vasek

My Feedback: (4)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=28456

Hi, I'm trying to connect this thing in to a test plane and have 2 problems :

a) The ailerons are setup as normal on AIL and AUX channel. Prior to connecting the gyro they work as they are supposed to but once the gyro is connected, the ailerons work together ( both UP or both DOWN ) not good...
Reversing the TX aux CH does nothing and reversing the aux switch on the gyro does nothing either. I connected everything per instructions on the net:

Wire the Rx to the Stabilizer as follows:
1) Use Male to Male cables purchased separately.
2) Orient the Brown or Black lead of the cable to the outside edge of the board (shown as – on picture above) and the yellow or white lead towards the inside (shown as S on picture above).
3) Connect the Yellow AIL Input of the Stabilizer to the Aileron output of Rx
4) Connect the Yellow ELE Input of the Stabilizer to the Elevator output of the Rx
5) Connect the Yellow RUD Input of the Stabilizer to the Rudder output of the Rx
Wire the Servos to the Stabilizer as follows:
1) If you have 1 Aileron servo or 2 Aileron servos on a Y connector, connect to the Gray Ail[L] output of the Stabilizer. If you have 2 Aileron servos that are reversed from each other (connected on 2 separate channels in your TX, Mixed and reversed from each other), connect one to the Ail[L] and the other to the Ail[R]. Note that you MUST double check the Transmitter reversing before flight! Transmitter reversing is tested without moving airplane and ONLY moving sticks.

b) When the GAIN pots are at max, the system is too sensitive but works and backing out the pot just a little bit and everything starts to act funny

I've read about the problem no. 1) but thought I could solve it, guess not

I've not heard anything about problem no. 2)

Anyone has this thing dialed in correctly ?

Thanks V.

P.S. I tried to do a search on RCU but the search is useless, so if there is a thread dealing with this, please post the link

JohnB96041

Vasek: Yep. I ordered the HK 3 axis gyro and ran into a similiar problem. I then ordered the Eagle Tree Guardian 3 axis gyro and everything worked as advertised. I am sure it is just a setup issue, but the Eagle Tree works great. I have it in a Funtana 125 with a DLE 20 cc gas engine and love the way it works. I must say that 95% of my flying is with it turned off, but when I flip the switch for 2D flying it brings the model back to level flight in an instant. In the 3D mode it makes tork rolls simple and hovering is soooo easy. Sometimes it pays to go for the well known product not the cheaper.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks John, I guess the HB gyro goes to a bin, permanently. I was hoping for a cheap gyro for foamies, but cheap seldom works, it was worth a try.

Cheers, V.

nellsey

I have set up a few of these.
There is no reason or need to use separate channels for ailerons using this device. Just use a single channel via a y lead. It works well this way.
You can use 2 channels but it would mean having to turn around one of your aileron servos in the wing.

Reversing the aux switch on the gyro should only be done when you are switching on and off from the Tx.

Please define acting "funny" ? I assume you mean jumpy? If that is the correct you have far too much gain.
The gain is set, from max setting, back to around 5 or 10 past the hour. Less is better to start with.

It is always better to have the stabilizer on a switch. Being able to switch it on at height to check any set up issues being the obvious advantage.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

ok nellsey I can plug the ail. into a Y, but what bathers me more is the adjustment problem. When the pots are full right position it works but with the smallest change in axis it goes to full throws and stays there. So i back-up the dial just a 1/8 of the turn and the surface just deflects in a jittery manner and returns to neutral immediately even if the axis is still off line. Is that normal ? I can make a vid for you if you want. Thanks V.

nellsey

From what you describe that is normal when having the gain too high. When it is set high even the slightest movement will be magnified enormously.
What you must do is make sure the surface the gyro is working, is moving the correct way, ie - if you roll the plane left the right aileron goes up to compensate. Same with elev and rudd.
Once that is done put the gyro settings to 5 or 10 past the hour.
With the gyro on, hold the plane steady and roll one way quite sharply. There should not be a great deal of movement but it's first movement should be the opposite correction. if you are finding it difficult to tell then temporarily turn the gains up just to check each surface.
The surface which is being corrected will not continue it's correction whilst you are holding it, returning to neutral as you describe.

There are some vids here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64zs0JO4n4U

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

That vid was VERY helpful ! I guess I can set it up and try it now, it seems the pots are over sensitive. I won't fly it in anything I'm not willing to crash in any case.
I don't understand why they reversed the second servo for the two ail. setup. It doesn't make semce, the servo is ALWAYS reversed by it's placement. I think HK should re-flash the firmware... yeah right! It's HK...

Thanks for the help ! V.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

How have you got that Guardian to work on a gas engine? On both of mine the vibration from the engine running drives them off scale.

JohnB96041

Again, I will say, it works like I want it to work. I have a DLE 20 cc gas engine in the Funtana 125. The Guardian is mounted on double sided tape and is not mounted on a foam pad. Mounting is directly on the CG and centered inside the model. A well balanced prop and spinner is required to keep viberation to a minimum.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

I find it hard to believe that you have it working on a gas powered airplane.
Mounting it on the CG,centered will not help. The vibration is transmitted thru the structure and double faced tape is not sufficient to isolate it.
You say you have it to work for your satisfaction. I suspect that is only when the engine is throttled down or you have the gain set so low its not doing anything for you.

AMA 74894

My Feedback: (1)

remember, this is a gyro, not an autopilot...
it can only detect (and correct for) uncommanded MOVEMENT... so holding the airplane with an axis 'off line' will not cause the gyro to keep the surface deflected.

hope that helps!

JohnB96041

Your comments are way off base. I am here to tell you that it works perfectly the way I want. I have more than 50 flights on the Funtana 125 since installing the Eagle Tree Guardian with great success. Yes, gas engines do have vibration, but the system works. No, I do not use the guardian only when throttled down. I have used in in the 2D mode for take offs and landings. Really like it on take offs. but rarely use it on landings. Gain is set just below where the wobbling of the airplane starts. So, I am guessing the gain is around 50%? If I turn the gain up by one mark the model will start wobbling. I also fly at around half throttle most of the time. The Funtana 125 is not a high speed aircraft. I do use full throttle on vertical climbs, loops, etc and have done so many times with the guardian in 2D mode. The 3D mode makes it much easier to do the tork rolls, high alfa flight, etc.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

If you do loops with the guardian in 2D mode your guardian is simply not working. I think you have a bad unit and are kidding yourself.

JohnB96041

What makes you so sure 2D will not let me make a loop? Up elevator over rides the pitch part of the gyro. It works. Try it rather than being so negative. Then End.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

If you go into the Guardian setup you will find both pitch and roll are limited to 60 degrees. This means if you try to exceed that value the Guardian will take over and override your input to limit the model to that value.
I have not tried pitch but I have tried roll. When in 2D to turn you just hold the aileron control hard over and the model will go to 60 degrees bank and stop. In fact you have to do this to make it turn.
Now you can change this but if you set it to 90 degrees you have defeated the whole purpose of the 2D mode.
If you were, to get it to go thru to upside down, it would instantly right itself.
I have put it in 3D mode and got it inverted then switched it to 2D mode and watched it right itself.
Since you dont seem to know any of this I dont think you have even flown one, So I am just going to drop this now.

Flypaper 2

I got theHK V2 to work by flipping one of the ail. servos over so both are facing the same way. Had to move the horn over a bit to accomodate it but no problem. Works great on a Flash 3D mounted on the bottom of the fuse. The gain is sensitive but once you find the magic spot it works great.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

It's good you got it dialed in Fly, so there's hope
but I'm not going to flip all my ailerons servos for this... call me lazy :O

Flypaper 2

Another point, It will fly fine with the gyro on only one ail. I tried that on a big profile Geebee and you couldn't tell the difference. I have two of the V2 in use and two of the V3

JohnB96041

Thanks for dropping this issue. Each to his own. Mine works and I do fly quit often (2-3 times per week). Good bye and happy landings.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Good, another option then.
How is the V3 ? any problems with the integrated Rx, brownouts/ loss of signal ?

Flypaper 2

No problems with either one for about a year now. One is on a Pogo VTO. Sure makes vertical takeoffs and landing a lot easier.

dghjtyjian

I got theHK V2 to work by flipping one of the ail.