Teus

I noticed that good WW-I instrument faceplates are hard to find. So I started to redraw some German instruments needed for my Fokker E.III project. I uploaded them on Photobucket so that everybody can download and use them for free. My goal is to redraw a new instrument so now and then and add it to the collection, so keep posted to my Photobucket album

The faceplates are all free to use, NOT for commercial purpose! Only mention my name when someone asks you about the faceplates.

For a complete overview see my album at Photobucket: [link=http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk15/Teus-nl/Instrument%20faces/?start=all]WW-I instrument faceplates[/link]


Teus

Some examples you will find at Photobucket:

abufletcher

Not only are you talented...but a gentleman to boot! [8D]

ARUP

Thanks!

joesigg

WOW!!! Thank you so much. I will use them in my 1/4 & 1/3 scale planes.

jmohn

Awsome!

Thanks for sharing!



Jeff

Stachel

That's really generous of you, sir! Thank you

LesUyeda

Thank you Teus. In spite of my "snail mail" dial up internet connection, I downloaded every blessed one of the instruments shown. I already had some of them, from a previous research, but I think these are more sharp, clearer than what I had previously gotten.

Thanks again,

Les

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks very much. I downloaded several of them for future use.

Bob

geezeraviation

My Feedback: (3)

Teus, now if you could do them with out needles......
Some people are never satisfied are they.lol
Doc

Avaiojet

I downloaded one and opened it up in photoshop.

The image was 14" X 14" at 72 dpi.

I reduced the size to .75 and the image cannot be printed clearly.

Gee, I thought I knew my software?

What am I doing wrong?

Teus

Charles,

The most easiest and functional way is to print the faceplates in MS Word. Just open all the files you want to print in Word and set in the image properties menu (right click on image) the correct dimensions in mm in the image size Tab. Then go to the print menu and set the correct paper source, for best quality use photopaper and choose in your printer settings the highest print quality (Photo quality). That should give you a razor sharp print, depending on the qualities of your printer off course.

Now you are printing the file in the highest resolution. Never change the image resolution in your photo editor. If you are printing from your Photo editor than just print the unchanged file and set the print dimensions in the print file menu.

I hope you understand what I mean, see attached photo (not complete sharp ) for the possible quality. This was with a Epson Stylus Photo PX710W printer on Photo paper.

The trick is: Don't resize the faceplates but set the needed print dimensions in the print menu

Doc,

I think you mean only the compasses with out needles?

Teus

geezeraviation

My Feedback: (3)

Teus, any of them. If there were no needles then needles could be made and placed on the faces under the glass and would be more three dimensional that way.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Avaiojet,

Try putting up the image, the go to Image>Resize and size it to a smaller scale. Some experimentation will give you ideas as to what you need to resize them to.

Bob

Avaiojet

I don't have Microsoft Word pinting abilities.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

You won't find those in Microsoft Word. You should find similar commands in PhotoShop, PaintShop Pro, etc. Check your Graphics software.

Bob

Avaiojet

I have Photoshop.

I explained that I downloaded the image and it was at 72 dpi's.

If the image was at 300 dpi's I could easily print it.

I built this panel in Photoshop.

Teus

So you can razor sharp at 72 dpi Charles,

For Adobe Photoshop users;

* Choose "print with preview" from the File menu,
* Set the needed Height and Width in the Scaled Print Size box,
* push the print button,

Print should be razor sharp!


Teus

Avaiojet

Teus,

OK! Yes, sharp!

Thanks, I've learned something.

Please tell me, how come when I reduce the image in Photoshop, before I select Print, I don't get the same results?

What dpi's did you do your original art in? Did you take photos of actual guages?

Teus

I don't know exactly how it works but when you re size in PS you down sample the picture. For example from 72 to 20 dpi and then yes the picture becomes pixelized.

In the print menu, what works the same as my suggestion with MS Word, you scale the picture down and the dpi stays 72 dpi. Maybe there is someone who can better explains?

My originals are made in 72 dpi (1024x1024px) and are drawn in PS CS2 as an overlay on original photos.

Teus

Teus

I just started again drawing some new instruments and added the first new one to my Photobucket album, so stay tuned

[link=http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk15/Teus-nl/Instrument%20faces/]WW-I instruments at Photobucket[/link]

Enjoy,

Teus

abufletcher

There should be a statue in your honor somewhere!

Oberst

Saved, Thank You! Sure beats J'tech dials!


Pete

Teus

Never thought about your question Doc [X(]

Is this what you are looking for? You only need to figure out the right printing scale for the pointer in combination to the dial's scale.

abufletcher

I had been thinking the same thing...but then decided that that was more obsessive that even I'm up for! Besides, then there's the question of whether the dials should indicate typical readings on the ground or in the air.

LesUyeda

"Besides, then there's the question of whether the dials should indicate typical readings on the ground or in the air. "

Obviously they should be as seen on the ground. You wouldn't be able to see them if in the air; only the "real" pilot would:-)))))))))))))))))

Les