Notices
RC Scale Aircraft Discuss rc scale aircraft here (for giant scale see category above)

DH 2

Old 10-13-2011, 11:38 AM
  #76  
R/C Art
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (38)
 
R/C Art's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelbyville, IN
Posts: 2,042
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: DH 2


ORIGINAL: John Cole


ORIGINAL: John Cole

Art,

Very exciting project!!

If you guys are interested in adding a small detail to youe DH's that won't take much $$ or time: I had Vikie @ GetStencils.com make up the Airco strut decal. She made them as a rub on type of decal, are proportined correctly, and use metalic ink (copper and gold) per the originals.

I would post an image but RCU is broke I think...


John
Here it is...

Very nice, thanks.
Old 10-13-2011, 07:07 PM
  #77  
Tmoth4
My Feedback: (1)
 
Tmoth4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Northfield Center, OH
Posts: 2,205
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

I did my wing tips a little different. I made wingtip bows from three layers of 1/8" light ply, laminated using thick CA.

Jim
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Ol31550.jpg
Views:	53
Size:	70.3 KB
ID:	1674069  
Old 10-13-2011, 07:23 PM
  #78  
Tmoth4
My Feedback: (1)
 
Tmoth4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Northfield Center, OH
Posts: 2,205
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

This is how I'm attaching the top wing to the center section. I'm going to have screws going into the blocks and dowel from the bottom. I decided to sheet the center section and "fake in" the ribs later. The dihedral will be established by the rigging wires.

Jim
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Ge95998.jpg
Views:	69
Size:	191.5 KB
ID:	1674070  
Old 10-13-2011, 07:30 PM
  #79  
abufletcher
 
abufletcher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Posts: 15,019
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: DH 2

I'm always impressed with how crisp, neat, and efficient your construction looks.
Old 10-14-2011, 09:36 AM
  #80  
Tmoth4
My Feedback: (1)
 
Tmoth4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Northfield Center, OH
Posts: 2,205
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: DH 2


ORIGINAL: abufletcher

I'm always impressed with how crisp, neat, and efficient your construction looks.
Thanks. It wasn't always that way!

Jim
Old 10-15-2011, 01:22 AM
  #81  
Steve Percifield
My Feedback: (14)
 
Steve Percifield's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Noblesville, IN
Posts: 1,503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

You can do wonders with Photo Shop!!!
Old 10-15-2011, 05:01 AM
  #82  
Tmoth4
My Feedback: (1)
 
Tmoth4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Northfield Center, OH
Posts: 2,205
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: DH 2


ORIGINAL: Steve Percifield

You can do wonders with Photo Shop!!!

Hey, I told you not to tell anybody!!
Old 10-15-2011, 05:21 AM
  #83  
Steve Percifield
My Feedback: (14)
 
Steve Percifield's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Noblesville, IN
Posts: 1,503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

OOps! Sorry, Does that mean I can't move in now????
Old 10-16-2011, 09:07 AM
  #84  
Eindecker_pilot
 
Eindecker_pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 706
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: DH 2


ORIGINAL: Tmoth4

This is how I'm attaching the top wing to the center section. I'm going to have screws going into the blocks and dowel from the bottom. I decided to sheet the center section and ''fake in'' the ribs later. The dihedral will be established by the rigging wires.

Jim

Looking good Jim! For your dowel / screw / block arrangement... Do you drill a through-hole into the dowel for the screw to pass through? (in which case I suppose the screw anchors into the block on the other side of the dowel) or does the screw bite directly into the dowel?

You & Art are leading the way on this build, thanks for sharing the details & photos,

Greg
Old 10-16-2011, 09:57 AM
  #85  
Tmoth4
My Feedback: (1)
 
Tmoth4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Northfield Center, OH
Posts: 2,205
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: DH 2


ORIGINAL: Eindecker_pilot


ORIGINAL: Tmoth4

This is how I'm attaching the top wing to the center section. I'm going to have screws going into the blocks and dowel from the bottom. I decided to sheet the center section and ''fake in'' the ribs later. The dihedral will be established by the rigging wires.

Jim

Looking good Jim! For your dowel / screw / block arrangement... Do you drill a through-hole into the dowel for the screw to pass through? (in which case I suppose the screw anchors into the block on the other side of the dowel) or does the screw bite directly into the dowel?

You & Art are leading the way on this build, thanks for sharing the details & photos,

Greg
Hi Greg,

On my other planes the screw just goes part way into the dowel. If it goes all the way through that's OK too. It doesn't need to be a real big screw, just long enough to go part way into the dowel.

This type of attachment would not be good for wing sections that separate partway along the span. It's just for anchoring the wing to the fuse or center section. For joints that are part way out on the wing you would need tubes and dowels or tubes that slide in. The tube should go through at least two rib bays, and the ribs should be plywood or reinforced somehow.

Jim
Old 10-17-2011, 04:43 AM
  #86  
R/C Art
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (38)
 
R/C Art's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelbyville, IN
Posts: 2,042
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

A little more accomplished on the DH 2 build.

A third wing panel is rough framed, this time the top left. Shown is the root rib angle gauge I made for this project - a gauge insures proper alignment for each of the four wing panels.

Also a shot of the top center section.

As Jim was saying, any time the wood dowel method is used, especially out in the wing panel, special attention needs to be paid to anchoring the dowels. In this build I have used lite ply and luan (door skin) ply as well as aircraft ply for the anchor ribs and have tied them together with 2 pieces 1/8" balsa sheet.

If you are familiar with BUSA's big pup kit, they use a stiffener (one piece of balsa - don't remember the thickness) between their anchor ribs and then add balsa wing sheeting over and under the anchor ribs.
Their system works fine. I opted to keep my strengthening on the inside for scale fidelity and ommitted the wing sheeting.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Sq46656.jpg
Views:	47
Size:	68.9 KB
ID:	1675438   Click image for larger version

Name:	Pk30947.jpg
Views:	50
Size:	62.9 KB
ID:	1675439   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ki18252.jpg
Views:	55
Size:	77.8 KB
ID:	1675440  
Old 10-17-2011, 07:17 AM
  #87  
cocobear
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Perrysburg , OH
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

Art, you are hauling!!! Great progress, I can't wait to see it if it comes out 1/2 as nice as your Neiuport.

DJ
Old 10-17-2011, 10:52 AM
  #88  
R/C Art
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (38)
 
R/C Art's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelbyville, IN
Posts: 2,042
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

ORIGINAL: cocobear

Art, you are hauling!!! Great progress, I can't wait to see it if it comes out 1/2 as nice as your Neiuport.

DJ
I just keep fumbling along.......... then I go fly!
Old 10-18-2011, 03:58 PM
  #89  
R/C Art
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (38)
 
R/C Art's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelbyville, IN
Posts: 2,042
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

And then there were four!

Another (the last) wing panel rough framed.
Still a lot of work to do on each of the wing panels.........[:'(]

Now, on to the ailerons!

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Ca82476.jpg
Views:	55
Size:	97.4 KB
ID:	1676235  
Old 10-18-2011, 08:41 PM
  #90  
John Cole
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 13 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

Nice work you guys. I like the 'sport scale' approach you are taking; scale enough to be interesting, and it won't take 2+ years to finish..

I just applied the 'Airco' decals to the LG legs of my DH-1a project, and I like how they turned out. GetStencils did the work for me, and they will do them in any scale. Airco applied the decals to both sides of each strut, although I understand that many were painted over in the field to indicate Flight No. and A/C ID.

John

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Li20817.jpg
Views:	47
Size:	73.5 KB
ID:	1676357   Click image for larger version

Name:	Fa85396.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	43.4 KB
ID:	1676358   Click image for larger version

Name:	Wb75886.jpg
Views:	40
Size:	45.7 KB
ID:	1676359  
Old 10-19-2011, 02:46 AM
  #91  
R/C Art
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (38)
 
R/C Art's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelbyville, IN
Posts: 2,042
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

ORIGINAL: John Cole

Nice work you guys. I like the 'sport scale' approach you are taking; scale enough to be interesting, and it won't take 2+ years to finish..

I just applied the 'Airco' decals to the LG legs of my DH-1a project, and I like how they turned out. GetStencils did the work for me, and they will do them in any scale. Airco applied the decals to both sides of each strut, although I understand that many were painted over in the field to indicate Flight No. and A/C ID.

John

John
Nice wood work on the landing gear! The decals look good too........they will add to the overall appeal of the DH2 project - I just might have to get some!
If you start out with a scale outline but go with plain Jane approach, then the project can go quicker.......then next year or the next after that, if you choose, you can scale it up a bit by adding all the eye candy.
Art
Old 10-19-2011, 05:59 AM
  #92  
Tmoth4
My Feedback: (1)
 
Tmoth4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Northfield Center, OH
Posts: 2,205
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: DH 2


ORIGINAL: R/C Art

If you start out with a scale outline but go with plain Jane approach, then the project can go quicker.......then next year or the next after that, if you choose, you can scale it up a bit by adding all the eye candy.
Art
That's my philosophy too: keep the insides as simple and light as possible and add all the details on the outside where you actually see them. I usually start flying my planes before all the external details are on. The down side to that, though is, I have a few planes that are 10 years old and still don't have all the details on them! [X(] I'm always eager to try flying them once they are flyable.

Like they say...a scale model is never really finished!

Jim
Old 10-19-2011, 06:10 AM
  #93  
abufletcher
 
abufletcher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Posts: 15,019
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: DH 2

While I appreciate the practical wisdom of limiting "detailing" to the exterior, I find I just can't make any principled separation being "inside" and "outside" on WWI models. Unless every rib and half rib is in its scale location, that's visible on the outside. Every fuselage upright, stab riblet, and hinge is visible on the outside. These "scale details" can't be added later. In short, the inside IS the outside...just wrapped in fabric. But my approach is probably not a practical approach for modelers who want a strong, dependable model that can been flown in dawn patrol after dawn patrol over many seasons. I pretty much lose interest in a model shortly after its first few flights, by which time I'm typically on to the next scale building challenge.
Old 10-19-2011, 08:36 AM
  #94  
Tmoth4
My Feedback: (1)
 
Tmoth4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Northfield Center, OH
Posts: 2,205
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

We do fly the heck out of them at these events!

Next year Art and I will be practicing formation flying with these.[8D]
Old 10-19-2011, 01:05 PM
  #95  
R/C Art
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (38)
 
R/C Art's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelbyville, IN
Posts: 2,042
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: DH 2


ORIGINAL: abufletcher

While I appreciate the practical wisdom of limiting ''detailing'' to the exterior, I find I just can't make any principled separation being ''inside'' and ''outside'' on WWI models. Unless every rib and half rib is in its scale location, that's visible on the outside. Every fuselage upright, stab riblet, and hinge is visible on the outside. These ''scale details'' can't be added later. In short, the inside IS the outside...just wrapped in fabric. But my approach is probably not a practical approach for modelers who want a strong, dependable model that can been flown in dawn patrol after dawn patrol over many seasons. I pretty much lose interest in a model shortly after its first few flights, by which time I'm typically on to the next scale building challenge.
Don, when I refer to "scale outline" some of the items you mentioned are considered and included......the scale outline is anything that shows in the 3 views......so the rib count and placement is considered before gluing starts.....also hinge locations are noted and an attempt is made to present them in their scale location as well as using the same or similar type of hinges (when possible).
Remember, for me the judging is from 15 feet.

If one starts out with a "scale outline", improvements can be made along the way and details added......and static scores can become competitive as time progresses.

Just some rambling thoughts on the subject.

Art
Old 10-19-2011, 01:11 PM
  #96  
geezeraviation
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
geezeraviation's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Greeneville Tn.
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: DH 2

Amen!
Old 10-19-2011, 01:35 PM
  #97  
geezeraviation
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
geezeraviation's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Greeneville Tn.
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: DH 2

What I mean is, as Art stated, three views are more than an out line, lots of things show, some of then are on the inside and some of them are on the outside, but anything that shows that is part of structure, has to be treated same as outline. If it shows as part of the structure then its part of the models structure, if it's on the outside then it can be added later ie oil fill cover SE 5a. All external.
Old 10-19-2011, 03:45 PM
  #98  
abufletcher
 
abufletcher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Posts: 15,019
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: DH 2

I can accept the "if it's visible on a (good) 3-view, it's part of the structure and not just a detail" approach. The problem is finding a good enough 3-view that really SHOWS everything that would be seen on the exterior of the full-scale original. For example, any decent 3-view of a WWII heavy metal warbird shows rivet lines. But how many 3-views of WWI aircraft show the location of all the many (and interesting) surface features, like seams and reinforcing strips and patches? An illustrative example of the "inside is outside" dilemma is the small hatch built into the starboard side of some later SE5a aircraft (just behind the cockpit). It'd be really hard to add this "as a surface detail" after construction is finished and still have it look right. You have to include at least some representation of the structure that supports the hatch. Any then, of course, there's the "does it show in the sun" standard...

BTW, which 3-view are you using for your DH2? Are you using the datafile 3-views or something else?

Old 10-19-2011, 04:56 PM
  #99  
R/C Art
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (38)
 
R/C Art's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelbyville, IN
Posts: 2,042
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: DH 2

You need to remember that this model airplane is just that.....a model airplane, and a flying model at that! If what is there in the basic structure follows the lines of the 3 views, then it can also be used in scale competition........and your static score would increase as more "scale details" are added.

And then there are all the Dawn Patrol events where we slam them around the air, chasing each other and generallly having a great time flying.........at 50 feet up and 50 miles per hour, it's gonna look like a DH2.

Either way, it is not - I repeat, is NOT a museum scale model by any way, shape or form. Earlier I was just rambling about my thoughts on scale modeling........

I think we differ in our approach Don......you are trying to build a scale (exact scale) model and then you move on to the next build.......and I am building a model that represents a real airplane and then plan to fly the crap out of it! over and over and over again! I love the flying part and you love the scale building part. Don't you just love our hobby? There is something for everyone.

Oh, by the way, before I forget.......I am using the 3 views from the Windsock Date File, mostly.......and also refer to the 3 views from the "DH2 In Action" book. This a a great example of what we are talking about......the data file views are very detailed and the In Action views are not so detailed. Both can be used for scale competition or for building a flying replica, but neither alone could be used to produce a museum scale model.

Later,
Art
Old 10-19-2011, 05:10 PM
  #100  
abufletcher
 
abufletcher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Posts: 15,019
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: DH 2

ORIGINAL: R/C Art
And then there are all the Dawn Patrol events where we slam them around the air, chasing each other and generallly having a great time flying.........at 50 feet up and 50 miles per hour, it's gonna look like a DH2.
And that sounds like great fun and I'd likely being joining in if I lived in the US mid-west vs. rural Japan. Actually, I'm trying to decide what approach to take on a "first mount" for my Seidel 770. Ideally, I'd like to have something flying within a year...and that would mean taking a more practical approach to modeling as you're doing. But then even the "quick build" for my 1/6 scale SE5a managed to drag out to almost 8 months. I'm now thinking about a "quick build" of a Mick Reeve's 1/4 scale Strutter.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.