chrobar

Well i just purchased a new servo a futaba s3305 with metal gears and im happy with it. its a great servo with a lot of power.

Blackfoot

Nice upgrade to start with. Did you find any tires to replace the useless stock ones yet?
I know with winter fast approaching, Im getting antsy to get the skiis and paddles out for Rooster Time

NitroSport22

do yall think it would be possable...(and worth it) to make the uppper and lower chassy plates aluminum

chrobar

Yea black foot i got those losi smasher tires. they were my first buy, along with a motor save filter, hpi wheels, and thicker shock oil. I've been having problems tuning the truck. I go WOT and the car sputters and sometimes dies. I dont think it's running lean cuz theres ton of smoke coning out. Im a newb so can you help me out?
thanks.

Blackfoot

I doubt you will really need it. Ive had no problems with mine whats so ever. I Bash in a Gravel Pit, the one pile is 20+ feet and Ive launched it about 10 feet over the top, landed the 30ish foot drop and it keep on going. I whoop the hell out of it and its only broke 1 shock tower.

shadowsilverxe

anyone have suggestions on an aluminum pipe for the nitro sport with a .15 engine?

chrobar

I've heard that the traxxas resonater pipe is good

MetallicaJunkie

my jato 3.3 has one.....not bad for stock,considering what traxxas used to use a fewyears ago...... fu c king plastic "tuned pipes"

shadowsilverxe

The stock plastic tuned pipe is what i'm looking to replace. I think hpi makes an aluminum one that will work. here is a video I made with my nitro sport, only about a quarter throttle though, I thought for sure the camera was gonna go flyin off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otR-AQbV4GA

shadowsilverxe

anyone have pictures of their nitro sport??

MetallicaJunkie

nice

shadowsilverxe

Replace the stock a arms.... So far so good, now what?

chrobar

Can you guys get your nitro sports to wheelie with the stock motor? Mine is getting so close but not there yet. I've heard that i can somehow tighten the diffs on a RC10GT but is it possible to do that on the nitro sport? If so , how? Also, i know this is a stupid question but, what does the fuel line the goes from the tank to the pipe do? Is it like a pump to get the fuel to the motor?
thanks

Viper87

Hey everyone,

I am completely new to nitro Trucks. Like yesterday new. I have been breaking in my new Nitro Sport and Love it so far. I just have a couple of newbie questions:

How hot should the engine be when driving for about 10 minutes on varied throttle ranges, not much WOT. If it is very hot will it prevent the car from starting again unitl it cools down?

Also today after I ran it for about 15-20 minutes constant with varied throttle (still breaking in) i notices that there was a small amount of smoke coming out of the engine area. I couldnt tell if it was coming from the exhaust pipe for the engine head. Is this just breaking the engine breaking in or do I have a bigger problem. The body was on so less cooling?

Any help and info would be greatly appreciated.

Viper87

Blackfoot

If your getting alot of smoke durring acceleration, its running too rich. Turn the High Speed Needle(HSN), the one sticking straight up, clockwise 1/4 turn untill you only get a small cloud of smoke durring acceleration. The suggested tuning on the HSN is turned in all the way till snug(not tight it will damage the needle) and out (counter-clockwise)2 & 1/2 turns. I run mine a lil rich(helps the motor run cooler and lasts longer) 2 & 3/4 turns out.

Blackfoot

Welcome to Nitro Sporting. You got a good lil truck there!!!!

NEVER break in a motor with the body on. It needs to breathe and get as much cold air as possible. Watch the video and do EXACTLY what they recommend durring break in. On the 4th tank(I Believe) start leaning out the HSN, The Needle sticking straight up with what looks like a thumb screw around it) by turning it clockwise 1/8 to 1/4 turn for each of the next 3 tanks of fuel.

The less you open up your engine the hotter it will get, remember its air cooled, if you just put around(this is after break in is completed) the less cold qair its foing to get blowing by the engine. The hotter the engine gets, especially with Traxxas engines, the more the fuel will evaporate when it reaches the carb. So if you get it Hot, it will not want to start easily because the fuel will be boiling before it can get inside the cylinder.

ALSO!!!! cut a hole in the windshield!!!!!!!! and open the area of the body surrounding the engine as much as possible, Make it resemble the openess of a real 1:1 pick up bed. This will allow as much cold air get in through the windshield to cool the engine qand let the hot air pass out the rear of the body.

Viper87

Blackfoot,

Thanks for your help.

So once the engine is broken in will it still have the heat problem. It seems like even when I did run it with the body off it still got pretty hot. The motor would just cut and I would have a hard time getting it started again. Break-in Pains? I guess it could be like you said... just putting around will not provide enough airflow.

Also which videor are you talking about. The only video I have seen is the promo video on the Traxxas website.

Thanks again,

Viper87

dannthenitroman

The RC10GT has a ball diff, the sport and rustler has a gear diff so it cannot be tightened, and that wont help you wheelie anyway, just varies how it turns. and i doubt you will get wheelies with a trx pro 15, but ported it most definately will, it will whoop a 2.5 ported, for any experience guys, take a look at the size of the crankcase ports compared to the sleeve ports

Dann

Blackfoot

Anytime Viper, Im not the most knowledgeable person on RC's. In my 20+ years Ive picked up a few tips through experiance, mostly the hard way, lol.

I got a DVD with all my Traxxas RC's. It goes through the Break In procedures.

Once the Engine is broke in properly and tuned, it shouldnt get excessivley hot. Try to grab one of the either, infa-red or onboard tem gauges. Duratrax has a great and simple handheld IR that cost me only $25 at my LHS. It should run between 210 to 250 ish degrees under normal operation. Remember after you go through the break in procedure, which is 6 or so tanks, lean it out to about 2 & 1/2 to 2 & 3/4 turns from snug. It will continue to break in throughout the first gallon or so. The more fuel you run, up to 3-4 gallons will be steadily increasing the power output of the motor. The whole time you want the motor to run a little rich, emitting a haze of light blue smoke during acceleration. This will prolong the life of the moto from the unburnt oil and keep the engine running cooler due to unburnt fuel. The motor is only lubed by the oils in the fuel. Too rich will smoke heavily and break up or bogg under power. Too lean will emit little or no smoke but screw with power like a scalded dog. Too lean will get hot fast, wear out the piston and sleeve and kill the motor very fast.

Run a good 20% fuel. There are several brands. I use Traxxas Top Fuel in my Traxxas and Dynamite 20% in my Ofna .32 LX COMP Buggy, Losi Aftershock and my Evader. Ive had great luck with both fuel brands for well over 10+ years. I cant get the highly recommended Byrons anywhere around here and dont do alot of Tower Hobby shopping. I like to keep the business in my LHS (remember to always support your LHS when possible).

If Im off on any key points, please feel free to let me know. Im nowhere near perfect and am willing to admit it. I try to help where I can and try to be as accurate as possible.

Blackfoot

Ah Shadowsilverx, You got some RPM's. GOOD SCORE bro!!

Alot of ppl think im crazy for running rear tires on the front of my trucks. I run Dirt Hawgs or Yokohoma Geolanders on the front and Losi Smashers on the rear,(except my Evader, I like the stock pro edges) They both work awsome for turning on any of the surfaces I run i.e. grass, dirt or street. The stock Traxxas tires blow.

The first upgrades I make are tires front and rear, fuel filter, rechargable hump battery packs, exhaust. The others such as shock towers, susp arms, servos. I usually wait till I break something and replace them with upgraded parts. If it aint broke, beat the tar out of it till it does

__________________________________________________ __________

Chrobar,

Ive never had any of my TRX .15 powered trucks able to pull wheelies, unless Im spinning on the dirt and hit the asphalt. They just dont seem to have the low end grunt when not modifide as dannthenitroman stated. Now the 2.5 or 2.5r on the otherhand. is a nonstop, wheelie on demand motor. I had to build a wheelie bar for my Sport after stuffing in the 2.5 to help keep it on its tires. I can have it running over 1/2 throttle, nail it and ride a wheelie. Ill charge up my Dig Cam batts and get you guys some pics. of my machines.

I just upgraded 2 more of my RC's. My JATO 2.5 is now a 3.3 and I put the 2.5 off the JATO on my trusty Tmaxx that Ive had for almost 6 years. They are both ignorant with power now[sm=tongue_smile.gif] Just like my Sport was when I did the 2.5 conversion.

Viper87

Blackfoot,

Thanks again, Help is always appreciated. You know more than me and that is all that counts. I am always up for learning something good especially something that will help someone else later down the road.

I never got a DVD I will have to check on that. I ordered mine from Tower (Much better Deal). I still heavily support my LHS. I am of your thought on that.

Viper87

chrobar

Yea i never got a DVD with my nitro sport either, i think it only come with the other trucks.

shadowsilverxe

Hi Blackfoot! I just ordered 4 dirt hawgs for my nitro sport. I had run the rear stock tires to near bald. I thought maybe you (or anyone else) would know about the wheel size, does the nitro sport have the same size wheel for front and back? The guy at hobbytown said fronts are 2.2 and rear are 2.8 but I would swear they are the same.
Here is the same video, shorter but with music of my nitro sport.
http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....f1e369a511148f

Blackfoot

Yes, they are 2.2 front and rear. JATOS and the New Electric Rustlers and Stampedes XL-5's run the 2.8's. That guy at Hobbytown should go back to bagging at Wal*Mart. LOL

Cool Vid you got there. I wish I had desert to run on. Were supposed to be getting some snow tonite here.[:@] Nitros are fun in the snow with skiis and paddle tires, but I hate the cold.

Viper87

What can be used for cleaning the chassis after runs in the dirt? I think it is running pretty rich because there is lots of wet dirst sticking everywhere on the chassis after i am out. Is there a certain solvent or cleaner that is best to use?

Nitro trucks are a close second to my electric sport flyers!

Thanks for the help,

Viper87