wolfgang123

ok well i posted a thread a while back and i just wanted to start all over so hear it goes. I have a whats most likely the most problematic (I DONT KNOW??) GT2 on this forum i cant drive this thing so more than 25 min with out something breaking or some batteries going dead and, i just end up have a run away GT2. Any way last last weak i installed a tiger drive starting system and when i installed it i loosend the exchaust pipe to remove it then i relaized i did not have to remove it so i retightened the exchaust pipe and installed the tiger drive. Then i went to start the car and saw fuel coming out of the engine wear the exchaust attaches so i check the bolts and they had come loose so i tightened them. The have never come loose sence then but even before all this after my car would warm up it would bog when i gave it full throttle from the get go and when i got it to WOT it would seem to bog out. Of course i thought this was a lean bog so i richened up the engine and it just got worse, then i put it back to the way i had it before, wasnt any better, then i tried leaning it and it got worse after about 7 failed attempts to tune it thought about a week long period i got my tiger drive in the mail and thats when the above story comes into play. So now i dont only have a high idle that i cant seem to loower but my car will over heat to steaming yes steaming in like 10 minutes, not even that much time i dont think i am just guessing i have not run the car since them and at this point i ahve no clue what to do. I am kinda sure i have and air leak so i think i might but some like silicon selant and put it on the exchaust but i dont know. By the way i onl have like 1 and a half gallons of 20% through the darn car so i dont think it is time for a rebuild if you guys whant to see a vid i can get on in like 30 minutes of you asking (SPRING BREAK) so yea nay help would be greatly appericated.

Thanks
wolfie

p.s i know that was a really long and most likely confussing post but i am just really flustered right now

wolfgang123

i Dont know why i titled this as i motor rebuild i am stupid sorry

avg_joe

Sounds like you need to tear down, clean up, and seal everything.
Eliminate any possible sources of leakage. That way you aren't guessing, and you only gotta tear it apart once.
Once you have sealed the backplate, carb, and exhaust...Move on to the fuel lines...
The easiest way to check a fuel line is to 'check' it into the garbage can, and install new.
Make sure the tank lid seals nice and tight, and make sure the nipple on the exhaust isn't leaking.
When that is all done, reset the carb to the factory settings, and try to tune from there.

If nothing else seems to work, then maybe it is time for a re-build. The learning curve is pretty steep when you start nitro, and often times costs an engine to learn what not to do.

wolfgang123

ok what kind of selent do you reccomend

wolfgang123

Another thing is it possible for an engine to over heat from being too rich

avg_joe

Any gasket maker from the auto parts store that says it's sensor safe. A thin bead around the backplate, and the carb.

I don't think an overly rich setting can cause overheating. It is usually from running lean.

Nick2618

Also when you screw in teh exaust header back on use thread locker on it so it dose not back out. And another thing check the gasket on the exaust casue it might be bad. I am pretty sure you can use threadlocker on the backplate too. Do NOT threadlock the engine head on thou...

wolfgang123

ok thanks guys do any of you know any good videos or guides on how to do this thes are the best i could find

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epylG...C505E&index=11

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP6l3...C505E&index=22

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZpIt...C505E&index=23

wolfgang123

this is my shopping cart so far do you guys think i will need anything else for this

wolfgang123

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AANXHC

would this work

avg_joe

That would be fine for gasket maker.
The rest of your list is fine too, except that I would run a better air filter. That one is good enough, but a good filter, like a MotorSaver would be a good upgrade.

wolfgang123

so what about something like this

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLDC6&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNJD2&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBF97&P=7

misasi

stick with the ae filter its very good. the motor saver will not be that big of an improvement. plus you can walk into and auto parts store and pick up that paper element for dirt cheap. Just order extra foams.

now my first nitro came with the ae .15 and i almost quit the hobby because that motor is so hard to tune. seal up your carb and then set it back to defaults. i would then lean HSN 1 turn and then start to tune from there.

that ae motor is a pain to tune but i was able to run that thing balls out an entire summer rarely making changes once i had it running right.

watch both these vids and pay really close attention to the sound of the motors:
[link=http://youtube.com/watch?v=oSmMzpZM_As&feature=related]vid 1[/link]
[link=http://youtube.com/watch?v=BJFsJAxNoRg&feature=related]vid2[/link]

wolfgang123

i have seen those videos i put them on my cell phone... i know what you mean by the engines are hard to tune but i know who to tune a car and i think for the most part i know what one shood sound like. so my question now is i have removed and clean the engine from my car, i thought i take a pic of the piston and post it to see if its alright. but other than that i dont really know where i should put the seleant so if anyone know please tell me.

thanks
wolfie

avg_joe

A thin bead around the base of the carb, and a thin bead around the backplate.
Also, if you have taken the head off, or if you plan on it...Make sure the head goes back on square, and that you tighten the bolts in a 'star pattern' a little at a time. It should take at least 3 times around before all the bolts are tight, and 2 more times to make sure.

wolfgang123

ok so i will remove my tiger start then the backplate and put it on there just a little then i will remove my carb and put the seleant on wear the carb attaches to the engine then i will put it on where my exchaust attachs to the engine then i will remove the head have a look and i will make sure i dont loose any shims the reinstall in a star pattern is that all right.

avg_joe

The color of the top of the piston will tell how well it has been running, but other than that....It's the fit with the sleeve that determines wear.
Roll the flywheel with your finger against the compression of the engine with the glo-plug in. With steady pressure, it shouldn't leak pressure quickly.
If there is no pressure, or it bleeds away quickly, then a new piston/sleeve is in order.

avg_joe

Thread lock the exhaust manifold bolts, and the engine mount screws, but not the carb screw, or the head mount screws.

And don't get any crud inside of the engine[:@]. One little grain of sand can wreak havoc with engine guts.

wolfgang123

ok i dont really understand that could you make that a simpler please i am still pretty new to this. and for thread locker would blue lock tight be ok

rclynx

Only thing I have to say is never use Red on an RC car [&o]

avg_joe

He utters great wisdom, once again.

avg_joe

I can try to explain better, but you gotta understand...with my Italian blood, it's gonna be hard for you to see my hands moving

When you turn the flywheel with your hand, it goes pop every once in a while, and gets harder to turn right before it goes pop.
That is the compression of the air/fuel mixture on the upstroke of the piston. The piston and the sleeve need to be tight enough to create a seal to do the whole compression thing, and if your engine is too worn out, it won't create a seal low enough in the 'pinch zone' to create enough compression for proper combustion.

wolfgang123

oohh ok i get it i know what your talking about but how do i know if it has enough compression

wolfgang123

should i remove this part



and put the seleant on the back of it

avg_joe

Yes.