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Aluminium and Titanium

Old 03-12-2008, 01:49 AM
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Toki
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Default Aluminium and Titanium

does anyne know the best way to take the factory finish off of these two metals. i am talking about the electro plating or whatever the blues, reds , purples etc. colors you see. i have ordered a couple titanium parts but they are the wrong color. i got $150.00 worth of parts for $20.00. i know sanding down from 200 to 800 grit will be tough. i was just wondering if anyone knew a better way? i am lazy..........

i have heard easy off oven cleaner works has anyone tried this or knows of something like this that works?

i know once you break the finish on aluminium the sanding is very nice all the way up to 800 grit and looks like a mirror. i have never done it with titanium. i know it is a much stronger metal
Old 03-12-2008, 02:06 AM
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Default RE: Aluminium and Titanium

Sorry i did not mention this before but i got my parts from. http://www.stormerhobbies.com/ they are having a big huge blowout sale on Hard Core Racing items you could never beat the price. so if you have a car that matches one of their products trust me you will thank me and if it is the wrong color well .........lol you will be in my boat. the price is just way to good.
Old 03-14-2008, 11:16 AM
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Default RE: Aluminium and Titanium

anyone?
Old 03-14-2008, 02:25 PM
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hrdcoreglf
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Default RE: Aluminium and Titanium

Anodized coatings can be removed either with a mix of chromic and phosphoric acid or with caustic. The acid mix has the advantage of dissolving only the anodized coating, not the aluminum.
You can strip off the existing anodized layer from any anodized part by placing the part in a caustic solution for an hour or so. Just mix a few tablespoons of lye and water in a plastic container. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves for this procedure!! Place the part in the solution and monitor its progress. The Lye will dissolve the old anodized layer, about .001" thick. It takes a while for it to start breaking through the layer. It's a little slow at first. The first ten minutes or so not much action will be seen. Bubbles and smut will rise up as an indicator of its progress.It is a good idea to help the process along by wiping the smut off the part to allow the acid to get to fresh aluminum. Just wipe off the part with a rag every 5-10 minutes until the old layer is completely gone (wear gloves and goggles). Only bare aluminum should be seen when the part is finished. If the aluminum part turns a dark color then it needs to be desmutted due to its alloy type. For example, 2024 aluminum alloy has 5% copper in it. The lye eats the aluminum off the surface but leaves the copper behind which in turn tarnishes to a dark color. Desmut is the opposite of a caustic solution such as lye. Desmut (normally ferric acid based) eats the non aluminum metals off the surface presenting a purer aluminum surface to be anodized. I include desmut in the advanced anodizing kit for folks doing unknown or non typical 6000 series alloys. It could come in handy and does not hurt to use it on all aluminum alloys. When the part is completely uniform (no remaining spots), rinse it off and buff it back to a shine. Stripping aluminum this way will create a matte finish. polishing it back to it's original surface is up to you. At this point, the part can be re-anodized and dyed any color just like a freshly machined part. Note: if the aluminum part has other metal or steel parts pressed into it, do not re-anodize the part. Metals other than aluminum will dissolve away during the anodizing process.

This is all I could fnd on removal.


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