Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more > RC Nitro Stadium Trucks
Improving Nitro sport on road character >

Improving Nitro sport on road character

Notices
RC Nitro Stadium Trucks Discuss all aspects of rc nitro stadium trucks here

Improving Nitro sport on road character

Old 06-19-2017, 04:35 PM
  #26  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Okay. Best I can tell, you need the following parts.

4430 - bottom chassis
4431 - top chassis
4432 - fuel tank mount
Exploded view of rustler chassis: Click image for larger version

Name:	44094-1%20Nitro%20Rustler%20Exploded%20Views-140828_44094%20Chassis%20Assembly.jpg
Views:	62
Size:	472.7 KB
ID:	2220884

The rear is pretty much identical between both models.
The Front is where the steering is - Look at the diagram and get everything from the servo saver down to the bell cranks and shims. Click image for larger version

Name:	44094_Explodedviews-131210_44094%20Front%20Assembly.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	534.6 KB
ID:	2220885

3744 - servo saver
1935 - 35mm turnbuckle
2742 - rod ends
2545 - bellcrank bushings (could be replaced with bearings I think)
1985 - teflon shim washers
2543 - bell cranks
4428 - tie-rod and screws
Look at the diagram also on screws. You may need additional screws and hardware. The above lists should get you going pretty good anyway.
Old 06-19-2017, 07:23 PM
  #27  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Okay. Best I can tell, you need the following parts.

4430 - bottom chassis
4431 - top chassis
4432 - fuel tank mount
Exploded view of rustler chassis: Attachment 2220884

The rear is pretty much identical between both models.
The Front is where the steering is - Look at the diagram and get everything from the servo saver down to the bell cranks and shims. Attachment 2220885

3744 - servo saver
1935 - 35mm turnbuckle
2742 - rod ends
2545 - bellcrank bushings (could be replaced with bearings I think)
1985 - teflon shim washers
2543 - bell cranks
4428 - tie-rod and screws
Look at the diagram also on screws. You may need additional screws and hardware. The above lists should get you going pretty good anyway.
perfect. I'll hit the lhs and see what it comes to compiled on a list. If it's anywhere near what I see rollers going for I'll just do that. Screws I'm sure he will have on hand since he has evreything traxxis luckily.
Old 06-20-2017, 03:16 AM
  #28  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Yeah - is definitely check around on a roller or even a non rolling chassis. I know that lower chassis plate is about $40 or so by itself. Also; I didn't include the suspension turnbuckles - I didn't know if you were for sure doing Jato suspension or not. You may want to do is get the rustler chassis setup first and drive it to see if it's up to 'snuff' for you.

Regardless, any LHS that carries Traxxas should have everything in stock you will need minus chassis parts. Those usually need to be ordered.
Old 06-20-2017, 07:03 AM
  #29  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Yeah - is definitely check around on a roller or even a non rolling chassis. I know that lower chassis plate is about $40 or so by itself. Also; I didn't include the suspension turnbuckles - I didn't know if you were for sure doing Jato suspension or not. You may want to do is get the rustler chassis setup first and drive it to see if it's up to 'snuff' for you.

Regardless, any LHS that carries Traxxas should have everything in stock you will need minus chassis parts. Those usually need to be ordered.
honestly it may be fine without the jato suspension- I'm sure I'll eventually do it though... I can't leave cars alone honestly lol I've got 10,000$+ sunk into my 1/1 car so why wouldn't I dump money into my 1/10 😊
Old 06-20-2017, 07:51 AM
  #30  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Yeah - is definitely check around on a roller or even a non rolling chassis. I know that lower chassis plate is about $40 or so by itself. Also; I didn't include the suspension turnbuckles - I didn't know if you were for sure doing Jato suspension or not. You may want to do is get the rustler chassis setup first and drive it to see if it's up to 'snuff' for you.

Regardless, any LHS that carries Traxxas should have everything in stock you will need minus chassis parts. Those usually need to be ordered.
honestly it may be fine without the jato suspension- I'm sure I'll eventually do it though... I can't leave cars alone honestly lol I've got 10,000$+ sunk into my 1/1 car so why wouldn't I dump money into my 1/10 😊
Old 06-20-2017, 08:14 AM
  #31  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

I would hold off on putting a 3.3 into it then. The 3.3 makes the Rustler very wheelie happy and squirrelly when run fast. I would also put a little thicker shock oil into the shocks so it doesn't squat as easily.
Old 06-20-2017, 01:26 PM
  #32  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
I would hold off on putting a 3.3 into it then. The 3.3 makes the Rustler very wheelie happy and squirrelly when run fast. I would also put a little thicker shock oil into the shocks so it doesn't squat as easily.
maybe the 2.5r is a better choice for my needs then
Old 06-20-2017, 03:08 PM
  #33  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Talking

Originally Posted by Fixerupper
maybe the 2.5r is a better choice for my needs then
I think a .15 or 2.5cc engine would be good. But if the funds allow, I'd get a Novarossi over the TRX..
Nova 2.5SC engine, manifold, pipe -$150 N2.5SC/RT-R (for REVO)
Traxxas 2.5R engine only $102 - TowerHobbies.com | Traxxas TRX 2.5R Racing Engine w/Pull Start
- need manifold and pipe; Traxxas pipes kinda suck.

This is the Nova .15 (listed above) I wanted to get my hands up one of these days.. I like the fact it comes with the manifold and pipe too.
Old 06-20-2017, 06:58 PM
  #34  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'll do some research on it but the nova engine sounds like it would be a really fun motor to work with. Somewhat "exotic" lol
Old 06-21-2017, 02:55 AM
  #35  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

And Novarossi has never been more affordable too, so it's nice to have premium quality and not a premium price.
Old 06-21-2017, 10:34 AM
  #36  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
And Novarossi has never been more affordable too, so it's nice to have premium quality and not a premium price.
novadirect is a savior lol so the .15 from the link- seems like a drop in other than the throttle arm position, wonder small tweaks it would take to get it to sit right
Old 06-21-2017, 01:23 PM
  #37  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Fixerupper
novadirect is a savior lol so the .15 from the link- seems like a drop in other than the throttle arm position, wonder small tweaks it would take to get it to sit right
It has a slide valve carburetor on it, so it should be a piece of cake to adjust the throttle arm so it will connect with the linkage. Question - do you have your Nitro Sport setup with the old style Pro .15 engine or is it a newer 2.5 engine? If it's set up with a 2.5, it will be easy to setup. Otherwise you will need a few parts to switch it over to accept a slide valve carb.
Old 06-21-2017, 01:33 PM
  #38  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

had my first casualty- stripped my steering servo out. got a futaba S3305 but its a bit wonky since it seems i mounted it wrong the first time lol
Old 06-21-2017, 02:35 PM
  #39  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

even stranger, i switched out the servos and evreything was fine, i got to do a quick run and my receiver is stone cold dead. I have no clue what happened- could the new servo have shorted it out? so strange
edit: Ended up figuring out that i had compressed the power wires running from the battery when i was reattaching the chassis. thank god for voltimeters.

Last edited by Fixerupper; 06-21-2017 at 04:54 PM.
Old 06-21-2017, 05:20 PM
  #40  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
It has a slide valve carburetor on it, so it should be a piece of cake to adjust the throttle arm so it will connect with the linkage. Question - do you have your Nitro Sport setup with the old style Pro .15 engine or is it a newer 2.5 engine? If it's set up with a 2.5, it will be easy to setup. Otherwise you will need a few parts to switch it over to accept a slide valve carb.
its the pro .15 so its the old style carb- not that i mind modifying for a slide carb considering most of the more interesting engines use them
Old 06-22-2017, 02:56 AM
  #41  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Fixerupper
its the pro .15 so its the old style carb- not that i mind modifying for a slide carb considering most of the more interesting engines use them
Traxxas sells a kit to convert the old style rotary carb linkage to slide carb. If you look at the exploded view of the Rustler chassis, it should show the engine mount under the engine and the linkage from the throttle servo to the carb. That is all you should need. That is if the engine you put in has a header and pipe on it.
Old 06-22-2017, 06:23 AM
  #42  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Traxxas sells a kit to convert the old style rotary carb linkage to slide carb. If you look at the exploded view of the Rustler chassis, it should show the engine mount under the engine and the linkage from the throttle servo to the carb. That is all you should need. That is if the engine you put in has a header and pipe on it.
minus engine evreything I should need for the conversion comes to about 60$ so hopefully my lhs has it in stock- get this going! The futaba alone has so much more power than the stock steering servo haha
Old 06-22-2017, 07:13 AM
  #43  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

About the only thing that your LHS wont have in stock is the bottom chassis plate. If they have one, that's a bonus. You might be able to save a few bucks getting some of your parts here: https://www.dollarhobbyz.com/collect...+nitro-rustler

Dollar Hobbyz is basically a chop shop. All parts are new take-offs from RTR models. I assembled a 3.3 engine for about $40 - I already had the piston/liner/rod, carb, backplate, and bought everything else for the engine from DH. Might be worth a look.
Old 06-22-2017, 08:59 AM
  #44  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Good call, all parts ordered for about 70$, dollar hobbies provided the chassis and servo saver though. Now I'll lower the shocks while I wait.
Old 06-22-2017, 10:50 AM
  #45  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Good to hear! Good luck! I have the task of rebuilding the shocks on my Nitro Rustler. They're a little leaky after all these years, and they're a bit soft. I gotta see if I have some 30wt or 40wt shock oil. The chassis hits the ground in the back when I start a wheelie and hits the ground up front when it lands.
Old 06-22-2017, 11:19 AM
  #46  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Good to hear! Good luck! I have the task of rebuilding the shocks on my Nitro Rustler. They're a little leaky after all these years, and they're a bit soft. I gotta see if I have some 30wt or 40wt shock oil. The chassis hits the ground in the back when I start a wheelie and hits the ground up front when it lands.
I'm ready to tear into it

i think ill take on the shock lowering job once i have all the parts together and am taking the nitro apart anyway. On my buggy I have to set the mesh by just loosening screws and feeding a thick paper sheet into the mesh. On these I'm not quite sure what to do but I'm going to be checking the manual
Old 06-22-2017, 11:47 AM
  #47  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

I used to use paper for setting the gear mesh - notebook paper specifically. Anything thicker will leave too much backlash in the clutch and spur gears. Now I just set it by eye. Once I get it where I want it, I snug the screws down and put a little liquid paper on a couple teeth of the spur and spin it past the clutch a few times noting the pattern. If it hits square, I tighten the engine down and run it. As long as it's close to square and just loose of tight, you're golden. If that makes sense.
Old 06-22-2017, 04:41 PM
  #48  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
I used to use paper for setting the gear mesh - notebook paper specifically. Anything thicker will leave too much backlash in the clutch and spur gears. Now I just set it by eye. Once I get it where I want it, I snug the screws down and put a little liquid paper on a couple teeth of the spur and spin it past the clutch a few times noting the pattern. If it hits square, I tighten the engine down and run it. As long as it's close to square and just loose of tight, you're golden. If that makes sense.
yeah i follow, its the fancy engine mount that threw me off- my old buggy is just 4 screws in the chassis.. speaking of which after you mentioned bottoming out on your rustler shocks the buggy is in the same condition. ill get some practice on those i suppose. im guessing 30wt is fine for my needs since i dont think i want too stiff for a relatively flat surface.
Old 06-22-2017, 05:55 PM
  #49  
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,421
Received 79 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

Shocks that don't dampen as well are either leaking or the pistons may be worn down enough to not work correctly. OR the oil isn't thick enough. Tearing it apart is the only way to find out what's wrong. That's where I'm at. I need to tear them down, replace o-rings, and possibly replace pistons also and maybe even go with thicker oil too. Hard to say.
Old 06-23-2017, 08:16 AM
  #50  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Well I dove in and did the shocks- it was driving fantastic yesterday with just the servo changed so I'm thinking it'll be even better with the lower setup.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2716.JPG
Views:	41
Size:	1.27 MB
ID:	2221291  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.