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Official Smartech Thread

Old 02-20-2005, 09:25 AM
  #301  
studysession
 
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

From what I can tell - No one deleted it. If there was a 10th page it should still be here and it is not. I will look further into it.

As for the car posted a few messages back:


I have seen these at a few model shops here in the UK. No one seems to like them much, but they must sell enough to keep them in stock. So who knows...
Old 02-20-2005, 09:35 AM
  #302  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

I have the smartech winner pro and I like it just fine, I have had no problems with it as of yet.
Old 02-21-2005, 06:46 PM
  #303  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

can any1 suggest a good battery/charger combination for the t-maxx? also what can be done about the transmitter batterys?
Old 02-21-2005, 08:35 PM
  #304  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

Well for the transmitter batteries I have been using 8 2100mah nimh cells for the past year and a half with no trouble. They hold a charge for a LONG time and I typically get a month use on one charge. I haven't seen any shortening of the range either. I like to use 6v nimh RX packs rather than 4 AA cells. Same voltage but you'll get longer run time out of a pack and you don't have to worry about any cells popping loose when you hit a bump. I have seen some good deals on a pack\charger combo on ebay a few times. I am going to get an actuall nimh peak charger this year however just to make sure my packs are runnign their best.

Enjoymentboy
Old 02-22-2005, 07:41 AM
  #305  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

on the transmitter there is an input for a direct power input (im not technical so i dont know the exact term to use). look on the bottem of it at the side. is this for charging or what??
Old 02-22-2005, 09:55 AM
  #306  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

Has anybody installed the dogbones [link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_426_551&products_id=7895]link[/link] from rcmart? Do these replace the drive shafts or are they the ones that go directly to the wheels? Thanks in advance.
Old 02-22-2005, 11:06 AM
  #307  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

That port should be for a charging jack. "Usually" there is a diode in place to prevent charging in reverse polarity but it's not a given. I have found as well that 8 cells get a better charge than an 8 cell pack (which is how they would charge all at once). I get a better charge on each cell as I have a 10 port charger that will charge 10 individual cells in any combination. Basically it's like 10 small chargers in one. Each cell gets to peak so they don't all charge to the capacity of the lowest one. I use packs in my plane radios and I find the individual cells to be a better coice for my use. All in all though you uwill get longer use per charge with nimh AA's then you will with alkalines. I also make my own RX packs for my cars, boats, and planes so I can make them fit just exactly as I want them too.

I do have one radio that I can not peak charge the pack if I charge through the port on the radio. I must remove the pack to do this.

Enjoymentboy
Old 02-22-2005, 01:53 PM
  #308  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

OK -
people asked what happened to the missing pages. Nothing was deleted. What was changed is how many posts list per page. It was changed from 30 to 35 making more posts listing per page by default so it will apear there are less pages for that reason.

Hope that clears things up. Thanks
Old 02-22-2005, 06:35 PM
  #309  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

oh ok thanks for the help
Old 02-22-2005, 06:47 PM
  #310  
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Well today I started having a problem with my smartech winner pro(saw that coming). I took it out today and it started running fine for about 15 minutes. Then after a refuel I started running it again and when I get into second gear it doesnt want to go fast at all, it boggs down and actually dies if I keep it at full throttle for to long. This was strange I thought, first I thought maybe air bubbles, there was some in the line but I got them out, and it ran fine at low speed. So then I did full throttle and it still starts slowing down. I then tried turning the needle 1 whole turn from the curent setting, first out then in. This seemed to help but then the problem still acured after further testing. I think air leak is ruled out but i dont know. I dont have a high speed needle I have a main needle, idle screw and and trimming needle. so my ideas are possible air leak, needle settings, or maybe glow plug which ill check in a minute. So hey guys do you have any idea what it could be? any help apreciated, also if you know what it is how can I fix it.
Old 02-22-2005, 07:21 PM
  #311  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

If it is only having this problem when running at WOT I would suspect it is too lean on the main needle. Going 1 turn either way isn't going to help if you don't give the engine time to adjust to the changes. What I would suggest it to put it back to where it was last running well and start it up and let it get fully warmed up. If the problem is there enrich it by no more than 1/8th turn at a time and give it at least 30 seconds of good running (but not WOT) to adjust to the changes. Give it a few bursts of full and see how it reacts. If you get to a full turn and it has not improved (or even gotten worse) then put it back to your starting point and do the same thing but going lean. It's always better to run too rich than too lean.

If you have a 2 needle carb you should also enrich the low speed needle about 1/8th to 1/4 turn before you start the main needle tests. This way you will be quite sure that your low end isn't leaning out and causing your engine to starve when you jump from low\mid to WOT.

Try a new plug also. Break-in and too lean conditions can kill a plug quickly. If it doesn't make a difference then you at least can rule that out.

I have found that the stock carbs leave A LOT to be desired. If you have access to one try an OS 10E (if you use a rotory). They help out quite a bit.

Enjoymentboy
Old 02-22-2005, 07:47 PM
  #312  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

just checked the glow plug and it glows nice and red so its not the problem, I will try needle adjustments tomorow thanks for the info enjoymentboy.
Old 02-22-2005, 09:17 PM
  #313  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

Keep in mind that just because a plug glows nice does not mean that it is still good. There is a catalytic reaction between the methanol in the fuel and the coil that is PART of how the ignigion takes place. If a coating gets on the coil it will mess with this reaction and the plug is essentially junk even though it will still glow with the plug warmer on. Cheaper plugs use a plated coil wire and that plating can and does wear off. That's one of the reason that good plugs cost more. Solid catalyst wires, usually platinum or a platinum\rhodium alloy aren't cheap to make.

Try a brand new plug and see how it reacts. I can't count the number of times I've heard of strange engine problems that were only due to a bad plug.

Enjoymentboy
Old 02-23-2005, 08:05 PM
  #314  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

OK today I went out and tryed different settings with the needles. I made it pretty rich and that seems to cure the problem. I cango WOT with out it slowing down now. So the glow plug is still good...for now. Thanks for the info it really helped.

On a sader note, while I was testing the needle settings I drove over some gravel and slid into a car. I drove it back to me and I noticed it wasnt getting very much traction. On closer inspection I found this...[:@]

I am not sure what the part is called that I broke but I am epoxying it right now, I dont think it will hold but i'll try and see. I looked in my manual, I think it is a shock tower but it looks different in the manual than on the car. Actually I think it is called a stow plate acording to the manual, but it still looks a bit different, oh well. Anyways the glue is dry now so tomorow I will see if it holds up ok.
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Old 02-23-2005, 11:05 PM
  #315  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

well here is a picture of the fix, the white stuff is a little bit of paper towel that stuck to it.
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Old 02-24-2005, 08:12 AM
  #316  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

Sorry to hear about the crash. It happens to the best of us and is just part of the hobby. Typically that part would be called a shock tower or shock stay but depending on what part of the world the car was made it they could have called it ANYTHING. That part does take A LOT of stress so I don't think that epoxy will hold up past the first noticable bump. Basically if it makes the shock move it will "probably" rip it apart again. You're only real recourse here is to replace it. If you want to make it really touch you can find an aluminium part that will NOT break again...but it might bend.

Here's what I'd do. Don't worry about what it "might" be called int he manual. Take it off the car and go down to your LHS. Ask them to compare it to other manufacturers parts. Chances are that one from HPI or Tamiya will fit. If so you will have a better quality part and not have to wait for the mail. Worst case is they can't match it so you and all it cost you was a trip to the store.

Enjoymentboy
Old 02-24-2005, 05:08 PM
  #317  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

yep just as you fortold, broke it again with just a little bump into a curb. Hobby shop was not helpful at all, infact the only parts they carry are for the hpi savage. So They aren't getting my bussiness again. If I have to wait a week to get my part so be it. Arg that guy angers me[:@]
Old 02-24-2005, 07:42 PM
  #318  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

hey guys, I burnt my clutch up and I need a new one (the whole thing) does anybody know where I can get one for my Commando?
Old 02-24-2005, 07:45 PM
  #319  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

HAHA SUCCESS
Shock Tower? I don't need no stinkin shock tower. Yeah thats right I got too impatient to wait for one to get delivered to me so I went all out Macguyver style on it. Thanks for the aluminum idea it really helped lol. OK so I didn't have any plastic or aluminum laying around so I had to "borrow" some from something in my garrage. ok ok so I freakin hacked a piece of metal off this putty spreader I found laying out there. oh yeah, and I didn't even have tin snips to cut it either, yep you guessed it I used some lawn shears to cut it OH YEAH. lol as you can tell I'm pretty proud of my frankinstein rigged shock tower, but hey it works AND its stronger than stock. man those gutters must have little magnets in them bcuz it seems to pull my car toward them lol. But yeah another few crashes and no "shock tower" damage. Here are some pics[8D][8D]
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:48 PM
  #320  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

Is this what ur looking for?
http://www.excelhobby.com/excel_hobby_020.htm
Old 02-26-2005, 06:42 AM
  #321  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

Hey Jman44,

I like the repair job, it's just what I would have done, although there are a few engineering firms locally so aluminium is pretty well available. Personally I think repairs like yours are the true hobbyists solution. Customization, personalization, it's all good. I mean who wants to have the same car as everybody else huh?
Sounds like your having fun, I'm not jealous..........honest!!
I'm still waiting on the parts, (unable to fabricate the parts I need) apparently the manufacturer is out of stock until the 24th so hopefully they will be dispatched soon.
All run in now though, just need some tuning when I take them out. I opened one of them up a little during run-in and it can really shift!!
Any idea what the range would be for the transmitter? They get pretty far away pretty quickly lol.

Anyway, got to go get my dog ready, he's in a dog show next month and a breeder wants to see him. Keep having fun.

Kes29




Old 02-26-2005, 09:11 AM
  #322  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

Simply put...SWEET! This is the stuff we like to see. Can't find it? Make it.

Good job on that. Just goes to show what you can do when you put your mind to it and when you want something but don't want the wait.

Keep up the good work. And pretty soon you won't have many stock parts left to break.

Enjoymentboy
Old 02-26-2005, 10:08 AM
  #323  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

Thanks guys I wasn't about to wait a week or more for a part that I could probally make. Now if I had a bad clutch like you I'd be outa luck unless I could locate a good machinest or I really wood have to wait it out.

As for the range, I think maybe 100-200 feet maybe less I dont know but mine seemed like it went out of range quickly lol. And having low batteries GREATLY affects radio distance. having a good failsafe is really really good. If you have low batteries and go out of range you just saved your self some exstenive repairs on your rc.
Old 02-26-2005, 11:28 AM
  #324  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

A great test for finding your range ( and I do this with my planes all the time ) takes 2 people but is foolproof. Fully charge your RX pack (you ARE using a pck right?) and either replace your TX batteries with fresh (if using alkalines) or recharge if using rechargables. You want to have as full a signal as possible. Take your car (with the RX and TX turned on) and walk away from your friend and have your friend hold the TX and keep moving the throttle AND steering. This puts a good load on the RX pack. As soon as you see any sort of odd servo activity (ie twitching, jumpiness, stop responding etc) you know you have found the max distance you can go. Now you need to measure the distance. I simply walk back to my friend and count my paces. Don't take long strides...just walk normally and keep a good count. When you get back have your friend measure your stide and multiply that by the number of strides IE IF your stride is 2 feet and you walked 123 strides then 123 X 2 = 146ft. Take 10% off this distance for some safety and you now know your range.

Enjoymentboy
Old 02-26-2005, 02:42 PM
  #325  
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Default RE: Official Smartech Thread

Thanks for the info guys, I bought a whole load of 2500 mAh aa (NiMh) batteries off the internet and use them in both the Rx and the Tx, they were much more cost effective than the packs I looked at and have a higher rating. I had planned to solder contacts on them in order to create my own packs but I'm financially restricted at present and cannot afford the charger. I was looking at the ripmax chargers, cheapest around $60USD.
I'll get one soon and then I'll make my packs.

The mechanical failsafe I devised seems to be OK, it doesn't interfere with functionality and is very cheap. I may get the electronic ones too, can't be too careful huh?

I guess the range is dictated by the quality of the equipment, I'll experiment like you advise.

Later guys.

Kes29

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