AnAlternateEgo

Hey guys, i just came into possession of a used GT2 that is in really nice shape. I want to get into racing and was wondering what some much needed upgrades were? I'm going to get rechargeable batteries for it. Also these tires are bald so i'm definitely replacing them. Are the stock tires good enough for a replacement or do most people go aftermarket? Since this truck is 2wd do the front tire tread patterns really matter? Would it be recommended to go back with the grooved slicks that come stock or would it be better/worse if i matched the front treads with whatever rear tread that i order?

i8tweety

My Feedback: (11)

If you're going to be racing, go to your local track and see that tires and rubber compounds they are running. When I was racing my RC10GT, I ran proponent bowties or square fuzzies (m2 or m3 compounds) in the rear depending on track conditions. What is the right tire for you may be different.

motoxic2

Hey man i too just got a used rc10gt2 i plan on racing in our local 2wd sc class, upgrades i made that are pretty much mandatory for a serious racer are aluminum front and rear towers, aluminum rear hub carriers and the front knuckles, and threaded aluminum shock bodies, also i upgraded my servos with some cheap but great solar brand servos (d771)'s, new proline front and rear tires i like calibers or holeshots for the rear and the ribs for the front and im going to put an os .18 motor on it, if you race on 1/10th scale tracks you probably dont need that much power

motoxic2

Also i use 6volt reciever packs for way more speed and tourque

Airbus 9e

I'd use the Factory Team shock towers instead of aluminum. Lighter and just enough flex not to break and stiff enough to not change the suspension geometry for good handling.

Sixtysixdeuce

+1

For racing, it's really hard to top the Factory Team set up. The RC10GT was not meant to be a basher; It's a lightweight, streamlined competition truck. Everything about them is geared toward performance, not crash durability. If you're going to tear it up just playing like I do, then lots of metal parts are the way to go. But for racing, you want to keep the weight down.

Remember, NORRCA/ROAR have rules about engines, and you can't just offset your weight gain by plopping a bigger motor in like you would with a basher. Handling also goes to poop when you start adding weight. Trust me, I have a GT that tips the scales at almost 7 lbs with almost no plastic left. But I bash it hard, and even aluminum hop ups weren't tough enough in some places; I hand-built beefier 6061-T651 aluminum control arms, steel rear hub carriers, steel front C-Hubs, steel knuckles and hardened steel 1/4" front axles, hardened steel 12mm hexes for the rear drives, steel engine mount, etc. To motivate it with all that weight, I'm running an OFNA Force .32 with 14T/48T bell/spur, and this truck runs 74 MPH.



All that is cool stuff, but guess what happens when it goes up against a competition tuned stadium truck on a real track? That's right, I'm overweight & overpowered, which means constant spin-outs, roll-overs, nose dives, etc. This thing is a beast bashing in the fields, but I get my butt handed to me on a course.

In summary, if you really want to race, make sure your upgrades don't actually downgrade you performance. Keep it light & nimble by using high quality parts that are geared toward racing, such as the FT graphite shock towers, lightweight outdrives, etc.