rush basher

Btw that undertray looks very nice! I like how it comes under the exhaust too - good design.

The cast steel bevel gears are now standard on the evos. They have been since about 3 months after the evo was released. I went through 2 sets of old ones, and on the second set (a few months after I bought it, i got the cast ones for free - lhs said hpi had told them to replace stripped pot bevel gears with cast for free. No problems since (14 months down the line). I also stripped a middle gear in those first few months, got a stock replacement (which is also still o.k 13-14 months later) but I now have a hd one waiting for when the stock goes.

Also on the evo the transmission case is slightly different, aswell as the chassis, engine plate, engine, rotostart, and the better compound tires with foams in all four. And obviously the body too. And the latest standard radio gear.

subsy

"The cast steel bevel gears are now standard on the evos."

Are these visable from the outside as ive just ordered my evo from models in motion and will want to know if its got these

[WPA] Tommy

Ok good news (i hope), posted x2 new images of the undertray in my gallery and also have worked out a price, will be able to sell for £7.00.

If anyone is interested then i have set up an email address, so email me at [email protected] and i can email you back more details etc.

rush basher

I may get one of those undertrays in the future - looks good.

Subsy, if the evo is new, then there will be the cast steel ones. Or if it was originally bought in the last 12 months(ish) then it will have them too. They aren't visible from the outside as they are inside the main gear in the transmission case...

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Actually, it'll work with the old chassis, there's just one little stump you have to dremel off if you're still using the stock upper deck.

samisnake

yeh i used a coping saw on mine. took about all of 10 seconds

subsy

Thanks rush basher! it arrived yesterday i payed £165.00 is that good?

samisnake

165 is a good price to pay, seein as its around 190 evrywhere else

subsy

thought so, and got free delivery, ive got to say im very impressed with models in motion

www.modelsinmotion.co.uk

subsy

i havnt actually started it or anything at the moment but i was watching the dvd that came withit and i was lookin at the breaking in procedure and the brakes and all that etc but now ive come to get all the gaps and everything right in the carb and setting the brake up i cant get the brake to hold the car from rolling and when its in neutral to roll freely. i can get them to do these settings but i cant get it to hold both of the settings its either, you can roll it at neutral but if u want to brake ur screwed because it wont, or you can brake but ull melt ya clutch because it wont roll at idle ! lmao what do i do?

TonyT944

What spring colour are you guys using on your evos? the standard black on mine suck - was thinking of going to purple on rear only at first to see how it handles. Any suggestions?

TonyT

samisnake

i use threaded shocks so that i can adjust the stiffness. however on my stock setup, i used to use blue allround. i agree the black shocks are awfully soft, specially with the rush's heavy rear end

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

i have the blue springs on my rush with 40wt oil and a #1 piston in each shock...i need softer springs or more damping.

subsy

no one know the answer to my question?

[WPA] Tommy

When i first got my rush evo the best advice i got was to watch the dvd but don't change any of the factory setting to start with. Get the truck run in, get it running on the ground and get used to it and then start to make adjustments; but make adjustment one at a time so you can see what difference if any it has made.

subsy

ye i know what ya mean mate but i was jus testing to see if the brakes work. cuz the last thing i wanna be doin is running it in for the first time ( after the static break in ) an smack it into summin. i was just making sure my brakes work but they just dont[] what can i do?

[WPA] Tommy

Not sure, it's tricky when your not there to see what the trucks doing. You could always reset the truck back to factory settings and start from scratch, or maybe try adjusting the idle screw so it don't rev as much at idle or check the instruction for adjusting the break. Personally i don't use the break much as i'm too busy ragging and bashing it......which probably doesn't do it any good but its v v fun.

TonyT944

what make are your threaded shocks?

ReDLiNe_XxX

Tommy that undertray is awesome! looks cool with the rush evo on the side.

samisnake

my shocks are made by gpm and are made for the kyosho mp7

TonyT944

or take a little nick out of the plastic upper deck, rather thank trimming the extension off the new engine plate. works well.

TonyT

and samisnake , thanks, have managed to get a set of purples cheap enough for the rear. I'll give that a try first before i swap chocks. T

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

tony, TRUST ME, it's easier to knock off that nub.
and more to the point, there's no corresponding screw hole in the original rush chassis.

samisnake

i agree with thunderbird on this one. it is much easier to saw off the plastic stump than cuttin the metal bit. take the upper deck off first, then just screw the engine plate on, then realign the upper deck and have alook where the stump covers the engine plate. just saw that small piece off. it is easier to cut and also makes it look tidier.

TonyT944

THATS WHAT I MEAN! - leave the engine plate as is, cut the top deck.

thats what you mean yeah? [8D]

samisnake

i think we all got our wires crossed. we all agree on the same method, yet we are writing to each other as if we are each backing a different method [&:]