tuny

Dean:

-there is no instructions for the passport, I can make a copy of my rudder if you like.

-I see there is a wing fairing on your fuse, looks nice, but I think it should be placed only after the wing incidence is set. you may end with a gap there...

-here is my opinion on the split rudder:
We always use rudder servos with about 200 oz. of torque, and I dont think two small servos can take this. thats my opinion...
The split rudder works great on knife edge fligth, the botom side stay in place while the top part is the one that moves.

-T can: works great, but I like to fly and trim the plane whitout any "helpers" after that maybe I will use one to improve rudder authority


Jim where did your CG ended??

REGARDS!

TUNY

handglider

My Feedback: (23)

HI tuny,

my incidences are set and the wing and stab roots are finished. I am assuming the wings are set at +.5. The plane was partially built by an experienced builder and it looks really good.

I think I may not do the split rudder.

But I'll do the sfgs without the t-can....

Patterndude1

Dean on Todds website he has the incidence angles (Degrees) for the stabs and wings if you need them.



Matt

FlyingWorks

Hi Jim!

Wondering about the following:

1. Aerodynamic fairing for wing placement in Dean's fuselage, assuming it was in place (Recommended wing positive incidence), it is neat flow device...
2. Have you test your ship without the T-Canalizer and/or changing its incidence?

Regards!

Federico

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

I'm using the Futaba 9650's on my split rudder. So is Todd. They work great. No need for anything larger. As far as the effectiveness of the split rudder, it really works nicely for the entire flight with the exception of the stall turn (yes, I use the split rudder mode on snap rolls). In the stall turn I use both halves in tandem just like a standard rudder. For all other maneuvers the split rudder works by having one side move and the other one track it by 10%-15%. They both move, but one side only moves slightly.

That being said, keep in mind that we are using electric power. I don't think the 9650 would take the beating of a 4-stroke IC engine.

handglider

My Feedback: (23)

Just want to thank everybody that posted and PMed offering support and help.

I'll be getting things lined up for the build - it really looks like 3 or 4 days and I will have her ready for prime.

Question - What is the ultimate best epoxy resin to use for the fuse assembly?

Still looking for a photo of an AXI install - please send a link

I'll get some pics of the plane assembled and check the incidences... The fuse fairings do look good. and are about 1/4 thick...

My other big question - is the Stab on the centerline of the fuse? - I would like to know where my center line is back there of the fin post.... It looks like the stab is on the centerline.

Is the canopy saddle parallel to the centerline? - I am just trying to figure out what I can use for a reference line ....

I don't see a electric passport build over on the electric forum so I will move my build off Tunys once I get started.

thanks again all....

Patterndude1

Trying to find it for you right now Dean, you could probably use a spyder mount, cut the firewall out and attach it to all four sides of the motor compartment. I cut the firewalls out of my pass ports, but that is because I don't use them and also helps with cooling.

toddblose

My Feedback: (10)

Yes, I set the canopy saddle at O and the stab to that. The wings should be +.5

Patterndude1

Dean could you email me your phone number, I think I lost it.

handglider

My Feedback: (23)

Here are some detail pics and the plane assembled.

The wing fairings are done nicely, I can go back and make them just perfect, just a little more detail sanding here and there.

The factory wing panels are a little on the heavy side at about 13 ozs which might mean 16 oz flying.

Everything is done really nice and clean. And TIGHT. Really seems like a got a RTC plane and not a kit.

AS far as I can tell the plane is perfectly aligned and at the proper incidences.

I only have to finish the wing tips and sfgs - and tip cap the rudder. Every thing is already rough sanded and ready to go.

On the fuse the work to be done is the canopy attachment, motor mount, landing gear mount and battery and radio trays.

There are 2 carbon/nomex fuse formers the original builder installed, they look good - the bare fuse is at 32 oz.

Everything looks great and I really don't need much to finish the build..... Thanks Jon !


question - is there any source for un-sheeted pass-port foam wing cores? I could save about 10 -12 oz with lighter wing panels...

handglider

My Feedback: (23)

Okay...

The Passport has set the standard for all time HUGE-NESS !

Compared to the BM VF3 the fuse height of the Passport is half an inch taller at 14"

Oh, The Passport has an awesome presence in my shop, the cool look of this plane really has me excited about the build,

Hey everybody - I'll try and not do the love fest thing till I get it over on my own thread... I promise,

thanks everybody.....


edited - the Black Magic VF3 is actually 13 1/2 tall.... my mistake...

handglider

My Feedback: (23)

I've got a really good vector outline now....

tuny

more updates...

more colors painted, green and red.

pics.

Patterndude1

Dean, that looks sweat inside your shop, you are really going to like that plane when you fly it.

Tuny yours like really nice also, your getting pretty close.



Matt

toddblose

My Feedback: (10)

Looks great Tuny, how many more colors left

wattsup

My Feedback: (1)

handglider, I've been following this thread from the start and have a couple of questions for you. Is this Passport fuse a prototype of the current/available design based on what appears to be wing fairings & are these the stock wings & stabs? There seem to be some differences in your kit & tuny's kit. Thanks________TNWalker

handglider

My Feedback: (23)

Hi Everette,

It's a basic kit that has been modified with the wing fairings and a reinforced rear fuselage.

It doesn't have much carbon in the front area, I will be laying in some 2 and 3oz carbon in the front area. I am also figuring either a AXI or NUE install.

wattsup

My Feedback: (1)

handglider, You are very astute! If this is the same plane that came out of Louisiana, I feel certain you'll have a plane you can be proud of because my friend Jim Thompson
did all the work. Everyone knows he & Bryan Hebert are terrific builders! Good Luck with the finishing & keep us up to date with your progress. Regards_________TNWalker

handglider

My Feedback: (23)

Jim and Jon did a fine job, this plane will be AWESOME !!!!

tuny

Thanks Toddblose!!! I think this will answer you question..... painting is done!!

now covering the rudder and install everithing again...

pictures.

handglider

My Feedback: (23)

Hi Tuny,

your paint looks amazing !

nice choice of color and great line work. Really love that metallic green, great work.

very nice !!!!

tuny

Thanks Dean!!!

more.

-covered the rudder
-glued the hinges to the rudder and fuse, at the same time using 30 min epoxy, this way I could align correctly the hinges so I can remove the rudder.
-elev servos extensions.
-there shoud be 6 cables going back there, but I think they are not necesary, positive and negative can be shared and two separate signal wires, this way I save the weight of two cables going all the way back there.
-I holded the extensions with cable ties
- Installed the receiver while the rudder servo is not in place, this way is easyer to work, tha receiver is back there to be as far away as possible from the carbon (all the front fuse is carbon)

pics..

tuny

more..

tuny

More.... or should I say... FINALLY! after about 4 months its ready!!

-added some foam to the cowling to help cooling and to reduce noise.
-installed all the components in the fuse.
-set the incidences and checked the CG, my battery ended up behind the rudder servo to achieve balance.
-made a battery tray.
-added an extra conector to my battery to use the redundant system on the switch, in my oppinion there is no need to use 2 batteries, thats just double weigth, the redundancy is needed in the components betwen the battery and the receiver.

ready to fligth weigth is 4.560g

fligth report and more pics on weekend.

jonlowe

My Feedback: (12)

Tuny,
Looks great! Let us know how it flies.

Watch those springs on your muffler mount. I've had two break at the point where they exit the clamp on the side of the muffler. I had bent the spring a little similar to what you did to fit your spread out plastic standoffs, and that seems to weaken the wire. They chrome plated the springs which decreases the fatigue resistance of the music wire, and makes the problem worse. If you look at chrome plating under high power magnification, it has tiny fissures all over its surface which can generate fatigue cracks. Chrome plating can also cause hydrogen embrittlement of the wire. I had the muffler fall out of my Aggressor once, but was fortunate and found it. The second time I caught the problem just before the wire let loose. I went back to the standard Hatori mount on my new Osmose. I recommend that if you use that mount, don't bend the wire at all, and reposition the plastic standoffs. I like the wire mount for convenience, but I wish they'd either stop chrome plating the wire, or maybe someone will make replacement springs out of more fatigue resistant wire. For now, I'll just cut a couple of tie wraps each time I need to remove the muffler!

What did your wing panels end up weighing, ready to fly?

Good luck!