GYNAIKAS

Anything that goes wrong just post it here. Give it a try you might find your soluton!!! And please tell me if you had any damage to your shafts or nests or diff. gears during the use of soft foam tyres at stock 18ss cars (caused from the high engine power that doesn't get released due to the high grp of the foam tyres)

Let's start a nice and helpful official thread. Thank you all in advance.

RcPsycho

Roto Start or Pullstart ?

HeLLsGoD

First design flaw of a stock rs4 is the fuel lines so close to the gears! Alot of people have chopped their fuel lines due to this.

Solutions :1) Get longer fuel lines and re-route it.
2) Get a racing fuel tank.
3) Blutac it onto the 2speed cover
4) Turn the stock tank the other way around (you can only put fuel when the shell is off and need longer fuel lines)

HeLLsGoD

I use foam tyres too 26front/30rear. The 18ss engine is too powerful that it puts so much stress on the shafts and cups. the 18ss already comes with heavy duty cups and stuff but its still not strong enough. Youll probably end up breaking a dogbone sooner or later. Replace it with heavy duty cvd shafts when it does

Try making your gearing taller or running your engine lil richer so theres less accelleration on take off

CTDave

My Feedback: (1)

Good thread,I am deciding to build my rs4 3 18ss or sell it.I have been getting a few mods here and there but haven't started anything yet so with this I can get some ideas.

GYNAIKAS

RCpsycho:
I suggest pullstart and only. The reason is that when your motor is stuffed with unburned fuel the roto start has enough power to cause the "Hydravlic" effect that could destroy your piston at all. By using pull start while this happens you just can't pull the whrope because the engine is too stiff and you easily realise that you should remove the glow plug and pull several times so the unburned fuel comes out of your engine. Whith roto start you lose the sence of a stuffed engine and you could damage it without noticing. Roto start and starter-boxes are made only for racing events when you need to save time while pitting. I hope I helped you choosing.

CTDave:
Hi there! I'm glad you like the thread! Just visit www.hpieurope.com go to accesories and then to option parts and see for yourself that the sky is the limit! I suggest 5 basic things for the 18ss:

1)Aluminium pipe and exaust (Also air filter if you like. I find the stock filter very very effective though. It's your choice!).
2)Racing tank fuel.
3)Get the huge purple cooling-head for your engine.
4)A good set of slick or foam tyres.
5)HPI's yellow progressive springs and anti-roll bars (yellow I suggest). PS: The coulour indicates how hard or soft they are both the springs and the anti-roll bars.

I hope i helped!

traxxaskid109

You should build the kit, unless your dissinterested, in that case sel me the hop ups! lol

Edit: I completely aggre with GYNAIKAS, and his explenation was perfect. I learned the hard for my roto-start on my savage that roto-starts are no fun. It messed up alot not to mention, it's a pain always keeping it fully charged other wise I just sit and watch as it floods my engine after trying to get it to start all the time.

Presence

Here's a problem with the RS4 18ss. Not a bad thing...But I bought a speed meter for it. Where the heck do I install it? Because it's 2 speed, I can't put it on the gear. And when I tried putting it on the drive shaft, the sensor was located too far away from the magnet, and it did not pick up. They recommend 2mm distance, but I had it at about 4-5mm. So any ideas where I can install it? Much appreciated!

GYNAIKAS

Try installing in one of you outer shafts (wheel shafts). If this doesnt work either install it on the inner side of one of your wheels. just make sure you ballance the magnet weight anti-diametric of the wheel so that you dont have vibrations while spinning. [8D]

CTDave

My Feedback: (1)

Now it's getting confusing,I went to that site and also to tower and there are about 3 different yellow springs and I did not see a pipe to fit the 18ss.do you have part numbers handy.I am still debating the build.Trying to see what else I will need.I have 2 Assoc. MGT's I am running and 1 for parts so I have the radio from that one all set there.This car was an xmas present my wife thought something different would be fun.

GYNAIKAS

Your wife bought it for you!!! DUDE PLEASE TEACH ME!!!! [8D] You're the man!!! Ususally women dont understand tat it is hobby NOT a game! Well here are some links for the exaust and the proper springs:

http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=6850
http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=a209
http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=86161
http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=87207
http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=72525
http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=1617

Front tyres: http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=4303
Rear tyres: http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=4363

Rear tyres should be wider than the front due to need of grip (to prevent oversteer from the increase front grip when using foams)
Everything i mentioned is at the links below except from the yellow sway bar (use the green it is practicly the same (a bit harder)

PS: Here's something else i discovered: http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=a925
A lighter flywheel effects the acceleration of the car. I makes engine rpc increase a bit faster due to less spinning mace. But when you reduce throtle the engine's rpm will reduce faster than with the heavier stock and you should pintch your idle a little bit.

CTDave

My Feedback: (1)

My wife even bought one of my MGT's along with countless planes and radio's.I guess I really lucked out with her.She won't come out and play with me but she will buy me the toy's.Kinda of a win win deal lol

RcPsycho

Woven Graphite upper deck? or Stock plastic upper deck?

silent_echo

woven graphit upper deck with stiffen the ride a bit and make your handling more precise, but if your just bashing around the stock case protects the electronics nicely

GYNAIKAS

I have the wooven graphit upper deck. I sold it cause although it removes weight, it changes the car's balance (heavier at the right side than the left)+your electronics are not protected+it cases interferences to the servos cause graphit is conductor and every engine vibration produses electrical noise (if you need to run fine you have to check for any direct contacts between your electronics and the deck). While racing on track i see almost no difference with similar ones using the wooven upper deck. I think it is better to invest your money on bying wooven graphit shock towers. It stil remains my personal opinion. Choose whatever you like

UltraDrifter

HELLO MY FRIEND!I ALSO HAVE THE RS4 18SS STAGE D NOW,AND I HAVE NO PROBLEMS.

HeLLsGoD

I kept my plastic radio tray/upper deck because it protects your electronics very good! GYNAIKAS is mostly correct. Although you can get rid of electrical noise interferance by making sure theres nothing loose and putting washers or insulating it with electric tape.

The rs4 weight isnt perfectly balanced, the rear engine side of the chassis is alot heavier (more tire wear). Get the carbon shock towers instead, they will make your car handle and look better

savage haley 14

the rotostart will lock up if an engine floods

GYNAIKAS

Savage haley 14: I think you say that cause you own a big block engine (i guess 25 or even more). Here we talk about small block engines mostly. You're right a big engine can lock up the roto start, but a small engine can easily be damaged. But thank you for your sugestion and wellcome to the thread.

GYNAIKAS

Well my girl bought me Playstation 3...but she cant go any further...you still remain the king!!! lol PS: I hope you found the links helpful...make sure your wife sees them...you never know....lol

CTDave

My Feedback: (1)

Yes the links were right on and yes she saw them I can order them up tomorrow.I am going with the tank and pipe right now,don't want to get to much before I get it built and see if the road car is what I want.Still pretty happy with the MGT's right now.Thanx for the links.She is one of a kind.She knows this is the hobby I really like,I have been at it since I was a kid started with the cox control line planes and went on from there done it all at one time or another.Still have a bunch of planes and kits to build.Guess I just gave my age away. lol

GYNAIKAS

I suggest you to go for the pipe and air filter first. You can save money by sealing the pump of stock fuel tank. Then to pump the fuel into the engine there's a simple trick. You tap the exaust with your finger and then you pull the starter several times until the fuel reaches the carburator.

RcPsycho

THANKS GYNAIKAS ! but... should I change the stock air filter?

GYNAIKAS

As i said i find the stock air filter very effective. It prevents dust from getting into your carb very well. And it also allows carburator to suck as much air as it needs. By installing a racing filter you gain some power for your engine but you loose a bit dust protection. It is up yo you. The fact is that a racing air filter makes engine "breathe" more freely. Just buy it and clean it more often than the stock and i think you'll be just fine.

CTDave

My Feedback: (1)

Well I have the tank on order at my lhs and he has some pretty decent pipes for it too I have to stop in and pick up my new truck body and some other parts for my MGT's so I will take a look.The pipe you gave me numbers for is back ordered so we will see what he has ,I know he mentioned Trinity and a couple others.I might have to get started with the building the parts are stacking up, either that or someones going to get a sweet deal.lol