Alternative to on/off switches
09-03-2013, 06:17 PM
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Alternative to on/off switches
Ok, im new here, not to the hobby. my father and i are into giant scale warbirds and are curious to any alternatives to the on/off switch, so we could eliminate any possible switch failure. we have seen some individuals use a deans connector that was jumped, but i was curious to any other alternatives, especially ones that would allow checking of the battery. any input would be greatly appreciated. again this is to eliminate the switch because we have had some fail, and with such an investment in money and time, it really irks me to have a 10 dollar switch be the cause of a disaster.
09-04-2013, 11:07 PM
#2
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If you are talking about slide switches - -
An electronics supply house Mouser, Digikey, etc. has various types of slide switches and quality levels.
When reliability is important, the classic solution was to use a multipole switch, with the poles wired in parallel.
Things get more complicated when you need to switch higher currents. Long ago, we actually hand made
a type of "knife switch" for use with higher currents. These days, the parts needed are not that easy to come by.
I suppose it's possible to use some of the high current connector contacts (Such as the Dean's you mentioned)
as a jumper.
An electronics supply house Mouser, Digikey, etc. has various types of slide switches and quality levels.
When reliability is important, the classic solution was to use a multipole switch, with the poles wired in parallel.
Things get more complicated when you need to switch higher currents. Long ago, we actually hand made
a type of "knife switch" for use with higher currents. These days, the parts needed are not that easy to come by.
I suppose it's possible to use some of the high current connector contacts (Such as the Dean's you mentioned)
as a jumper.
09-05-2013, 09:17 AM
#3
If you are talking about a replacement for the switch that operates the receiver, I would offer a different suggestion. Use a Spektrum (or JR) powersafe receiver such as the AR12120. The battery (or batteries) are connected directly to the receiver with heavy gauge wire and connectors... there's no switch in between the two. The receiver is powered on and off by a separate "smart switch" that doesn't carry any current. If that switch fails or becomes disconnected, the receiver remains on. As far as dependability, it is the most robust system that has been produced from a power standpoint. Combine this with a pair of A123/LiFe packs with no regulators and it's the most dependable setup that I can think of.
KennyMac
KennyMac
09-06-2013, 04:26 PM
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yes, i am referring to the slide switch, that receiver seems very viable, but im not ready to spend 250 for new receivers, just trying to see if there is a easier homemade solution if you will. thanks for the replies thus far.
09-06-2013, 11:56 PM
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09-10-2013, 07:09 AM
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Yes you can use a jumper. I used such a system 60 years ago when there were no Deans connectors. I used an earphone plug.
A better idea is to use two switches in parallel. The odds that both would be bad at the same time is very low. Check them before each flight.Just turn one off at a time and see if the receiver stays powered.
A better idea is to use two switches in parallel. The odds that both would be bad at the same time is very low. Check them before each flight.Just turn one off at a time and see if the receiver stays powered.
09-11-2013, 05:45 AM
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I have been using these for years without a single problem and, no, I have no connection with them, Just a satisfied user.
http://www.qualityrcproducts.com/prod_superrocker.html
http://www.qualityrcproducts.com/prod_superrocker.html
09-11-2013, 07:24 PM
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thats interesting, i may have to look into that possibly for the smaller ones to test one out. thanks for the link, just a question, you have not had any issues with them? i see its a lifetime warranty, have you had to use that at all?
09-13-2013, 05:31 AM
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09-13-2013, 06:20 AM
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Shultz21, I have 8 of them in service, some for over 5 years, I have never had a problem caused by them. I have both the single and dual battery with the flashing LED versions.
09-24-2013, 03:41 PM
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Oops forgot these guys, there are probably more.
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/picoswitch
http://www.emsjomar.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/picoswitch
http://www.emsjomar.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6
Things get more complicated when you need to switch higher currents. 
02-15-2014, 10:42 PM
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What is wrong with GR7 Racer's powersafe solution (post #3 )? that's what I use . If the switch fails the receiver stays powered and I like that idea . I am guessing the the biggest downside is that you would only be able to use the Spektrum system because it is a Spektrum Rx
02-15-2014, 11:02 PM
#23
In twenty years in the hobby I have never had a switch fail, Of course it is possible for anything to fail so on my more expensive planes I use two switches and two batteries.
02-16-2014, 09:49 AM
#24
Over the years I've gotten sick of the so-called switches we have in this hobby. I mean most of them are just plain old cheap.
Just yesterday a friend almost lost his 50cc Slick. He was using some Deans knock-offs to connect his batteries. He flys radical 3D, after he landed he went to check something else and found that one of his battery connector had pulled out and the other was partially out. The only thing that saved him was the dual battery setup, but if he had flown a little longer even that would not have been good enough.
Never understood why people would spends hundreds (or thousands) of dollars to set up a plane, then go cheap on something that I would consider the most important part of the plane, the power supply.
I mean the original Deans costs $3-4/set, and the knockoffs cost $1/set. Really???
When I used "regular" switches I made a habit of testing all of them with a load. I had several brand new, so called "good" switches have up to a 2 volt drop with a 4 amp load applied. And lets not even start with the popular servo connections with their 4 amp max rating (which I deem as worthless).
I am electronically inclined (read that as a tech) and I now employ techniques to install and test my entire wiring setup that the masses should not bother to try themselves. Oh, and now most of my fleet has been converted to electric, and all but 1 of my planes use a Dean plug as a power switch. Most are on the outside of the plane as I never leave a plane powered on until its ready to take flight. But I do have some hidden behind a hatch, but the hatch only gets bolted on when ready for flight.
Also, I found it best to load test batteries with a direct connection.
Yes, all of those switches mentioned above have their place. But I prefer k.i.s.s. and I find it really hard to beat the Deans setup for price and performance.
Just yesterday a friend almost lost his 50cc Slick. He was using some Deans knock-offs to connect his batteries. He flys radical 3D, after he landed he went to check something else and found that one of his battery connector had pulled out and the other was partially out. The only thing that saved him was the dual battery setup, but if he had flown a little longer even that would not have been good enough.
Never understood why people would spends hundreds (or thousands) of dollars to set up a plane, then go cheap on something that I would consider the most important part of the plane, the power supply.
I mean the original Deans costs $3-4/set, and the knockoffs cost $1/set. Really???
When I used "regular" switches I made a habit of testing all of them with a load. I had several brand new, so called "good" switches have up to a 2 volt drop with a 4 amp load applied. And lets not even start with the popular servo connections with their 4 amp max rating (which I deem as worthless).
I am electronically inclined (read that as a tech) and I now employ techniques to install and test my entire wiring setup that the masses should not bother to try themselves. Oh, and now most of my fleet has been converted to electric, and all but 1 of my planes use a Dean plug as a power switch. Most are on the outside of the plane as I never leave a plane powered on until its ready to take flight. But I do have some hidden behind a hatch, but the hatch only gets bolted on when ready for flight.
Also, I found it best to load test batteries with a direct connection.
Yes, all of those switches mentioned above have their place. But I prefer k.i.s.s. and I find it really hard to beat the Deans setup for price and performance.
Last edited by wildnloose; 02-16-2014 at 09:53 AM.
02-16-2014, 10:24 AM
#25
When my motors and esc’s became larger I found the deans plugs and their copies limited in high voltage/amperage applications. I have converted to EC style for all my connections. It makes it easy to gang batteries together. And the EC 5's don't heat up as bad as the deans under load. I find the deans work well for about 60 to 70 amps and after that start to get warm. Soldering large diameter wire to the tabs on a deans was a pain in the butt the EC plugs sized to the wire is much easier. The EC plugs in their polarized shell protect against plugging things in backwards just as good as the deans ever did and you can leave them out of the shell and use heat shrink to insulate then you have the right sized bullet connecters for the motor to esc connection. One style connector does it all.
Switches, I have used the high end switch from Electrodynamics for years without any problem. I don’t by the ones with the charge jack built in because I use LifePo 4 receiver packs and use an extended balance lead when I charge. I usually hide the switch inside the structure and use a push pull wire in an antenna tube to turn the power on and off. When these are pulled out/off a clip fits over the wire with a red flag, these have to be removed to allow the switch to be pushed in and turned on.
I too have spent a lot of years in the hobby and never had a slide switch fail. I have replaced them when I felt it was getting questionable.
Dennis
Switches, I have used the high end switch from Electrodynamics for years without any problem. I don’t by the ones with the charge jack built in because I use LifePo 4 receiver packs and use an extended balance lead when I charge. I usually hide the switch inside the structure and use a push pull wire in an antenna tube to turn the power on and off. When these are pulled out/off a clip fits over the wire with a red flag, these have to be removed to allow the switch to be pushed in and turned on.
I too have spent a lot of years in the hobby and never had a slide switch fail. I have replaced them when I felt it was getting questionable.
Dennis
Last edited by Propworn; 02-16-2014 at 10:35 AM.