holes for bodymounts
#2
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Before painting I mock up the body and place these
over each body post, that way your holes are easy as you dont have to look for the little dimples which can sometimes be a real pain to find. To make the hole a body reamer is a great tool!

#3
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Location: Budd Lake, NJ
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The best way to make the holes that I have found is with an awl and a blow tourch.
I heat up the awl Until it is nice and hot, then it goes right through the body, and awls are usually tapered so the further you push it in, the pigger the hole. The holes come out perfectly round.
Then just clean up the holes with an exacto knife.
I used to use a soldering iron, but I got tired of getting it all gummed up, and I had to buy new tips so I could use it for what it is ment for, soldering LoL.
I also have found the most easy way to clean the burnt plastic off the awl. You heat it up almost read hot, only takes about 30 seconds, the dows it in water, the plastic comes right off because the metal contracts rapidly. then just a scotch bright pad to brighten it up. this way you dont make dirty holes.
As for putting those reinforcing thingies, thats a great idea. Just take a spacer that is about a 1/2" with a hole that fits the body peg, that is about 1/4 to 3/8 thick. put it on the pegs, this way you can put the reinforcing thingy on it upside down on it, and then you can line up the body and rest it down on where the pegs are, and the reinforcing thingies will stick in the spot you set the body down.
I heat up the awl Until it is nice and hot, then it goes right through the body, and awls are usually tapered so the further you push it in, the pigger the hole. The holes come out perfectly round.
Then just clean up the holes with an exacto knife.
I used to use a soldering iron, but I got tired of getting it all gummed up, and I had to buy new tips so I could use it for what it is ment for, soldering LoL.
I also have found the most easy way to clean the burnt plastic off the awl. You heat it up almost read hot, only takes about 30 seconds, the dows it in water, the plastic comes right off because the metal contracts rapidly. then just a scotch bright pad to brighten it up. this way you dont make dirty holes.
As for putting those reinforcing thingies, thats a great idea. Just take a spacer that is about a 1/2" with a hole that fits the body peg, that is about 1/4 to 3/8 thick. put it on the pegs, this way you can put the reinforcing thingy on it upside down on it, and then you can line up the body and rest it down on where the pegs are, and the reinforcing thingies will stick in the spot you set the body down.
#4

inverteds right a body reamer is the best
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJGU5&P=RF
also its allot eiser to cut and mount ur body before its painted
some bodys dont have the dimples (or if ur using a body for a diffrent car the dimples dont always match up) so jut line the body up then usse the body reamer to start the holes right above the mounts its really pretty simple + doing it this way u wont scratch ur new paint job trying to cut and mount the body
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJGU5&P=RF
also its allot eiser to cut and mount ur body before its painted
some bodys dont have the dimples (or if ur using a body for a diffrent car the dimples dont always match up) so jut line the body up then usse the body reamer to start the holes right above the mounts its really pretty simple + doing it this way u wont scratch ur new paint job trying to cut and mount the body
#5
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I say body reamer too, you don't have to go all the way through, just enough of a mark to see before painting. There will be some disagreement with other guys here, but if you go all the way through the body you have to worry about the paint bleeding through the outside over-spray film. I do all the rest of the trimming 100% before paint.
#6
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For putting the holes in the body, I agree the body reamer is the way to do it. But for marking the holes, I drop the lid on it's intended chassis, line it up where I want it, and mark where the posts are with a sharpie. Once the paintjob is done (before you remove the protective film) ream the holes. Has worked every time so far. The hole punch reinforcements will work just the same. But I learned the hard way that you dont want to try and find the posts after the paint is done. It's nearly impossible to get it to sit just the way you want.
#7
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Cut the body out and sit it on the truck/car before you lay down the paint. Postion the body where you want it then take a paint pen and simply put a dot where each post touches the body (dot will be on the outside of the body. Bodies come with clear wrap over them so you dont have to worry about the dots after paint.
Paint it and then drill out the holes on the dot's after its painted with a small 1/8" drill bit, followed by a body reamer to the correct size hole. Peel off the clear film and bingo your done
Paint it and then drill out the holes on the dot's after its painted with a small 1/8" drill bit, followed by a body reamer to the correct size hole. Peel off the clear film and bingo your done
