DuraTrax 1/5 DX450 Brushless On/Off-Road Motorcycle
#426
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Le Z Turbo,
Hi! tnx for the info. micro Dan had an excellent advice and the gyro works. the OWB was back order for months in our LHS and just this week they have it. Thank You all.
Hi! tnx for the info. micro Dan had an excellent advice and the gyro works. the OWB was back order for months in our LHS and just this week they have it. Thank You all.
#428
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ORIGINAL: juana2319
I just finished the front oil suspension and what a surprise "stock was the easier thing ever" now it feels like no gyro on it, it tryes to turn but suddenly on the floor, the same behavior than the Thunder tiger when you are turning.
What's going on? MICRODAN please so frustraded, after find the best RC ever now it's a pain in the .$&@/;;!!!!.
I just finished the front oil suspension and what a surprise "stock was the easier thing ever" now it feels like no gyro on it, it tryes to turn but suddenly on the floor, the same behavior than the Thunder tiger when you are turning.
What's going on? MICRODAN please so frustraded, after find the best RC ever now it's a pain in the .$&@/;;!!!!.
#429

Join Date: Nov 2008
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ORIGINAL: TheTambu
ORIGINAL: juana2319
I just finished the front oil suspension and what a surprise ''stock was the easier thing ever'' now it feels like no gyro on it, it tryes to turn but suddenly on the floor, the same behavior than the Thunder tiger when you are turning.
What's going on? MICRODAN please so frustraded, after find the best RC ever now it's a pain in the .$&@/;;!!!!.
I just finished the front oil suspension and what a surprise ''stock was the easier thing ever'' now it feels like no gyro on it, it tryes to turn but suddenly on the floor, the same behavior than the Thunder tiger when you are turning.
What's going on? MICRODAN please so frustraded, after find the best RC ever now it's a pain in the .$&@/;;!!!!.
HI http://<b><font color=''#00265e'' si...</fonIf t></b>
I'm living the same problem... any solution?
I've installed the new front oil suspension and the steering oil dumper ... and now when steering the bike falls down... and turns on the opposite way...
... Any Idea?
thanks
Paolo
I'm living the same problem... any solution?
I've installed the new front oil suspension and the steering oil dumper ... and now when steering the bike falls down... and turns on the opposite way...
... Any Idea?
thanks
Paolo
#430
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Carlstadt,
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For the guys that are having the steering and fall over problem.
Here's a few things to look for.
The oil forks should not have caused a problem, but you have to make sure there is no binding by disconnecting all linkage/dampers and make sure the fork is free.
The wheel should flop over when holding the bike in the air and giving it a wiggle.
When the linkage and damper is properly installed you should be able to shake the bike and the fork should freely go left and right with the shake.
I found that the linkage had to be bent a little to not bind, check all clearances with and without the body.
You can get the damper adjusted more firm after you get the bike up and running first.
The opposite steering could be just a simple thing like useing the servo revering switch. Remember the wheel/fork is supposed to turn opposite your radio control.
Counter steering is what makes these bike turn. When you turn right the bike should go right, but the wheel/fork will turn left, this is counter steering.
If your bike is falling down after installing a damper, remove it and see if it works now. Most likely you have the damper set too tight and have limited your steering too much.
And of course make sure you spool up your gyro by holding the rear wheel off the ground and give it full throttle for a few seconds until you hear it go full speed.
One thing to always remember, if you make multiple changes at one time and things go wrong, you'll have a harder time trying to figure out which change caused the problem.
Alway do one change/mod at a time and do a road test
Here's a few things to look for.
The oil forks should not have caused a problem, but you have to make sure there is no binding by disconnecting all linkage/dampers and make sure the fork is free.
The wheel should flop over when holding the bike in the air and giving it a wiggle.
When the linkage and damper is properly installed you should be able to shake the bike and the fork should freely go left and right with the shake.
I found that the linkage had to be bent a little to not bind, check all clearances with and without the body.
You can get the damper adjusted more firm after you get the bike up and running first.
The opposite steering could be just a simple thing like useing the servo revering switch. Remember the wheel/fork is supposed to turn opposite your radio control.
Counter steering is what makes these bike turn. When you turn right the bike should go right, but the wheel/fork will turn left, this is counter steering.
If your bike is falling down after installing a damper, remove it and see if it works now. Most likely you have the damper set too tight and have limited your steering too much.
And of course make sure you spool up your gyro by holding the rear wheel off the ground and give it full throttle for a few seconds until you hear it go full speed.
One thing to always remember, if you make multiple changes at one time and things go wrong, you'll have a harder time trying to figure out which change caused the problem.
Alway do one change/mod at a time and do a road test
#431
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Question about the "main shaft bearing holder". There are two positions available, I think the higher one is the stock one. Any idea of the effect on the bike with the lower one ?
#432
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I don't have the manual in front of me to verify which way is stock, but I do remember trying it both ways.
When it's done opposite of stock you'll notice the bump stop on the battery tray won't make proper contact with the swing arm. It adds more slop and free hanging on the swing arm.
And it also raises the ride height (not needed), as far as I'm concerned it worked best stock. I did not like how it went when the bearing holder was in "wrong".
Just my 2 cents on the subject.
When it's done opposite of stock you'll notice the bump stop on the battery tray won't make proper contact with the swing arm. It adds more slop and free hanging on the swing arm.
And it also raises the ride height (not needed), as far as I'm concerned it worked best stock. I did not like how it went when the bearing holder was in "wrong".
Just my 2 cents on the subject.

#433

Hey Micro Dan,
I was at the field with mine and the boys think that I should put the front tire back to the original place. I turned the forks around to give it the chopper look and keep it from hitting frame.
If I push down on the center of bike the front forks do not compress. Almost like it
has no front suspension at all.
Dan
I was at the field with mine and the boys think that I should put the front tire back to the original place. I turned the forks around to give it the chopper look and keep it from hitting frame.
If I push down on the center of bike the front forks do not compress. Almost like it
has no front suspension at all.
Dan
#434
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Location: Carlstadt,
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Dan,
Is your suspension free and working otherwise?
When you push down on the center of the bike the front end may or may not compress due to the angle of force and the rear going down and also changing the rake.
The rake and trail in the front forks need a more direct frontal force to actuate. It works best when it comes to a bump head on so to speak.
So I found what you were talking about to be normal, but of course when you direct your pressure closer to the fork they should compress normally.
Is your suspension free and working otherwise?
When you push down on the center of the bike the front end may or may not compress due to the angle of force and the rear going down and also changing the rake.
The rake and trail in the front forks need a more direct frontal force to actuate. It works best when it comes to a bump head on so to speak.
So I found what you were talking about to be normal, but of course when you direct your pressure closer to the fork they should compress normally.
#435
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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ORIGINAL: microDan
For the guys that are having the steering and fall over problem.
Here's a few things to look for.
The oil forks should not have caused a problem, but you have to make sure there is no binding by disconnecting all linkage/dampers and make sure the fork is free.
The wheel should flop over when holding the bike in the air and giving it a wiggle.
When the linkage and damper is properly installed you should be able to shake the bike and the fork should freely go left and right with the shake.
I found that the linkage had to be bent a little to not bind, check all clearances with and without the body.
You can get the damper adjusted more firm after you get the bike up and running first.
The opposite steering could be just a simple thing like useing the servo revering switch. Remember the wheel/fork is supposed to turn opposite your radio control.
Counter steering is what makes these bike turn. When you turn right the bike should go right, but the wheel/fork will turn left, this is counter steering.
If your bike is falling down after installing a damper, remove it and see if it works now. Most likely you have the damper set too tight and have limited your steering too much.
And of course make sure you spool up your gyro by holding the rear wheel off the ground and give it full throttle for a few seconds until you hear it go full speed.
One thing to always remember, if you make multiple changes at one time and things go wrong, you'll have a harder time trying to figure out which change caused the problem.
Alway do one change/mod at a time and do a road test
For the guys that are having the steering and fall over problem.
Here's a few things to look for.
The oil forks should not have caused a problem, but you have to make sure there is no binding by disconnecting all linkage/dampers and make sure the fork is free.
The wheel should flop over when holding the bike in the air and giving it a wiggle.
When the linkage and damper is properly installed you should be able to shake the bike and the fork should freely go left and right with the shake.
I found that the linkage had to be bent a little to not bind, check all clearances with and without the body.
You can get the damper adjusted more firm after you get the bike up and running first.
The opposite steering could be just a simple thing like useing the servo revering switch. Remember the wheel/fork is supposed to turn opposite your radio control.
Counter steering is what makes these bike turn. When you turn right the bike should go right, but the wheel/fork will turn left, this is counter steering.
If your bike is falling down after installing a damper, remove it and see if it works now. Most likely you have the damper set too tight and have limited your steering too much.
And of course make sure you spool up your gyro by holding the rear wheel off the ground and give it full throttle for a few seconds until you hear it go full speed.
One thing to always remember, if you make multiple changes at one time and things go wrong, you'll have a harder time trying to figure out which change caused the problem.
Alway do one change/mod at a time and do a road test

The other thing is that I'm wondering ifthe people going to the oil shocks and steering dampner know what they're doing when building oil shock, an/or how to bleed the shocks properly after filling them. If they're not able to easily compress the shock and check and see if they cycle easily (full stroke both ways), or have used to heavy an oil, or haven't bled all the air out of them, and checked to see they're working perfectly after building them that they could be making their own issues.
#436

I just made some tail frame reinforcements out of G10. I got sick of breaking them during wheelies. They are not the prettiest thing, but I can spray them black or wrap them in 3M Dinoc Carbon fiber vinyl. I'll let you know how they hold up.





#437

Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: New Carlisle,
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Wow I just bought one and find this thread, get to the end after reading every post just to find out you guys quit posting 3 months ago, maybe sping will liven this group up
#440

Join Date: Mar 2009
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Hey Dan as far as lipo batteries go, get the most mah and C rating that your wallet can afford in a quality battery that will fit in the bike, mah=run time and C=torque
#441

FYI - I have a GenAce 5000mah 50c battery that can barely fit. I have a turnigy 4000mah 40c that fits better and still gives plenty of runtime and power.
#442
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: harrisonburg,
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Picked one up for my son's birthday. Off to a bad start trying to sort out some of the stock issues; rear shock seals popped out and my lipo will not fit the battery box!
Should I get the Revo shock or can I improve the stock shock?
What is the latest/best lipo that fits on a budget?
Should I get the Revo shock or can I improve the stock shock?
What is the latest/best lipo that fits on a budget?