Dingo Plumbing
 

I have just replaced a YS 140L with a Dingo and have a little problem, my original setup I used 2 fuel dots ( 1 for fueling,1 for pressure) , but with the dingo I need to be able to cutoff fuel to motor after I fuel , any idea what I can do and still use my fuel dots?


Thanks

RE: Dingo Plumbing
 

It is a common practice clamp the fuel line to the engine pump to prevent flooding and also fuel drainback. If you do this you can still use one of the fuel dots to fill the the tank. The "old" pressure line needs to be routed to the bottom of the fuseage as a vent line. In essence the second dot becomes irrelevant.

Some guys are using an MK valve that you can open and close instead of an external clamp.

Regards,

Eric.

RE: Dingo Plumbing
 

My Dingo setup: header tank, check valve, fuel dots, hemostats. I use a 16 oz tank, and a 4 oz header tank. Most people use a 20 oz tank. Either way works well.

RE: Dingo Plumbing
 

FlatFLUKE,

Look at tnewman post on 6-8-04.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_18...tm.htm#1879423

He has a sketch there that will show how he plumbs the DZ.

Sam

RE: Dingo Plumbing
 

Thanks guys ,
although Troys is a nice setup I would prefer not to have fuel line danglin outside fuzz,just doesn look neat.
Dflynt? how are you shutting off fuel in your setup? do u just have to fish for the line through a hole with the clamp?

RE: Dingo Plumbing
 

My solution is post no. 3 on this thread.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_14...tm.htm#1511180

Malcolm

RE: Dingo Plumbing
 

I run my fuel line on the outside and now use one of those small plastic spring loaded clamps which remain permanently on the model. They are small enough so they almost go unnoticed and you never have to worry about looking for them as they always remain on the model. I think a lot of the heli guys use them. What I like is as soon as I land the model, I immediately reach over and clamp the line to avoid any flooding issues.

As for fuel tanks I finally installed a header tank in my model. Prior to the header tank the last part of the flight always made my engine sound rough as it started to suck in air. I had tried all the clunks ie foam, sintered etc with similar results. I tried the header tank for the first time on the weekend and I will never look back. The engine runs perfect from start to end of flight.

Below is picture of my model with external fuel line. Clamp not fitted in this picture. External fuel lines dont look too bad. I like that I can see what is happening. Being able to pinch the fuel line on a DZ while it is running helps adjustment and helps clear a flooded engine.

Dont worry about the looks. It will save you a contest one day.

Peter

RE: Dingo Plumbing
 

Yes. The line is easy to see and reach with the hemostats through the side vent hole. If you do not have a side vent hole, you can cut a small hole in your fuse to accept the hemostats.

To protect the fuel tubing from rupturing, put short lengths of fuel tubing on the pinching ends of your hemostat pliers.

Troy's idea is smarter and easier. The way I did it is more aesthetic -- not that it matters in the air.

RE: Dingo Plumbing
 

Peter,

Interesting that you went to a header tank and it solved your problems. I did not want to push the idea too much, but I started with a header tank for the exact reason that you switched. I have never experience fuel supply problems, and I have never had a dead stick except once when I burned every last drop of fuel out of the main and header tank. The engine gave no indication that I was low on fuel before quitting that one time.

David