Foxy

Wait til you get a setup kit on there, makes you realise how f'ed up your setup is when you do it by eye. Like I said though, it only matters for racing. I checked over the car of a guy who does it by eye, and it looked ok. When we got the setup kit on, we found he had nearly 5 degrees toe out on the front, one rear wheel one degree more toed in than the other, droop on every corner different, camber on every corner different. His car was transformed after we had finished, drove 20 times better.

The_Shark

BY EYE!!
i can tune it perfectly so it takes every corner the same way. after doing alighnments literly hundreds of times when i was testing different angles, you just know when somthing is alighned. at first, my allighnments sucked. but now im spot on.

though i wouldnt use a alighnment rack if i raced, it would be a good idea to have one.

Foxy

If you insist...I'm racing for 10 years and I can't do it (accurately) by eye. You must have an amazing eye for angles, and a brain like a computer. Either that, or like everyone else, you just 'believe' you are spot on. Have you ever checked? Bet you $100 you're miles out, trust me. Not wanting to start an argument, but I've met many people who claim doing it by eye is ok, until they realise. It's fine for off road, but not touring cars. If you are racing, then a kit is absolutely necessary. At least tell me that you use a caliper!?

The_Shark

oh yeah well!! just kidding.

yeah probly off by a degree or two but you probly cant tell the difference unless you are doing serious racing.

which im considering starting competive racing. just a little etchy with it becuase the closest track is 20miles away. that and im a little nervous of multiple heats.
im skilled with the controller but i have only raced on "invisible" tracks. i have a coldisac (spelling) and a nice big school parking lot which i set up little marks with chalk, i then practice and avoid going over the track, i allow three to five feet wide "track". each of the tracks consist of about 3 tight turns, a few wide turns and a 300foot strieght away. when i had my rs4 i could do my little track in no time without going over it.

i know its not the real thing but i belive i am skilled enough to race on a real track. ive seen some r/c drivers out there and i just cringe at the way they drive. i use a smooth kinetic motion that has no abruped movements, i hold on to the edge of the track and then cut a turn in half by turning from out to in to out, like a real racing teqniqe. i use the accelerator and stearing smoothly without bliping or suddon cuts of the wheel. many out there go all or nothing, which is anoying. i controll my speed with the gas instead of rushing up and slamming on the breaks.

the biggest reason why i dont race is because i am curssed with horrible street directional dislexia. i can get lost going to a store one mile away. im great at driving but i just cant remember directions. i can easily go to the track and end up in georga. i need a gps.

by the way im still waiting for my car... i dont have anything to drive right now. it has been 15days. its a ofna cd3 stock. do you think they are race worthy?

Foxy

Depends on the competition, we usually run a, b, c and d finals, so everyone gets a race, cars like the OFNA can do well in the D and C, but the A and B are made up of racing cars normally. The trick with the OFNA will be to find a set up that will keep you on the track, use decent foam tyres and try to get some advice from the locals. If you get serious later or do well, then you should get a competition car.

As for upgrades in order to race, if it's a stock RTR, you'll need a 6v receiver pack and charger, better steering servo, ideally a better transmitter if it's the stock RTR one. Maybe a decent pipe if the stock one is plastic. Anything that is fixed which can be replaced with a turnbuckle should be replaced with one. Gearing to suit your track, that's about it.

The_Shark

sounds like i need money first. it comes with a plastic pipe... he removed the stock tuned aluminum one[:@]


did some research on the guy selling me the cd3 and it turns out bidpay and his "work" know nothing about him... im going to be taken by this guy. too bad for him, bidpay replaces your money in 30days, no questions asked [>:] still another 15days of waiting and then another 4days to get a new car.

whats a good used car for $160? want something fast, but has good handleing to compliment it.

Foxy

You get what you pay for man, it's as simple as that. The only cars I've seen doing well in the B that weren't true racing chassis were an HPI RS4 3 and a very old schumacher, but both were driven very well, and set up very well. For $160 you won't get anything competitive. I have had to spend well over $1500 on the NT1 to make it and myself raceworthy. It's a building and learning process. Build your skills with anything you have, then when you're ready, get a real car, but make sure you have money in reserve, I go through 4 sets of tires on a race weekend.