traxxaspede

This could kind of be turned into a MCRC mod thread, but I just wanted to know of any good mods that would make my MCRC 'comp' ready (even though theres not really any micro crawler comps). Right now I have no springs, 1/2oz. on the rear axle and the battery on the servo. In the future, I will probably remove tire foams, add wheel weights, add LiPo, mini-T threaded links and 4ws. Anything else to make it more capable?

>> One idea I just had is to mount the ESC/RX vertically on the back of the rear axle. They way, all the weight would be at the same lever of the axle. Or would it be better to mount the battery there? I feel like it would pull the front up when going up a steep hill, so the ESC/RC would be better there, but the with the battery there, that's a lot of weight moved down, even from on the servo.

rcharg

I think the best mod you can do is to add wheel weights so they don't tip over as easily.The down side is that it's harder on your battery/motor. There is a video here: www.remote-rc-cars.com/rock-crawler/index.html that shows one going over water bottles that are almost as tall as the crawler itself.

traxxaspede

I guess I read your mind... Just put about 15g of weights in each tire, and the glue is drying now. I had the springs off, and that's another extremely helpful mod, and quite a bit easier too. It does make it a little wobbly and sometimes one of the front wheels lifts up when turning full speed on flat, or going up very steep hills. Steepest I made it was about 45 degrees up a cutting board.

DogbreathRacing

LINKS> Losi Mini-T toe/camber link set X 2, using only the long shafts, the four bottom links were heated red with a torch and bent (DON'T try this without the heat, you'll snap the shafts!) The bent links give much better suspension clearance when going over obstacles and exiting over sharp rock edges.
The links are also set longer to extend the wheelbase from the stock 4 1/4 to 4 3/4. This increases the turning radius but adds a lot of stability to the rig going over obstacles. Also decreases the front to back COG.

DRIVE SHAFTS> With the extended wheelbase you HAVE to also increase the length of the drive shafts....this was done by removing the section closest to the tranny, cutting it in half and super gluing the two pieces into a 1/2 inch piece of 9/32 alum tubing.

SHOCKS> stock length shocks, turned upside down (easier to change the springs this way) running Mico DT long springs. This allows almost full droop but retains approx 1/4 inch of spring action, this is just enough to recenter the truck after coming off an obstacle.....a common problem when running no springs is that the suspension will hang and the truck won't recenter leaving it cocked to one side or the other, the shorter springs help correct this but I still get a nice low ride. Extending the wheelbase also moved the shocks out a bit increasing the droop effect giving this rig a very nice low COG.

WHEEL WEIGHTS> EDITED
Using a combination of internal lead wraps, external BWD wheel weights, and lead shot, no foam, I have managed to get 50G in the fronts and 40G in the rears....stock is 11g This thing will crawl over anything now!


BATTERY> I am running the Aeronuts 2S 240mah Lipo mounted on the rear deck...great power, run times in excess of 15 minutes even with the monster wheel weights

ESC> EDITED
I am running the DSM system in mine. The ESC has been de-cased to reduce weight

MOTOR> Stock, but have a BBII waiting for testing if I need it....to be honest I don't need more power, I can squeal the slipper with the stocker.

BODY> I am running the Vee Dub trimmed to comp form (white styrene version) this body weighs in at 6G

The truck ready to run with battery weighs in at 340g
Articulation is 2 inches


Did I miss anything?

traxxaspede

Thanks! I'll definitely try some of those things. Are the Micro DT springs any softer than the stock McRC? I also might try spacing the tops of the shocks in towards the middle a bit. I'll probably get lipo's soon, and I would like to get the BWD weights, but probably won't. I already have 15g extra weight in each wheel minus the foams, so thats about 25g F/R. I was playing around with it yesterday and the motor wires broke off the motor, so I need to solder those back on. I might check out the BBII motor, not sure where to find it though.

DogbreathRacing

Move the shocks inboard?....Like this?



It does help free them up and increases overall articulation...

DogbreathRacing

traxxaspede

I've been looking at the Ripper chassis...I really want it, but I'm not sure my dad wants me spending $35 on another chassis for something that small. I guess I'll give it another week or two. Some small things I did was flip the tranny, add steel locknuts to wheels, file down the big inner gear (a lot less binding, but still a little) and I mounted the battery on the rear, 1/2oz. under the rear battery mount and 1 1/4oz. on the servo and inverted the shocks. Also I'm charging the battery on my Thunder AC6 at .8A, so it charges a lot faster and better. I still haven't actually bought anything for it.