the crow

My Feedback: (1)

I have a H9 Edge 540 with a BME 44. When the engine is running and the antenna collapsed, I get about 8 ft. before it starts glitching really bad. With the engine off, I can get over 100 ft with the antenna collapsed.

Where do I start troubleshooting. Any suggestion is appreciated.

BTW, this is my first gas plane/engine. I don't this it's the radio because I have no problem with my glow planes.

vinnie

My Feedback: (1)

Crow,
Begin by going over every electrical connection to ensure they're clean and snug. Eliminate any metal-to-metal linkage connections if you have any. Is the receiver adequately protected with foam? Antenna routing different from usual?

Good Luck.

amcross

My Feedback: (2)

From the Futaba FAQ:

I am building a large scale aircraft and it will require 18"+ extensions. Do I need voltage suppressiors, noise suppressors, chokes or other items?
In general there is no need for noise suppressors in current generation Futaba equipment. Older equipment and some other brand's current equipment do require this; however, Futaba does not.

Twisting your servo extensions lightly and gently is a good idea, as it helps minimize the combination of the electrical fields from the 3 leads.

Heavier gauge extensions are an excellent idea and are highly recommended, as much for the distance as for the high draw of high torque high speed, ball bearing servos.

If you see radio interference in your gasoline aircraft's operation, look first to the gasoline engine's installation. All ignition equipment, including an electronic kill switch, must be mounted at least 12", and preferably 14", away from all radio equipment, including throttle servos, etc. Ignition kill switch should always be on opposite side of fuse from radio kill switch. All pushrods going to anything related to the engine must be non-conductive (just nonmetal clevises is not sufficient).

Epoxy Cup

I am haveing the same problem with a Hanger 9 Pizzaz. I have a Saito .65 on it and have flown this combo for a while with no problem. Then the glitching started. Aileron, rudder, throttle, the whole works. Only when the engine is running. Today I changed recievers (and crystal) ...same thing???? Could this be one bad servo causing all this? The other thing I was thinking about, this plane has aluminimum engine mount clamps (sort of). Many of the guys have had problems with vibration cracks and gone to wood U for mount. I thought I would be smart and rubber mount with O-rings. If the fuel has eaten these up and there is vib between engine case and aluminimum mount would this cause glitching? Any ideas are appreciated:stupid:

Bob Payne

My Feedback: (8)

I was adjusting my throttle servo last night on a trainer
and when the radio and plane are on if i touch the
engine anywhere with a pair of pliers or screwdriver
the servo's chatter????
anyone ever heard of someting like this before??
thanks

i can even run the screwdriver across the muffler and it'll do it.

Lynx

Sounds like you're grounding the engine is causing electrical discharges somehow. Are you touching metal on the screwdriver when it happens?

lynngordon

You might want to look at this thread in the Giant Engine section:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...ighlight=bosch

Lynnn

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

I had the same problem on my PT-19 with the US 41 cc engine. Had the rec and battery and switch under the rear cockpit. Had the kill switch for the engine in the same cockpit. The radio would go into failsafe when the engine was running. I moved the kill switch to the farthest forward point on the plane and have never had the problem again.

See how close your receiver and switch are to the electronic fields from the engine. I was told to get them as far away as possible. This worked for mine.

Hope that helps.

Epoxy Cup

I got it fixed. I took the engine out remounted it on a couple of poly strips I cut out of some scrap material. This keeps it off the aluminum mounts. Didn't work. Since this was an ARF (Pizzaz) it came with a wire for throttle control. Someone mentioned that if the carb arm was metal this could be a problem. I dismissed this cause it was flying good before (glitch free). Well I decided to try it and replaced with cable and nylon clevis. Problem gone, flew it yesterday.