Setting the FT NTC3 Front Blade Roll Bar
08-26-2004, 11:16 AM
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Setting the FT NTC3 Front Blade Roll Bar
I set the bar as per the instructions. Both bars are to the center of the chassis at 45 degrees. Both bars are touching and the front is very stiff like I have not suspension. When the bars are pushed back to the mounts suspension is fine.
Which way is the correct way of setting this front blade roll bar.
Thanks
Which way is the correct way of setting this front blade roll bar.
Thanks
08-26-2004, 01:13 PM
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RE: Setting the FT NTC3 Front Blade Roll Bar
Mine are pushed back into the mounts to their limit, and this places the ball/cup in the correct position. When the blade is in and the shocks are removed, the front end should move freely, without binding.
08-26-2004, 01:25 PM
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RE: Setting the FT NTC3 Front Blade Roll Bar
If the blades are setback into the mounts, I have smooth movement. So, then went is this front blade working on the anti roll? There is not alot of ride height / movement. I thought the Anti roll bars connect both side of the arms to limit roll. By setting them back into the mount is this really working then?
Example: The bar anti roll bar is continues from left to right. The left side goes up and will have constant force to the right side. If the fronts don't touch how does if work?
Example: The bar anti roll bar is continues from left to right. The left side goes up and will have constant force to the right side. If the fronts don't touch how does if work?
08-26-2004, 09:49 PM
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RE: Setting the FT NTC3 Front Blade Roll Bar
The ball is in the cup when mine are pushed back in the blocks. The ball produces a side force on the cup, or vice versa, to lift the opposite side. If you take the shocks off, the movement should be very smooth and even. With the shocks on, and depending upon the blade angle, the opposite side will move a little, or a lot.
08-26-2004, 11:02 PM
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RE: Setting the FT NTC3 Front Blade Roll Bar
Thanks!
BTW, what are your settings on the car Camber, Toe In/Out for front & back and what body are you using? I have my car set up as per direction for foam ties. Car ran great yesterday (only at 1/4-1/2 speed, still break-in the engine tanks 6,7,8) without a body. Today I ran the car with an old style Chevy body I had from 10 years ago for 1/10 scale never used (cut the body last night And had to raise the body today because it was hitting the ground). I was leaning out the motor more now (tank #9,10,11). I know I was going a little faster but the car was harder to control. The front seems to be very quick and I was all over the place. The tail was loose and at times on the straight 1/2 to 2/3 way and I spun out. Was I getting air-bone with this body? I was thinking of getting the Protoform Alfa Romeo 2.1 200mm body or the HPI Dodge Stratus Body 200mm?
Thanks again.
BTW, what are your settings on the car Camber, Toe In/Out for front & back and what body are you using? I have my car set up as per direction for foam ties. Car ran great yesterday (only at 1/4-1/2 speed, still break-in the engine tanks 6,7,8) without a body. Today I ran the car with an old style Chevy body I had from 10 years ago for 1/10 scale never used (cut the body last night And had to raise the body today because it was hitting the ground). I was leaning out the motor more now (tank #9,10,11). I know I was going a little faster but the car was harder to control. The front seems to be very quick and I was all over the place. The tail was loose and at times on the straight 1/2 to 2/3 way and I spun out. Was I getting air-bone with this body? I was thinking of getting the Protoform Alfa Romeo 2.1 200mm body or the HPI Dodge Stratus Body 200mm?
Thanks again.
08-27-2004, 06:49 AM
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RE: Setting the FT NTC3 Front Blade Roll Bar
ORIGINAL: B.T.D.T.
Thanks!
BTW, what are your settings on the car Camber, Toe In/Out for front & back and what body are you using? I have my car set up as per direction for foam ties. Car ran great yesterday (only at 1/4-1/2 speed, still break-in the engine tanks 6,7,8) without a body. Today I ran the car with an old style Chevy body I had from 10 years ago for 1/10 scale never used (cut the body last night And had to raise the body today because it was hitting the ground). I was leaning out the motor more now (tank #9,10,11). I know I was going a little faster but the car was harder to control. The front seems to be very quick and I was all over the place. The tail was loose and at times on the straight 1/2 to 2/3 way and I spun out. Was I getting air-bone with this body? I was thinking of getting the Protoform Alfa Romeo 2.1 200mm body or the HPI Dodge Stratus Body 200mm?
Thanks again.
Thanks!
BTW, what are your settings on the car Camber, Toe In/Out for front & back and what body are you using? I have my car set up as per direction for foam ties. Car ran great yesterday (only at 1/4-1/2 speed, still break-in the engine tanks 6,7,8) without a body. Today I ran the car with an old style Chevy body I had from 10 years ago for 1/10 scale never used (cut the body last night And had to raise the body today because it was hitting the ground). I was leaning out the motor more now (tank #9,10,11). I know I was going a little faster but the car was harder to control. The front seems to be very quick and I was all over the place. The tail was loose and at times on the straight 1/2 to 2/3 way and I spun out. Was I getting air-bone with this body? I was thinking of getting the Protoform Alfa Romeo 2.1 200mm body or the HPI Dodge Stratus Body 200mm?
Thanks again.
Sounds like you need alot more down force on the rear or a softer shore foam on the rear tires.
I had the same problem with my serpent. But then again I was running with no wing on the body at all, since it wasn't cut out yet at the time.
I ran it after installing the wing and the handling change was dramatic.
So bodies choice definetley plays a roll in sticking to the track.
Tweedy
08-27-2004, 11:38 PM
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RE: Setting the FT NTC3 Front Blade Roll Bar
Don't know what "chevy" body you're running. If it does not have a wing, then the stock set-up would be way off.
Get yourself a 200mm touring body. I've run the Stratus, MG and Alfa touring bodies with good results. The stock set-up is a good place to start. Tire compounds will make the biggest difference in handling. Soft tires stick well, but wear fast. Without actually driving on the surface, I can only guess at settings.
My advice would be to get 40 shore all around to start. Then make small changes in the suspension, one at a time, and see if it gets better or worse. Keep records. If you can get it to handle well on 40's, then you'll be in good shape to just change tire compounds for different track conditions.
Get yourself a 200mm touring body. I've run the Stratus, MG and Alfa touring bodies with good results. The stock set-up is a good place to start. Tire compounds will make the biggest difference in handling. Soft tires stick well, but wear fast. Without actually driving on the surface, I can only guess at settings.
My advice would be to get 40 shore all around to start. Then make small changes in the suspension, one at a time, and see if it gets better or worse. Keep records. If you can get it to handle well on 40's, then you'll be in good shape to just change tire compounds for different track conditions.
08-29-2004, 01:25 PM
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RE: Setting the FT NTC3 Front Blade Roll Bar
I am planning to order the Stratus body today. I am use 37 shore all around, suggested by LHS. Without the body it handles great. I know its the body that got me all over the place. It doesn't have a wing. So now I got to wait till the body is all trimed and painted before I will run the car again.
Thanks
Thanks
