Brent Davis

Gents I just sold my NTC3 that was converted to a big block .21 RB motor and 1/8th scale Mugen wheel/tires. The car was a blast fast and would have never been sold but I like new challenges. The NTC3 doesn't have aftermarket steel diff gears which was the downfall of the project although I did convert a steel ring gear to the NTC3 diff using a Ofna LD3 gear. I never got to run the car with that gear because I sold it before running it. The other seemingly downfall is the center driveshaft flex. Even though I made a bigger diameter unit, they would stay true for about 20 hard runs and then start to distort.......no big deal since I was making my own out of aluminum stock but that gets old. I researched for a 1/10th scale car using the center trans and two driveshafts like the Ofna CD3 uses plus the hardened steel gearset which is a major plus. The challenge will be for me to get the Mugen wheel/tires to fit which I am sure I can get it all fitted[)]. The CD3 also has a tad better CB and Spur gears to choose from for more top end speed whereas the NTC3 doesn't.

Who in here has a CD3 and what are your thoughts of the car?

My NTC3, gone elsewhere to bust ass in the Carolina's

MiamizFinest

Brent did u sell the car RTR even with that RB 21 in it?!?!?!?

Brent Davis

NO! I sold it roller only, no servos, no reciever, no motor, no exhaust. Just roller with wheel/tires and body.

Imma go ahead and order that CD3 tomorrow and put this in it. It's a RB modded Kangaroo which is said that a guy has been 123 MPH out in California. If the CD3 don't work out like I want it to, then I'll do another NTC3.

Brent Davis

I never ran the car with the new steel gears in the rear because Rick has the RB Xenon .21 down there porting away on it too. He claims that I had a ton more power left in it and he's getting it for me. I should have the Xenon back in 2-3 weeks. I'm also excited that Rick is making some real neat engine parts like the dual turbo plug heads which will make some more power because of the extra glow which means more fuel to put in the motor. Rick just got a brand new CNC machine to make alot of neat stuff man. I'm excited to be a tester for him on some of the items.

MiamizFinest

Brent to be honestly i wouldnt go with anything shaft drive, if u can find a roller RS4 racer 2 on ebay id go with that BUT parts are a pain in the butt to get since alot of the stuff isnt made anymore, our luck here in miami is every other person from our little hang out has 1 2 or 3 of those racers 2 so there everywhere, around where u are i dont know tho.......... if u dont wanna deal with a discontinued car u could always look for something like a serpent 710, mugen MTX4 ............u know something not so expensive but that is still belt drive AND u can still get plenty parts for!

Brent Davis

What is your reason for a no shaft driven car? Is it torque steer? I already tried to do a belt driven 4-tec for the straight on runs but man I can't narrow the rear end at all because of the two speed tranny is in the way and from most of the other cars that I have seen are about the same way with the gears from the two-speed real close to the tires as is. That is why I did the NTC3. A few guys on this side of town couldn't get their NTC3 cars to run hard off the line with a .18 TZ but me being hard headed and loving a challenge, I went ahead and got mine working. Talk about a line at my door after a local hang out night.

PAPE

miami recomends belt driven because it has less drag. you can reach higher top speeds with belt driven cars.

I dont like belt cars, but I do run them. I also have well prepered shaft cars that are fast and need virtualy no drivetrain maitenece.

Brent Davis

I don't understand the less drag thing as my NTC3 without even ceramic bearings throughout the car rolled very easily compared to a belt driven 4-tec..........LMAO! I know a 4-tec is not the greatest to compare to but that is all I had to go by. I'm just gonna go ahead with the shaft CD3 for now.

PAPE, what shaft cars are you running and how fast are they? What fast belt cars you got too?

oneofakindtrini

the cd3 is a good car but for racing the ntc3 is better and plus the parts for the ntc3 are easier to come by depending where you live.

Brent Davis

Thanks for your input but I just got rid of my NTC3 for reasons listed above already. I am using a .21 big block and the NTC3 diffs can't handle the power and the CD3 has steel gears and such. I'll see how well the CD3 works with what I am doing.

Saboteur10573

I honestly prefer the CD3 pro over the NTC3. It is a much more sturdier car especially the front one way diff. Overall the Kyosho FW05RR takes the cake - best shaft driven tourer hands down. No way the RS4 has less drag than a touring car, sorry that's just not happening. Today's touring cars such as the Serpent 720, MTX4, Kyosho are much smoother than the shaft driven tourers, but honestly are you sure you want to bash a $350 car? I could take the CD3 pro and lay the smack down to a couple guys, but with the current engine I am running they don't make a Picco pipe to match up with it for that configuration. Either way I am faster with the MTX4.[8D]

Brent Davis

Good info but Ofna doesn't even sell the CD3 Pro version anymore. Do you own a CD3 or just what you have seen on the car before? I went ahead and bought a new RTR version, took the little cheap Taiwain .12 off and installed my .21 big block motor onto it. I fabbed and made the header pipe work and use my Ofan 086 pipe as well. It is faster than my NTC3 was now. The car runs VERY hard so far.

Saboteur10573

I have owned and raced a CD3 pro while I had the R40, and now currently onto the MTX4. You can still get the CD3 pro and NTC3 at many places - it's not entirely discontinued.

Brent Davis

So you say that the CD3 Pro definately was a competitive car agains the Mugen, Serpent and other high end cars when you raced it? What size motor did you use in it, .12 or .15? I may buy another one just to have for racing.

Saboteur10573

Most magazines will categorize the car in the same class as the NTC3 and excludes it from the other better brands. However, if you have the driving technique you can give the other guys a run for the $$. I bought my Mugen when it went on sale being the Fukuda version was going to come out for $50 more. I got my car for $313....regular price $461. Back then though the 720, MTX4, VoneRRR WC and EVO 2 weren't out though. It all depends on the driver, how many hacks in a class, and if the car is dialed, but you can do it. I used the MT12 motor in the ofna, then stepped upto the RB V12 Rody 3 port std. Sure it's shaft and offers "less maintenance", but my track is clean 99.9% of the time so I have no issue of damaged belts. The car comes with urethane stock and they roll very smoothly.