2nd Body would like advice!
12-04-2008, 08:15 PM
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2nd Body would like advice!
It's been 6 months since I first airbrushed a body. This one is an HPI El Camino. So far it is cut and trimmed, holes drilled, masking done and Jackal internal graphics applied and backed with white. I was originally going to paint the main color electric blue but I was playing around with a few colors and tried some Tamiya clear orange on a scrap piece. I backed half with white, the othe half with Faskrome. The white side is close to hugger orange. The Faskrome side is a metalic orange. I kind of like the metalic look. Has anyone used the Tamiya clear to paint a body? Did you like the results? Did you thin the paint? I have the Tamiya thinner and was thinking of a 3/1 (paint/thinner) mix. Uncut it seems a little too thick and is hard to spray. Any advice would be appreciated. If it doesn't come out too ugly I'll post some pics when done.
12-10-2008, 11:10 AM
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RE: 2nd Body would like advice!
well in General, what you want is to get the paints to about the Conssistancy of "Milk" for all paints to "Spray well"...
as a "Custom Automotive" painter we use both "Airbrushes and Air guns"....with about 96% of painting with "Airbrushes"
a good start is a 1:1 ratio or a 50/50 mix.....the air guns a 2:1 is better....
also be sure to use the recommended thinners for the given paints....
also if using "Faskolors" try using "AutoAir" there the Manufacture parma kinda gets it in "Raw form and dups it in a bottle so you still
need to thin it...kinda like trying to drink a McDonalds milk shake through a coffee sturring stick...
but there usually around the same price to around a dollar more? but you get more i will include a pic for an example...
here's a link to AutoAir and can even see some of our work though various parts on the site as well as others of the water based paints.... www.autoaircolors.com
but even with Faskolors try using the 4011 Flash Reducer - Fast Dry
it's a Reducer for the entire Auto Air Colors line,but will work with faskolors as it is "AutoAir" just in "Raw form"
Improves flow, decreases dry-tip and improves atomization of colors.
Reduce colors roughly 10% per volume for use with spray guns and 25% or more per volume for use with airbrushes.
or roughly 2:1 airbrush...(2 parts paint ,1 part reducer)
For use with small tip-sizes of 0.3mm and less, some colors may be reduced in excess of 100% per volume.
but the Tamiya be sure to use there Thinners...
hope this can help....
as a "Custom Automotive" painter we use both "Airbrushes and Air guns"....with about 96% of painting with "Airbrushes"
a good start is a 1:1 ratio or a 50/50 mix.....the air guns a 2:1 is better....
also be sure to use the recommended thinners for the given paints....
also if using "Faskolors" try using "AutoAir" there the Manufacture parma kinda gets it in "Raw form and dups it in a bottle so you still
need to thin it...kinda like trying to drink a McDonalds milk shake through a coffee sturring stick...
but there usually around the same price to around a dollar more? but you get more i will include a pic for an example...
here's a link to AutoAir and can even see some of our work though various parts on the site as well as others of the water based paints.... www.autoaircolors.com
but even with Faskolors try using the 4011 Flash Reducer - Fast Dry
it's a Reducer for the entire Auto Air Colors line,but will work with faskolors as it is "AutoAir" just in "Raw form"
Improves flow, decreases dry-tip and improves atomization of colors.
Reduce colors roughly 10% per volume for use with spray guns and 25% or more per volume for use with airbrushes.
or roughly 2:1 airbrush...(2 parts paint ,1 part reducer)
For use with small tip-sizes of 0.3mm and less, some colors may be reduced in excess of 100% per volume.
but the Tamiya be sure to use there Thinners...
hope this can help....
