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Old 11-22-2014, 12:03 PM
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apache 1
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Default Australia 2

I picked up an Australia 2 from Victor models recently. It's used and already assembled. I only had to set the mast back in place with all lines attached already.
The previous owner(builder), passed away and I bought it from his son who didn't know a thing about it. My sailing experience is limited to a pro boat Sanibel I had about 10 years ago. That blew out the back of my truck and was destroyed just I was getting the hang of it.
Everything seems ok with it except the shroud line adjustment. There doesn't appear to be any way of doing it. As it is they're barely tight enough to hold the spreaders in place and the whole rig flops side to side. Not sure if this is a common set up or not. Tried to dig through the archives here in order to answer my own question before posting for help, but had no luck. Victors' web site wasn't quite navigable,(if that's a word).
Thanks in advance for any help, as I wouldn't mind trying it out before everything completely freezes.
Also wondering if these boats have any kind of a following? I know the soling sure does. At any rate I like the idea of it being a model of a real boat, even if it is only semi scale. Might try and gussy it up with some authentic looking paint and decals.
Old 11-23-2014, 04:03 AM
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If done according to the instructions, the side shrouds are one continuous line. I used two, mostly to improve the possibility of adjustment. One starts on the port side deck fitting (rear hole), up through the outer spreader holes, through the mast head fitting (middle hole) and back down the starboard side. Adjustment is by a bowsie between the starboard deck fitting and the lower spreader. The lower one starts at the starboard side deck fitting front hole, via the hole in the mast just below the lower spreader, and down to the port deck fitting via a bowsie. The original instructions show the single line with a single adjuster and the rather optimistic note of "Adjust the tension adjuster so that the cord is taut and the mast is at a 90° angle".
I always found it a bit limited, it needed good wind to go reasonably, but it was very easy to overpower. MRP's idea of using double sided tape to hold the servos down didn't last long - I wound up making metal clips to hold them down to the tray. My Aussie 2 has lived on to a shelf for many years past but might get a life with its new owner, I moved on to slightly larger and more capable boats, currently a Victoria.
Old 11-30-2014, 08:20 AM
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Thanks for replying. Been too busy during daylight hours these days anyway. I'll most likely figure a new system much like yourself. As to it's performance, that all sounds rather disapointing. I'm not racing so hopefully I'll still enjoy it. Seems most of my enjoyment of this hobby comes from tinkering and building during the winter months. I have several, most are pristine due to lack of use , 2 haven't even been in the water yet. Such is the life of a Canadian stone mason, if the weather isn't bad, I'm too busy.
Old 12-01-2014, 02:12 AM
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It makes into a pleasant cruising boat, but, when you consider its heritage (Americas Cup) and compare it with later AC influenced designs, you can see that compromises were made to enable it to carry the radio gear of the time in such a small hull. It did perform better than many of its similar sized contemporaries. Nowadays, with all the developments over the years, performance and expectations have increased. A Dragon Force is much the same size, and is an outstanding performer, a Victoria is larger, a better shape altogether, and a great light airs boat that can still perform in 16+mph winds.
Old 12-03-2014, 11:51 AM
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Default Rigging screws -possible option to consdier

apache1





You can always incorporate a set of rigging screws by replacing the factory wire shrouds with SS nylon coated 1 x 7 strand fishing leader and connecting them to the deck via the rigging screws. I posted a few pictures of several different types of "turnbuckles" or rigging screws to choose from. Tower Hobbies has most of them. The SS riggings screws are made by sailsetc.com (30-030)- see the catalog page. I also posted two photo showing you the sailsetc,com riggings screws installed on my Nirvana
I use them on most of my boats. Makes tuning and set up a snap. The last image is the SS leader and sleeves I use.

You can double click on the photos to increase their size.
If you have any questions let me know.
Boomer
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Last edited by boomer1; 12-03-2014 at 12:00 PM.
Old 12-03-2014, 11:54 AM
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duplication deleted

Last edited by boomer1; 12-03-2014 at 11:58 AM.
Old 12-04-2014, 02:37 AM
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Hi Boomer - you are aware that the factory shrouds are not wire, but line? I'm not sure that adding metal above deck on what is already a tender 20" boat would be beneficial. The parts mentioned would make life easier on a larger boat like the one you show, but I'm not sure that they would be much help on a small one, especially one with such a narrow mast (6mm) and no provision for a kicking strap. It relies on the close fit of the collar that the boom ends in around the mast to stop the boom kicking up.
Old 12-04-2014, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mfr02
Hi Boomer - you are aware that the factory shrouds are not wire, but line? I'm not sure that adding metal above deck on what is already a tender 20" boat would be beneficial. The parts mentioned would make life easier on a larger boat like the one you show, but I'm not sure that they would be much help on a small one, especially one with such a narrow mast (6mm) and no provision for a kicking strap. It relies on the close fit of the collar that the boom ends in around the mast to stop the boom kicking up.
mfr02
The Australia ll I am familiar with is 39" long (here's a link to their web page with the spec's on this boat. http://www.victor-model.com/products/australia-II )
I would agree that the rigging screws and SS leader on a 20" boat might be "overkill", but on a 39" boat they'd be just fine. The turnbuckles or clevis from Dubro are very light and work fine on smaller crafts. Standard line and bowsies work great on small boats.

I use the 030-30 rigging screws on my Nirvana ll (32") long, and Dubro clevises on a V 32 but those are the shortest boats I have tried them on. I have the on my Seawind (1M), Yamaha RTW (39.5") , Fairwind lll (36"), CR 914 (36") without issues. Really more of a personal choice for me. I like their looks and the added strength they yield to the rigging. Very little weight gain to boot. Again, just another way to go.

I have a few sets of sailsetc's micro rigging screws p/n 030-020 that should work on the smaller boats. I have several smaller boats that I am considering trying them out on: Fortune 612 (24") a CR 610 (24") I would use a lighter test leader for these little guys. Time will tell how they work out.


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Last edited by boomer1; 12-04-2014 at 10:44 AM.
Old 12-04-2014, 12:28 PM
  #9  
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Ah so! If this is not the old Aussie 2 that I was muttering about, I'd better stand back. I was unaware that there was a near re-use of the name for what looks a much more capable boat.
Old 12-05-2014, 03:11 AM
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apache 1
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Sorry for the misunderstanding mfrO2. Victor models makes a 1m version of the Australia 2 as well as a Stars & Stripes. Remenissent of the 1983 race when the Aussies won along with a little controversy over their winged keel design.
Thanks for your insights Boomer. I think I have much of those items kicking around. BTW , nice Yamaha. Had my open for one of those for years. Closest I came was a guy in Calgary who wanted $700 and an extra $150 for the figures. And local pick up only. I got my Australia 2 for $100, delivered.
Quick question. Has anyone ever tried to dye colour sails. The ones I have got a couple ugly stains on them and replacement sails are expensive.?
Old 12-05-2014, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by apache 1
Sorry for the misunderstanding mfrO2. Victor models makes a 1m version of the Australia 2 as well as a Stars & Stripes. Remenissent of the 1983 race when the Aussies won along with a little controversy over their winged keel design.
Thanks for your insights Boomer. I think I have much of those items kicking around. BTW , nice Yamaha. Had my open for one of those for years. Closest I came was a guy in Calgary who wanted $700 and an extra $150 for the figures. And local pick up only. I got my Australia 2 for $100, delivered.
Quick question. Has anyone ever tried to dye colour sails. The ones I have got a couple ugly stains on them and replacement sails are expensive.?
APACHE1
There is some information on dying sail material at this link - fabric under discussion is ripstop. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1463901&page=4
The information is around post 505 or close to that. It is sometimes easier to buy new fabric in the colors you want and then make your own sails. Just a thought,.

There is likely more info there - to find it you can go to the sailboat section and use the search feature using whatever search words you think might be used in the posts.
If it is there you should find more reports on the subject. rcgroups.com is the best rc sailboat forum around -

$700 for a new in the box Yamaha is not to far off the mark. $150 for the crew is the high I have seen them go for. The last sets I saw on E-bay went for $65 to $75 USD.
The problem is the shipping cost from Canada for the boat ! I have two RTW's - the one in the picture and one NIB. I have extra parts I collected over the years, so I am in good shape.
Saw the writing on the walls and was able to secure parts from Tamiya while they still had some left. There is a loyal group of owners around the world that follow the forum. I get e-mails from guys looking for parts or information - Help when I can but these have become very rare and thus their value has gone up. They are really excellent sailing boats and really look good on the water!
Boomer
The picture is of my friend Dobydog Yamaha (Canada) - you can read about how he colored his sail at the like I provided.

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Last edited by boomer1; 12-05-2014 at 02:57 PM.

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