pipeline

I'm looking for a new car and have narrowed my choices between the V1RRR or MTX4. Which one should I get? Which one is the better car? Does anyone have any opinions on the 2 cars? Please help.

forestroke

i have the RRR and love it. you'll get everyone talking about what is better. at this level, the biggest difference in lap times will be in the driving. so either one is a good choice.

then, the second question is what kind of support can you get? parts availability and setup advice.

lastly, which costs more to run. i have a serpent 950R and an Evolva and the parts for the Evolva are half the price so guess what, the serpent is on the sidelines watching me run.

all things considered, i'd still pick the RRR.

SqueedilySpooch

i'd pick a mugen for there great support and they make very good cars. Price is an issue but if you have it defintatly...go for it. The kyosho is a good car but tech support and parts availability isnt as good...here anyways.

Jea3

You really can't go wrong with either car. The MTX4 is brand new, so it gets the wow factor in it right now. I race the MTX4 now, and was running the MTX3 ProSpec. You can't go wrong with it. I race against allot of RRR's at my local tracks. They usually have a harder time finding parts for the RRR, and I usually found MTX3 parts just about anywhere I raced. The 4 is new, so at the moment, its hard to find parts, but if Mugen's past is any indication on what's coming, we will see plenty of parts at the hobby shops.

My vote is for the Mugen.

Kanea6

i also race with the Mugen MTX-4. its an awsome car. at my local track if the v-one RRR drivers break a part the are out for the rest of the day, where with my car if i break a part i can just go to the guy at my track that sells the parts for it and i can keep on racing. i use to runn a HPI R40 and i can really tell the difference between my lap times with my R40 is was doing about 28sec now with my mugen iam down around 22-23 sec. so if i was you i would pick the mugen

kyosho_vonerr

go with the kyosho rrr. ive got a double r and its great i go around just as quick as the mugens. and parts are easy to find and super duper cheap. your answer to getting arts is www.rc-mushroom.com they stock around 25 pages of spares for the kyosho r/rr/rrr. plus so many people get problems with mugens but i havent had one with my kyosho

forestroke

yeah! another vote for the kyosho :-) thought i was all alone there!

stanmart

Im thinking about getting an MTX-4. Might sell my R40 and purchase it. Its kind of expensive though. Looks awesome. Guy at the track had one.

Saboteur10573

I personally won't change cars unless I've been driving the other one into the ground and still don't feel to fast with it. I beaten a few other rides with my slightly upgraded R40 and don't plan on buying anything else. For you both cars are great, but it's all a matter of preference. This is something you will be driving and not anyone elses as you dont drive the way they do. No two drivers drive the same. Pick whichever one YOU like more and one your LHS has and can get parts with without a hassle.

stanmart

Problem with my R40 is not the handling of the car. Its actually a decent handling ride. Its the shock towers and ball joints popping off during the races. Also the servo position is a nightmare.

Im actually probably going to go with a TC3. Its cheap and tough at the track. It seems to handle fairly decent as well. Guys are turning very quick lap times with this car. Some a good bit faster then my R40. I can get the factory kit for 254. The main attraction to this car for me is the layout of the electronics. Very simple and easy to deal with. Steering servo is in the middle of the chassis away from danger. I need simple at the track. R40 has been a slight headache to deal with at the track for sure. Not that its a bad car. Its decent but I like simple.

fastest_ntc3

Stanmart, where can you get the factory TC3 for $254? Are you talking about the kit with all the upgrades?

Saboteur10573

They turn faster laps because they have had more experience than you have at the track. Unless you are on par (pretty much ON there level...not just close ) then you can say it is a bit faster. Far as I'm concern the R40 is still a more durable ride. As for the servo position it's only a concern if someone tries to take you on the inside of a right turn. What do you do? Don't let them try to take you on the inside. Steering servo is under the deck of the chassis, but from a hit can still dislodge it. As for shocks popping off, your parts may be worn. My never came off after 10races +. What ever makes ya happy go with it.

stanmart

Could be right about the parts being worn and probably about the experience too. However when the car is working properly and doesnt fall apart i always qualify first. Finally got the hang of setting the car up for the most part. Got a setup kit. I might replace all of the ball joints with new stuff. Honestly the TC3 guys motors just out power mine which has nothing to do with the car. But the TC3s dont seem to handle bad. There at least as equal in my opinion. I cant really see a difference. One guy that pits next to me runs a Novarossi motor and it just kills my RB. Especially on the low end. Much more power all the way thru. Could be a tuning thing i dont know. I still got air leak issues. . Like i said the R40 seems to handle real nice. Definatly no complaints there. The servo position is definatly a problem though. I took a whack on the side and knocked one out. I also bumped the coping on a turn and took another out. Its just there out in the open and it definatly can be damaged. The TC3s main attraction to me is the centering of the steering servo. Its just a simple design in general that i like.. The guy that pits next to me had 2 R40s and sold them and got the TC3s. He likes the associated better. He said its great out of the box. Who knows. Just seems like the guys with the TC3s have way less issues then i do. Not one person at my track runs R40s either. I dont know if thats a good thing or a bad. Ive talked to several people that had the R40 and they all say they didnt care for it compared to what they have now. Many are running Mugens though. MTX-4 looks mighty inviting. Mostly mugens and TC3s.

I might give the old R40 one more go and see if i can solve some of my issues with it. I will replace the ball joints on the front and see if that helps. Sometimes i do bump the coping and i need the car to be able to withstand a little bit of bumping. Ive seem TC3s bash the coping and keep going. At least my parts arent breaking though. Probably just worn like you said.

forestroke

did stan mart have a change of heart?

pipeline - do you have a conclusion?

Saboteur10573

Few people run R40s at my track and very few run NTC3s because they just don't stand up to a good hit. Mostly Mugens, Serpents, and Kyoshos run. If you were here I'd gladly give you tunine advice. Tell you the truth my R40 isnt much off from stock settings and it handles on rails. The many racers that tried it were surprised. Also the Rody propells the car to xtreme speeds. The drivetrain too is REALLY smooth; even smoother than a CD3 Pro which is also shaft and shaft drives usualyl known to be smoother than belt. I wouldn't trade my car for anything as I like what I run, cheap parts, and if I beat other rides it gives me and the car props. BTW if you see a guy trying to corner on the inside LET HIM PASS. If you don't your asking for a clean bump knocking you right off the way.

forestroke

shaft smoother than belt... hmmm... don't think you'll have a lot of takers on that one.

Saboteur10573

Most belts have come a long way yes, but overall compare a NTC3 to another basic belt driven shaft. Depending on what kind it is, the NTC3 drivetrain is silky smooth. My R40 however has a lot less friction than the CD3 Pro. The Kyosho FW05 (king of the shafties) is pretty smooth too. It all depends on how things are setup.

kyosho_vonerr

dont pick the tc3 over your r40. tc3's i think are rubbish compared to r40's

Jea3

why TC3 over the current world champ, or the next world champ? RRR or MTX4 are the only way to go at the moment if you really want to race.

The R40 is a good car also, and if that's what you currently have, just replace the front knuckles (that will stop the front end from coming apart) and have extra front CVD's with you. Never had an issue with my servo's (futaba 9451 Digital). But, 5 out of 10 "A" main R40's at the HPI challenge here in Orlando, broke CVD's.

This is from HPI's website, just for those that say it must have been the drivers: And yes, even Dave broke a CVD. I took my set out of my car for Dave, on Saturday, after qualifying.

So, if you are buying a new car, RRR or MTX4 is the only way to go.

Jea3

Movie of Dave at the HPI challenge.

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/ne...1/mov1939t.jpg

Saboteur10573

Hey that opened up to picture.

BTW what did you think of the stock MRX4 tires? Did they hook up for you or no?

kyosho_vonerr

get a kyosho no matter what. i run my kyosho rr and beat most 1/10ths i race with

TimJ

V One RRR = IFMAR world champion

rhed

I have the MTX4 also. And as far as parts goes, alot of the 3 parts are carried on to the 4. I compared between the parts list. Anyway if any of our LHS doesn't carry to many 4 parts yet. Try referencing the parts on the 3 if compatible.
Funny thing is, the way I found out was.. As I was building my kit my 3 year old son decided to help me, lol. To make a long story short, I lost 2 of my king pins. So I checked the part #'s and my LHS got the MTX3 king pins in stock. And it was the same.. Hope this was useful "FYI" reply...

pipeline

could not make up my mind so I bought both cars.