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Selfmade Drillstart Help
Quick question. I'm trying to make a drillstart conversion for my old Sandmaster's GT12SCR engine. It's got a 6mm crankshaft, and I've still got the oneway bearing. Long story short, the one-way bearing is a 14mm Hex-Nut, so I've tooled up a drill to socket peice so I can connect the drill to the socket, then onto the oneway bearing. Now, for the life of me, I can't get the motor to start! The Pullstarter would crank the engine clockwise, so I set the bearing in there to have it lock and turn the engine when turned clockwise, as well. Sadly, I can hear the motor sputter like it want's to start, but the oneway tries to turn the drill as well? I'm not exactly sure how the pullstarter went about doing things, so I was hoping one of you could enlighten me as how exactly I'd fix this. Thanks!
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RE: Selfmade Drillstart Help
I just did this to my RC-10. Same set-up as you, except I needed a 13mm socket. Here's the problem:
You need to fix the one-way bearing in the socket some how, as otherwise it will stay on the engine shaft when you pull the drill away. The problems with that should be obvious. Another bad deal is that I used three different adapters to hook everything together. As long as the torrington bearing was 'loose' in the socket, the slight wobble/runout caused by the mis-matched parts was no biggee. But once the bearing was "locked" into the socket (I used PFM), it now had a hell of a strain on it due to not running true. Those torrington bearings in the recoil starters are not the best quality; it was apparent that this set-up would not last long. So I bit the bullet and bough a Yank Eliminator. Making your own systems is fun, and that's what modeling is all about. But sometimes you're better off just plunking down the cash...;) Assuming you're getting fuel and fire, sounds like you need a faster drill, pal. . |
RE: Selfmade Drillstart Help
ORIGINAL: Steve Campbell I just did this to my RC-10. Same set-up as you, except I needed a 13mm socket. Here's the problem: You need to fix the one-way bearing in the socket some how, as otherwise it will stay on the engine shaft when you pull the drill away. The problems with that should be obvious. Another bad deal is that I used three different adapters to hook everything together. As long as the torrington bearing was 'loose' in the socket, the slight wobble/runout caused by the mis-matched parts was no biggee. But once the bearing was "locked" into the socket (I used PFM), it now had a hell of a strain on it due to not running true. Those torrington bearings in the recoil starters are not the best quality; it was apparent that this set-up would not last long. So I bit the bullet and bough a Yank Eliminator. Making your own systems is fun, and that's what modeling is all about. But sometimes you're better off just plunking down the cash...;) Assuming you're getting fuel and fire, sounds like you need a faster drill, pal. . |
RE: Selfmade Drillstart Help
Hmmm; that doesn't sound good.
I looked, and sure enough, the cage is plastic. Oh, well; it's paid for now... Used it today, and it worked like a champ. I'll keep my fingers crossed. If/when it does puke, I've got a machinist buddy who can pull the bearing and install a better one. Alpine Bearing has some primo torringtons on hand. One thing about torrington bearings is that they must be kept well-lubed, with medium-viscosity oil. The only thing worse than no lube is using grease. That will kill one in a hurry. . |
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