How old is the engine and the piston-ring.

Some years ago I bought two small units in OOmodel in china, great service BTW. This units are,

A hall sensor simulator, you just plug the hall sensor connector to this unit, and it fires the plug, you can turn the dial and increase-decrease the firing rate(RPM).
The other unit is similar to those used for checking the timing on full size aircraft engines, it has a LED and buzzer when the hall sensor pass the magnet.

This two tools are very cheap, so cheap shipping was more than the units, so bought units as spares..... I think both are around $7.

Regards

Please ..... Mavros doesn't mind at all you are not hijacking anything.

Knowledge is Power.

rgds:D

Hey Drac,

How far out is your high speed needle ?

rgds

1 1/2 turns on one engine and 2 turns on the other one.

Why the difference I wonder....

My Brake in procedure is to run 2 tank full of fuel 20% oil no nitro on the ground.
Slowly increasing the RPM .
Mixture 2 1/2 - 3 turns out

Slow idle for 5 minutes then high idle for 5 minutes occasionally increasing power.for 1 minute
I do this until fuel runs out and let engine cool down with fan.

I check the temperature after each run and make sure its below 60 deg C

Then Fly in aircraft with rich needle slowly leaning until I am happy or should I say until engine is happy.
I always check engine temperature after each flight .
I use my own Fuel 30% NITRO 15 % COOL POWER Lv

After the end of the days flying I run the engine with 20% oil no nitro fuel for 5 minutes and drop a few drops of after run.

With this procedure I get around 150 flights before Bearings start to play up

regards
:D

I did hear that the needles can be different?. Not sure if that is fact or fiction though:rolleyes:.

This is my break in procedure:

Gap the plug to 0.010".
Open main needle to 1 3/4 - 2 turns out.
Set the regulator brass screw flush with the housing.
Open the break in needle around 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.
Use the prop I'm going to fly with.
Once the engine starts, set it at a fast idle for a couple of minutes.
Slowly open the throttle until full throttle is reached. I don't hold it at full throttle for long. If it misfires through the mid range, lean the regulator 1/8th of a turn at a time until it stops misfiring. If it transitions smoothly, I richen the regulator 1/8th turn at a time until it starts to misfire through the mid range, then back it off 1/8th of a turn.
Run at full throttle. Set the main needle to run as rich as possible without misfiring.
Set the idle slow as possible while still being reasonably smooth.
When the engine transitions and runs at full throttle without misfiring, let it idle. If it slows down noticeably, lean the reg 1/8th of a turn at a time until it holds a steady idle. If it speeds up richen the reg.
Once it can hold a steady idle, let it idle for 30 - 40 seconds and then open the throttle fairly quickly. If it misfires, lean the reg and vice versa if it just quits.
As soon as it runs, idles and transitions reliably, I fly.
I don't pull big verticals or run at full power for too long for the first few flights.
After 2 flights, I start to gradually lean the reg and needle over the next few flights until the optimum settings are reached, erring on the rich side.
Once tuning is done, close the break in needle to almost fully closed.

i used to run my own mix 30 nitro,10 Coolpower MV. I now use Raoicon 30/10 - Had to lean the reg. 1/2 a turn when I switched to Rapicon.

i don't do anything special at the end of the day. Just empty the tank and run the engine until it stops. I replace bearings and seals every 150 flights.

Where do you get Rapicon and is it only 10 % oil ?

A bit low for my liking...


ps Flew the 185 red cdi today I am getting 7000 rpm on a rich setting with 20.5x10 PN Prop.

Probably can get 100-200 rpm more with leaner mixture let you know if I do later.

Compared to the 175 the mid range torgue on this engine is very impressive and the acceleration is much smoother with much less vibration.
A bloke at the club commented that it was quieter than electric......

rgds

Need to import Rapicon from South Korea. 10% is the standard cdi mix.

20.5 x 10 is too small for the 185, it revs too much. You want to be less than 7000rpm. Try the 21 x 10, you'll love it.

Hello

No problem with low oil.
I use 6 % oil and 20 % nitro on 175 CDI and did a lot of flights without issue.
So after flights it's no necessary to clean the plane.

Do you find the needle is very sensitive with 6% oil?

Hello

I only use low oil on CDI.
So I can compare with DZ and needle is same sentitive as my 170 DZ which has 20 % oil.
Claude

Hi Papaone,

Just wondering how many flights do you get with only 6% oil.I
I just put new bearings in my 175 cdi after about 150 flights and I use 15% oil 30% nitro

rgds

Hello Mavros

I note every flight and incident on a document (I managed inspection and control department when I was working)

The duration of flight is about 15 mn.
YS175 CDI number 1 : now 199 fllghts new bearing at 155 flights
YS175 CDI number 2 : now 121 flights no change bearing.

The fuel I buy in Meccamo has 6 % oil and 25 % nitro.
Friends of mine add 3 % castor oil. So engine is softer.
http://www.meccamo.com/

Claude

Hello all,

I now have 20 flights on the 185 red cdi and WOW this engine is absolutely amazing .
Much better than 175 cdi. Much less vibration and unlimited climb performance in the Galactik.......

I have reduced the oil content down to 12.5% cool power MV . And the break in / hot weather valve is fully closed
No oil residue on airframe after flight......

I am geting 7100 RPM. prop 20.5x10 APC.......still waiting for the bigger prop .

Sorry Papaone but I am not game enough to go any lower on the oil......

Ps: Have you blokes seen the new gadget from YS for fitting the Crankshaft back on....makes bearing change a half hour job

rgds

With the bigger prop, you should see around 68 - 6900.

I considered the crankshaft fitting tool, but decided it's not worth it.
I use a 2 thou feeler guage and 2 small screw drivers.

20 seconds and it's in.

Hello
I'm interested but what is it exactly, I did'nt find the tools
Claude

Hi Claude,

Have a look at

http://www.yspower.co.jp/en/engine/acce.html

Thanks

Keith

The same tool design used to install pistons in a auto engine.

Ken