alexchen86

Well time to paint my third body...but this time it will be two tone which I am a little apprehensive on....

It will be for a TT-01E Nissan GTR R35

The body will be metallic dark pink (Tamiya) and also metallic dark gunmental (Tamiya). The gunmetal will be for the grill and side skirts and bottom of the rear bumper...basically the body kit gunmetal and the body in pink....for my girlfriend btw

Any tips?

I know to shoot gunmetal first as it is the darker color....but how do i mask the inside? Will the blue 3Mpainter's masking tape work? And then shoot the gunmetal trim....after that dries overnight (to be safe).....I will shoot the pink and cover the metallic gunmetal as well w/o masking will that be okay?

Or will that lighten or darken the gunmetal color? The gunmetal color is to match the gunmetal rim stock color...

Druss

First, since you're in texas I'm assuming the temps are still pretty warm, you probably only have to wait 30 to 40 minutes between coats.

Make sure they are light... light coats. After the first coat you should basically be thinking to yourself... there's no way that's dark enough....

You should have to do 3-4 coats to get the final color you want. Then back it in black before doing the pink. Once you have it backed in black you don't need to mask anymore. When you're done the 3-4 (maybe even 5) coats of pink back that in white.

Masking tape will work but make sure you run your fingernail or a credit card along the edge to make sure you get no leaking. Also, light colors, like pink, would show finger prints more so you might want to clean the body again after you're done the black and before painting the pink.

I personally suggest using a liquid mask but it's up to you.

alexchen86

The thing with the gunmetal is that it is a shade darker than the rims so would I want to back it in black before spraying the pink?

Or can I just let the gunmetal dry and then spray the pink and then back all of it in white?

Thanks

t9dragon

My Feedback: (11)

There is also a "green" painters tape that holds a better edge then the "blue" painters tape.

Druss

Depends on how many coats of gun metal you put on. The black is really just to prevent any pink from showing through, with gun metal it won't make it any darker than it already is. The other choice is you can back it with silver before doing pink.

alexchen86

If I put enough coats of gunmetal (4-5 coats) and let them completely dry do I have to back it with anything before spraying the pink? I really do not want to go out and have to shell out more money on paint.....

Btw I am using all Tamiya paints so they cover very well...also shooting about 4-6 coats of pink would I really need to back up that in white at the end?

Thanks!

Druss

Completely up to you whether you back any color but I can tell you it does make a difference. Especially on lighter colors, backing with white makes them "pop".

raceshift

is there any pics of whats going on here

alexchen86

Haha sorry no pics yet...

But this is the body


And instead of metallic silver on the body Iam using this

Tamiya TS-59 Pearl Light Red (Almost a metallic lavendar color)
http://www.kitkraft.biz/product.php?productid=6768

And on the trim and body kit I am using
Tamiya TS-38 Gunmetal
http://www.kitkraft.biz/product.php?productid=6994

But unfortunately I just realized that I should have went for PSpaint codes....does anyone know if TS is okay on Lexan?

Also my LHS guy said to use Pactra's white flourescent covercoat for the lavendar color as backing instead of white since it's metallic?

I am using Pactra's backing black paint to back the gunmetal to make sure the lavendar doesn't shoot through spots I may have missed in the gunmetal.

Tamiya

Druss

TS paints won't work. They are designed for rigid plastic for static models and will chip in a crash. See if you can exchange them for the PS paints.

alexchen86

Thank you so much Druss!!! My God I was about to pop those cans open tonight!!! Will exchange them tomorrow haha that's what I thought since I remember my Tamiya DF-03Ra I sprayed with a PS-16 Metallic Blue and I have heard that chipping occurs when you use paints meant for plastics!

Mr.SelfDestruct

Lexan paints (Polycarbonate) is flexible. It will bend with each crash. Also, it's a good idea to back all your coats anyways. I know it's more money for paint, but it will make the color (specially if you're doing a pink) show up better and it gives it a little bit more protection. If a tiny rock spits up from the wheel and scratches the inside, the cover coat will be scratched instead of the pink/gun metal color you're doing. It won't stop everything though. After a while of bashing you'll be glad you put a cover coat on either way.

alexchen86

You know what guys...for some super odd reason those paints I listed as TS were actually PS!!!

So I sprayed a couple of bodies this weekend and just finished the Lotus Elise 190mm with all decals and stripes and spoiler...working on the GTR R35 as that will be the hardest job....

Thank You

t9dragon

My Feedback: (11)

Let's see pics of the finished body........

alexchen86

Will do...still working on light buckets but the Elise is one sweet body I am using it as my beater rally body on the DF-03Ra and also as a beater body for my girlfriend to practice on her TT-01E I finished for her this weekend....can't let her wreck the GTR R35 body if I spend like 6 hours doing the entire job!

Hahahaha

Mr.SelfDestruct

Which method are you going for light buckets? Just scrap lexan?

Druss

Not sure who makes that particular body but both HPI and Tamiya R35's come with light buckets.

alexchen86

Okay guys pictures galore....

HPI Lotus Elise GT body (190mm) finished minus the light buckets which came with the HPI package that I have not painted yet...btw I had to heavy modify the rear wheel wells to make the body fit on the car....I rushed the process and did not drill the mounting holes correctly so I had cut the wheel wells funny to make the body fit. This body will be used on the DF-03Ra and also the TT-01E for practicing.

HPI Subaru STI (200mm) body finished a while back with bucket lights installed and siliconed with wing mounted on Sprint 2 Flux.

Tamiya Subaru WRC (190mm) body finished and watersealed light buckets all around and circuit boards ballooned for DF-03Ra

Working on paint right now with Tamiya (190mm) GTRR35 Body...which will be on the TT-01E doing grill work first.

I threw in chassis pics as well...working on waterproofing everything both the TT-01E and the DF-03Ra

gpix13

My Feedback: (4)

I like the paint jobs on the Green Lotus with the offset racing stripe and the black subaru, it looks really sharp. Good stuff.

alexchen86

gpix13,

Wow this post was so old I forgot to update the new finished pics of the 3 rides....the GTR I painted is beautiful.

I just used regular blue painters tape since I am broke and do not have the patience for liquid mask.

Here's how I did the GTR:

Masked everything except the grill. Shot the grill with 3 layers of gunmetal metallic after letting it dry per layer and used a hair dryer to quicken the process. Then backed it with 2 coats of black backing paint.

Then unmasked all the tape and sprayed the entire body with pink/red/gold iridescent flake paint and used up the entire can 3-4 coats. Then backed it all with white backing paint 2 coats. Then backed the white with an additional can 3-4 coats of burgundy. The GTR changes color from gold to pink to yellow every angle. That is a TT-01E for my girlfriend and she loves it.

The offset yellow paint is just a decal btw for the HPILotus Elise body. Here are all my 3 cars I painted.

gpix13

My Feedback: (4)

alex,

ryan86

Alex,
Nice job you did on your cars.
I just bought my first Kit (Happens to be the TT-01 E Skyline like yours)
I have put it together but now im working on the body. I have got some colors in mind but was wondering what do i do with the spoiler/mirrors??
I know it sounds obvious to just paint it ( as it comes grey), but is it as straight forward?? Use the same paint as the body?? Do you have to put a clear coat on it after??
Probably an easy question to answer, but after seeing your cars, i dont want to bodge mine up.
Thanks,
Ryan

alexchen86

ryan86,

I have been doing plastic modeling for many years and also working on real car interior trim as well. I have found the best way is obviously prep work. 90% of a paint job is in prep.

Make sure all your mirrors and spoiler are wet sanded a bit to a point where they are a little braised. You can buy wetsand paper from any Walmart. Then shoot it with either regular auto primer for plastic trim or use clear plastic adhesive primer. (I used clear plastic adhesive primer)

Primer is very important after wetsanding. It will cover up the abrasions. After that spray about 2 coats of primer and work one piece at a time. Wear a latex glove and hold it where the tabs fit inside the body that way you do not get any smudges on the paint. Let each coat dry completely before spraying the next coat. Use a hairdryer to quicken the process. The last primer coat let it sit overnight.

Next day shoot all the mirrors and spoiler with whatever color you want. In my case I shot it black to match with the trim on the car. (One coat for this is enough...or 2 if you want).

I know it's a pain in the ass to do all of this especially for just 3 pieces haha. This is my show body btw so it doesn't get much running. I have other bodies I use when I run the TT-01E (it's my girl's car anyway).

Word of caution: Since you are using auto paint it is very thick. Use light mists!! Btw it's cheaper than hobby paint too since you are working on ABS plastic.

ryan86

Alex,
Thanks heaps for quick reply.
All that work for 3 peices!! lol, easier to paint the car the same color as the spoiler/mirrors!
Ahh well, will be worth it in the end.
Thanks again, Ryan 

alexchen86

No problem man. Post some pics when you finish!