 motor.. I didn't bother running a lipo in there for the simple reason of crash protection.. I have lipo's in my Rustler and Heli but when the bike crashes, it can be very violent.. I just couldn't justify ruining a $80 lipo for a bit more speed which isn't needed unless you are racing... I can still pull a wheelie when I can get enough traction.. I'm running a 14 pinion with the upgraded chain and rear swing arm.. I changed the steering to a shock damped push-pull system.. that alone should be one of the first upgrades.. Obviously changed the front and rear tires to nitro tires.. Rounder and softer... I kept the rear shock stock.. I added a traxxas shock spacer to adjust the ride height, but I like it on the soft side... The front forks are stock, but I changed the spring rates to a slightly softer rate.. The parking lot where I run has some cracks and objects on the ground and I want the bike to absorb the bumps, not launch over them.. The stock radio works, but you should upgrade to something with a dual rate.. the steering is too sensitive in without this...
As far as the body goes, I made home made lean bars out of large piano wire and they work well and save a ton of money.. they wear out pretty fast when leaning.. I upgraded the body post to the aluminum ones, but went back to the plastic ones after a bad crash bent the chassis because of the aluminum pins.. the plastic push thru the grommet ones work fine.. Overall, I am very happy with the bike and don't see anything else that is left to improve.. Here are a few pics to show the more recent setup.. notice the rider is missing a hand.. He is now headless and in the garbage.. rides better without it anyway...

hobbimaster

She arrived today! I quickly threw open the box, took one look at the radio system, and said, "not gonna even run you!". So off with the body work to stick my Spektrum SR3001 RX. Then After looking at the ESC....not bad, but I have a Tekin R1 pro sitting in my box with a 3700KV motor, that will do nicely! After dropping the battery tray the motor just drops out after removing 2 screws...easy enough. So after replacing the electronics and adding a deans connector to the battery, I programmed everything and set-up the esc, she looks good, but I noticed the chain was extremely tight, so I loosened the rear axle and put just a little play to the chain, now the motor doesnt sound like it struggling to get the rear wheel moving. The next thing to go was the rubber bands holding the batt in, I had a set of velcro straps left over from my Scorpion crawler that worked perfectly....She was ready to go. I must say the bike is really well designed and looks rugged, I didnt get my new tires yet, so I'm stuck with those terrible kit tires. My front tire is the V shaped one, and right away when I tried to run it, any small deflection of the steering makes it go into a turn. So it seems you're either going straight or in a steep turn......nothing inbetween. Guess the new front tire will cure that. So far I'm pleased with it, and will run it after the new tires show up.

773W

My Feedback: (1)

I found the same thing with the "V" shaped front tire. A round shaped tread is the way to go. Did you also install the steering damper? Post up some pics for us!!