please help me, I need to find right battery size for my airplane!!!
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please help me, I need to find right battery size for my airplane!!!
I have JR equipment, and I am setting up my hanger 9 ultra stick 40. I want just about as much battery charge as all the other "average" planes.
1. I have 2 standard servos on a y-harness on flaps
2. I have 2 standard servos on ailerons
3. I have 3 standard servos on rudd, elev, and thro.
I have a total of 7 servos, and I need a NiCad battery pack because my accucyle plus doesn't cycle NiMh cells.
what capacity should I get for the reciever pack??
Also, can I move up to a 6v pack for more speed and torque. Can I do this safely?
Thanks for all your help.
1. I have 2 standard servos on a y-harness on flaps
2. I have 2 standard servos on ailerons
3. I have 3 standard servos on rudd, elev, and thro.
I have a total of 7 servos, and I need a NiCad battery pack because my accucyle plus doesn't cycle NiMh cells.
what capacity should I get for the reciever pack??
Also, can I move up to a 6v pack for more speed and torque. Can I do this safely?
Thanks for all your help.
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please help me, I need to find right battery size for my airplane!!!
1100 mah should be fine. You won't have any problems with a 6 volt battery. fyi....I cycle my NiMH on an Accu-cycle all of the time. It is not recommended because the Accu-cycle doesn't have a peak detector for NiMH, but it is not needed when charging at c/10 or slower. You can treat a NiMH just like a NiCD when charging at c/10.
Bryan
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please help me, I need to find right battery size for my airplane!!!
My US 40 (had) 2 HS-615 MGs on rudder & elevator, an HS-425 on throttle and 4 MPX Profi BBs (non-digital) on ailerons & flaps. I used a 4-cell 1100 mAh pack with no problems.
I say *had* because I injured it a couple of weeks ago while making a low, slow downwind inverted pass. Relaxed the "elevator" thumb for a second, and bounced it. Had enough airspeed to get it rolled upright, but not enough to smooth out the landing. Cracked the tail, poked some holes in the wing sheeting and broke out the landing gear plate.
Its about 75% repaired. Once I finish fixing it I plan on giving it away as I have a 1.20 sized Stick waiting to be assembled.
I say *had* because I injured it a couple of weeks ago while making a low, slow downwind inverted pass. Relaxed the "elevator" thumb for a second, and bounced it. Had enough airspeed to get it rolled upright, but not enough to smooth out the landing. Cracked the tail, poked some holes in the wing sheeting and broke out the landing gear plate.
Its about 75% repaired. Once I finish fixing it I plan on giving it away as I have a 1.20 sized Stick waiting to be assembled.
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more INFO
smartman300 wrote on 10-22-2002 5:03 PM:
wha sevos are thse? Hitec?
Also, do I NEED lo-profile servos on the ailerons and flaps?
I was thinking of just running standad servos throughout.
Do you think this would be okay??
Thanks for any help
wha sevos are thse? Hitec?
Also, do I NEED lo-profile servos on the ailerons and flaps?
I was thinking of just running standad servos throughout.
Do you think this would be okay??
Thanks for any help
The 615s and 425 are Hitec servos, the Profi BBS are Multiplex.
The 615s are 107 oz-in metal-geared servos. Overkill, big time. I used these because I had them on hand and needed a little extra weight behind the CG.
The 425 is my standard BB throttle servo. Plastic gears, etc.
The Profi BBs are 5-pole metal-geared servos. I used these for a couple of reasons.
- They center *really* well for a non-digital servo. This is important, as its infuriating to have 4 wing surfaces that don't consistently line up. Ask me how I know this.
- They are just a hair smaller than standard servos, and fit the wing cutouts with no Dremel work at all.
- They were on sale for $22 bucks each at MPX USA!