boarding2427

ok we need to get this thing up and running again- need more posts

dicko

check out the RC10GT factory team header for pullstart for a good replacement over the stock one. i'm about to put one on (i bent the stock one on the weekend).

boarding2427

hey i got a question i forgot about this before now...but i stripped the allen screws in the cooling head how can i get them out?

nitro125

my eveder breaks stuff alot

dicko

if you have access to a drill press with a clamp attached you can get it out. You need to get 1 screw out to find a drill bit that is just a little bit bigger than the head of the screw, but will still fit down the slot in the cooling head. you want to carefully drill the head of the screw off that it stuck without taking too much material off the head. once you have all the stuck screws heads removed take the screws that can be undone out & remove the head. you will have the screw stumps poking out of the block (crank case) which you can now lock onto with a good quality set of small vice grips & remove (you may be able to undo them with pliers). you need to order some new head screws (get the part number from your engine manual) & i suggest replacine all head screws with signs of wear.

Good luck.

boarding2427

ok thanks dicko will try that if duratrax doesnt fix it(most likely they wont).


ok but my friend told me about a boost thing that makes it idle smoother and get higher top speeds and higher rpms.
any one know about this? i think it is used on a tmaxx but i think it might be able to be used on other trucks too

Snipin_Willy

The only boost thing I've heard about is the MIP boost bottle, and it has little to ZERO affect on engine performance. The RPM of an engine is limited by it's design and is largly affect by the length of the piston stroke. Besides, the OS .18 cv-r and DTX .18 engines aren't designed for high rpm, makeing them rev over what they were designed for can damage the engine. If you want a high rpm engine, do research before you buy.
Dicko: I have the GT header for a non PS and if you want gain over the stock header you will need a small file or a dremel tool, it's very restricked out of the bag. I just finished porting mine out when I had the engine loose for installing the new clutch.

David D

Snipin how are the clutch shoes working or have you not had a chance to test them yet?

Snipin_Willy

Right now I'm in the middle of nowhere and the nearest hobby shop and track is 2 hours away. I have no fuel and I'm trying to find a shop that sells sidewinder fuel, so I'm just as anncy to test it out as everyone here.

dicko

i pretty much dremmel out all my headers as a part of setup, the only header i have bought so far which i didn't see the need to port was the macs header for my nitro boat. with the macs tuned pipe (no baffle) that is by far the loudest engine i have, it makes my .21 in the mugen sound quiet. i've had the GT header sitting there for a while, but on recolecton it didn't look that bad (is your's the factory team one , pink anodised?), i'll have another look before i put it on and if it needs porting, the dremel is right there ready to go. i was going to get the gt factory pipe, but i'm waiting for an order which needs to add a few dollars to get a discount, so the next big tower order i do i will probably get it.

Snipin_Willy

Mine isn't annod. I finished porting mine out this afternoon. The opening is almost 2x the size that is was.

InfinitySpeed04

Going to my LHS tomoorow and looking for some good tires for my evader for off-roading on dirt and clay track. Anyone got any ideas for a good set up for front and back tires?

dicko

the proline edge up front & a medium to wide spaced pin on the rear. compound depends on how long your mains are, thats if your clay track is well swept/watered & hard. the proline bow ties are a good allrounder, the losi taper pins are good to, but don't last as long in my experience.

as for the header, i think the factory team one is better ported than the standard one, not sure, but i don't think i need to do much work to get mine to mate well with the port on the block.

boarding2427

i just bought an airbrush today so i can paint some body's. it works awsome and it seems like it would be pretty easy to use except in small areas. it will truly look amazing when im done w/ it. what kind of designs do you guys think i should do, i was thinking racing stripes(red/black) or a flame job w/ a black base coat and red/orange/yellow fade flames. let me know what you guys think would be kool

nitro125

im having a very very hard time to get my car tuned does any one have any help???? it runs fine for like 1 min then if i let it even get close to idle rpm it just dies on me.I tryed messing with the low and high speed idles way too much and im sick of doing it. whats ur guys evaders tune like??? how many turns out from flush with the high and low speeds??? and what kind of plug are u are using??? i need to know what to do cuz im lazy

boarding2427

i hav mine on the high speed about 2 1/4 turns out and the lowspeed i dont know i never touched that. i use an OS A3 glow plug that is a high temp glow plug. hope this helps

David D

Try adjusting the idle screw.

InfinitySpeed04

Mine is 2 1/2 turn from closed on the high speed. It runs alright but it still need a ittle tweeking now and then.

nitro125

its not the idle screw its the mixture. when i try to get it to not die i richen it a hair like a 1/8 turn then it just over loads the plug with fuel and boggs down but it runs flawless if i hold it wide open for about 6 sec. then let it idle i think i should try a diff plug and see how that works . right now i have a cheap hobbytown usa plug a "cold" one and it might be the problem i think

dicko

how much nitro are you running? if you are running 25% or more the cold plug will be OK. if you are running between 15 - 20% go with an OS A3 or OS #8. sounds like you LSN is a bit rich, when you have it idling, pinch the fuel line & see how long it takes to stall the engine, more than 5-6 seconds & you are on th rich side, try to get it to cut out between 4-5 seonds. remember these engines aren't designerd to idle for long periods, they are designed to be raced. so to hold a tune through mid & top end you won't get it to idle for long periods. i always have a finger on the throttle & give it bursts of gas then brake to keep the engine from loading up with fuel while i'm putting the body on, or on the start line.

InfinitySpeed04

Man, its always the little things that keep me from running my evader. This week I have lost the tiny bearing in my frnt wheels, screws, nuts, and now the most important nut the locknut that hold the tires on. So many trips to my LHS its getting ridiculous. Grrrrrrrr! Getting frustrated because I just put a new .18 CV-RX and I was worried the engine wouldnt work and now everything else wont work. By the way, I just bought rims in the link below and I said that the universal adapters fit associated vehicles and that pretty much means it fits the evader too. The rear wheels are doing fine but the fronts are not doing to well. Has anyone else tried to put these rims on their evader? I cant find the right one to fit the axle on my car with leaving the lock nut loose! Anyone know any ways to fit these?

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEXA1&P=7]Hpi Split 5 Truck Wheel[/link]

Bri6791

Hey, the engine in my evader quit (only 2 days not even broken in. extremely temperamental) and i'm just wondering if i should send it in for repair/replacement or just buy a new engine like a ROAR legal or a better .18. Thanks for any input.

Snipin_Willy

During breakin the engine will be act like that (cutting out and not wanting to start). This is what makes break-in's fun (not). Once the engine is broken in and TUNED it'll be easy to start and keep running.

I got to a hobby shop today (3 of them in fact), found some Odonnell fuel (I wanted sidewinder, but I'll test this out). I'll be sure to let ya'll know which fuel I like better. If I can find the time to try out the new clutch shoes tomarrow, I'll be sure to report back. If I don't get to it tomarrow, ya'll might have to wait till sunday or monday when I get to my local track.

dicko

when changing fuels you will notice that you will have to retune your engine, especially if there is a different nitro content and oil content, be carefull. if you increase the nitro you will need to lean it out, BUT if you increase oil you will need to richen it up. i thought more oil would mean you could lean it out, but it doesn't.

with the wheels, you deed the washers that apply pressure to the centre of the bearings & let the outside spin freely (as long as the bearing diameter is right. I know any losi rim will fit the evader.

Bri6791

yeah, but even my LHS said that the engine didn't look too good and suggested i buy a new one (the flywheel was too easy to move for a new engine, and then again, they said the same thing about duratrax as many other people have...). And i've tried like >10 times to start it, changed the glow plug, cleaned out the cooling head, and it refused to start, not even a single combustion. That, and i already took it out and now the throttle won't close all the way... (whoops [:'(]) Sorry if this is just random noob worries.


Nevermind, just gonna send it in and hope it works when i get it back.