DH 2
#101

Don't hesitate......take the plunge! You think long, you think wrong! Life is too short to worry about stuff. You want to see the Seidel fly......and you want a worthy mount to put it on......a Mick Reeves kit is a good way to go.
A quick build to get the project flying......then spend the next year or so obsessing over all the scale details......when the outline is correct in the beginning, then what can go wrong....wait, don't answer that......the details can be added when time permits.........just get to crackin'! er, make that building!
(I am assuming, of course, that the Seidel is a good match power wise for the 1 and 1/2 strutter)
A quick build to get the project flying......then spend the next year or so obsessing over all the scale details......when the outline is correct in the beginning, then what can go wrong....wait, don't answer that......the details can be added when time permits.........just get to crackin'! er, make that building!
(I am assuming, of course, that the Seidel is a good match power wise for the 1 and 1/2 strutter)
#102
Senior Member
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Good discussion you guys. We are a rather small fraternity, and these forums are vital in keeping in touch.
I usually add quite a bit of internal detail in my models. This does not mean they are better, but it's a way for me to study the subject airplane more thuroughly. These airplanes used amazing techniques in wood and metalwork a hundred years ago, and it facinates me. So I approach my projects from a more historical angle. That's what makes scale modeling so fun, you can taylor it to whatever your interests are.
Keep up the good work. I have a keen interest in deHavilland's pusher designs. There is certainly a quarter scale DH-2 in my future!! (plans and parts already on-hand)
John
I usually add quite a bit of internal detail in my models. This does not mean they are better, but it's a way for me to study the subject airplane more thuroughly. These airplanes used amazing techniques in wood and metalwork a hundred years ago, and it facinates me. So I approach my projects from a more historical angle. That's what makes scale modeling so fun, you can taylor it to whatever your interests are.
Keep up the good work. I have a keen interest in deHavilland's pusher designs. There is certainly a quarter scale DH-2 in my future!! (plans and parts already on-hand)
John
#103

ORIGINAL: John Cole
I usually add quite a bit of internal detail in my models. This does not mean they are better, but it's a way for me to study the subject airplane more thuroughly. These airplanes used amazing techniques in wood and metalwork a hundred years ago, and it facinates me. So I approach my projects from a more historical angle.
I usually add quite a bit of internal detail in my models. This does not mean they are better, but it's a way for me to study the subject airplane more thuroughly. These airplanes used amazing techniques in wood and metalwork a hundred years ago, and it facinates me. So I approach my projects from a more historical angle.
But, Art, I'm going to order one of the MR Strutter kits (actually the 1/4.1 scale version) today!

#104

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Yikes! I laid the wrong wing plan on my table and almost started buliding a third right wing!![X(] I must be getting old.
Hey Art, I have the revised side view printed out for you. I just have to get to the post office some time.
Jim
Hey Art, I have the revised side view printed out for you. I just have to get to the post office some time.

Jim
#105

ORIGINAL: Tmoth4
Yikes! I laid the wrong wing plan on my table and almost started buliding a third right wing!![X(] I must be getting old.
Hey Art, I have the revised side view printed out for you. I just have to get to the post office some time.
Jim
Yikes! I laid the wrong wing plan on my table and almost started buliding a third right wing!![X(] I must be getting old.
Hey Art, I have the revised side view printed out for you. I just have to get to the post office some time.

Jim
Am I correct then, to assume that the fuselage width will be the width of the center section on the wing plan? and the nose cone will also be that width?
#106

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ORIGINAL: R/C Art
Thanks Jim......which drawing did you send your brother for the nose cone mold?
Am I correct then, to assume that the fuselage width will be the width of the center section on the wing plan? and the nose cone will also be that width?
ORIGINAL: Tmoth4
Yikes! I laid the wrong wing plan on my table and almost started buliding a third right wing!![X(] I must be getting old.
Hey Art, I have the revised side view printed out for you. I just have to get to the post office some time.
Jim
Yikes! I laid the wrong wing plan on my table and almost started buliding a third right wing!![X(] I must be getting old.
Hey Art, I have the revised side view printed out for you. I just have to get to the post office some time.

Jim
Am I correct then, to assume that the fuselage width will be the width of the center section on the wing plan? and the nose cone will also be that width?
I may have to make the nose cone plug myself. My brother has been very busy at work and hasn't done much...besides, I told him to stop because I gave him the wrong dimensions anyway!

I'm working on the last wing. After that I'll build the basic fuselage nacelle. Once that's done I can carve a plug for the nose cone. Then I can make a mold and lay up a couple of finished nose cones for us. Building the basic fuselage nacelle should be pretty easy...there's not much to it, and I'll see how well the former pieces fit. Hopefully, they will!
Jim
#109

ORIGINAL: Tmoth4
This is Art's thread. I have one going on RCScalebuilder. I f I post too many pictures of mine here Art will think he already did those parts.
Jim
This is Art's thread. I have one going on RCScalebuilder. I f I post too many pictures of mine here Art will think he already did those parts.
Jim

You are more than welcome to put anything you want on this thread, Jim. Remember the thread opening comments about hair brains?

It's a group build, so I figure anyone who is in the group and actually building a DH2 and wants to be ridiculed by his 'friends' can join right in.
#110

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ORIGINAL: R/C Art
I don't think so, Jim [:-] all of your parts look a lot better than mine do - like the one poster said ''so neat and crisp'' or something like that.......[
]
You are more than welcome to put anything you want on this thread, Jim. Remember the thread opening comments about hair brains?
It's a group build, so I figure anyone who is in the group and actually building a DH2 and wants to be ridiculed by his 'friends' can join right in.
ORIGINAL: Tmoth4
This is Art's thread. I have one going on RCScalebuilder. I f I post too many pictures of mine here Art will think he already did those parts.
Jim
This is Art's thread. I have one going on RCScalebuilder. I f I post too many pictures of mine here Art will think he already did those parts.
Jim

You are more than welcome to put anything you want on this thread, Jim. Remember the thread opening comments about hair brains?

It's a group build, so I figure anyone who is in the group and actually building a DH2 and wants to be ridiculed by his 'friends' can join right in.
#111

ORIGINAL: Tmoth4
This is Art's thread. I have one going on RCScalebuilder. I f I post too many pictures of mine here Art will think he already did those parts.
Jim
This is Art's thread. I have one going on RCScalebuilder. I f I post too many pictures of mine here Art will think he already did those parts.
Jim
That's the funniest thing I've read today....

Greg
#112

ORIGINAL: Eindecker_pilot
That's the funniest thing I've read today....
Greg
ORIGINAL: Tmoth4
This is Art's thread. I have one going on RCScalebuilder. I f I post too many pictures of mine here Art will think he already did those parts.
Jim
This is Art's thread. I have one going on RCScalebuilder. I f I post too many pictures of mine here Art will think he already did those parts.
Jim
That's the funniest thing I've read today....

Greg
Hey Greg...........ya, that Jim is a hoot!
Heck I got enough parts and pieces of my own - I don't need Jim to get confused!
Been working on the ailerons for the left wing panels and also the filler pieces which go between the spars. Any place on the spars where I will be drilling through or screwing into needs to be strengthened. I use scrap wing spar material for the fill and then shear web with plywood to add strength back to the spars. This is where the outer struts will mount.
Still a lot of filling and sanding to do the tips and ailerons.......and then I go to the right hand wing panels and so it all over again.
Later,
Art
#113

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ORIGINAL: R/C Art
... also the filler pieces which go between the spars. Any place on the spars where I will be drilling through or screwing into needs to be strengthened. I use scrap wing spar material for the fill and then shear web with plywood to add strength back to the spars. This is where the outer struts will mount.
... also the filler pieces which go between the spars. Any place on the spars where I will be drilling through or screwing into needs to be strengthened. I use scrap wing spar material for the fill and then shear web with plywood to add strength back to the spars. This is where the outer struts will mount.
Art, I like what you are doing with the strut blocks. I'm thinking maybe the strut could be held in place with screws or bolts right through the wing from the top and bottom. i think the real ones were attached that way.
Jim
#114

ORIGINAL: Tmoth4
Art, I like what you are doing with the strut blocks. I'm thinking maybe the strut could be held in place with screws or bolts right through the wing from the top and bottom. i think the real ones were attached that way.
Jim
ORIGINAL: R/C Art
... also the filler pieces which go between the spars. Any place on the spars where I will be drilling through or screwing into needs to be strengthened. I use scrap wing spar material for the fill and then shear web with plywood to add strength back to the spars. This is where the outer struts will mount.
... also the filler pieces which go between the spars. Any place on the spars where I will be drilling through or screwing into needs to be strengthened. I use scrap wing spar material for the fill and then shear web with plywood to add strength back to the spars. This is where the outer struts will mount.
Art, I like what you are doing with the strut blocks. I'm thinking maybe the strut could be held in place with screws or bolts right through the wing from the top and bottom. i think the real ones were attached that way.
Jim
Greg
#116

ORIGINAL: Eindecker_pilot
Yeah, the strut blocks + shear webs make it very solid. All that structure gives you lots of options for attaching the struts. What will your hardware design look like there for the strut attachment?
Greg
ORIGINAL: Tmoth4
Art, I like what you are doing with the strut blocks. I'm thinking maybe the strut could be held in place with screws or bolts right through the wing from the top and bottom. i think the real ones were attached that way.
Jim
ORIGINAL: R/C Art
... also the filler pieces which go between the spars. Any place on the spars where I will be drilling through or screwing into needs to be strengthened. I use scrap wing spar material for the fill and then shear web with plywood to add strength back to the spars. This is where the outer struts will mount.
... also the filler pieces which go between the spars. Any place on the spars where I will be drilling through or screwing into needs to be strengthened. I use scrap wing spar material for the fill and then shear web with plywood to add strength back to the spars. This is where the outer struts will mount.
Art, I like what you are doing with the strut blocks. I'm thinking maybe the strut could be held in place with screws or bolts right through the wing from the top and bottom. i think the real ones were attached that way.
Jim
Greg
#117

ORIGINAL: geezeraviation
Art just make soclets for the ends of the struts to go in and use the flying wires to hold it all together.lol
Doc
Art just make soclets for the ends of the struts to go in and use the flying wires to hold it all together.lol
Doc
I don't know Doc.........sounds a little iffy to me, especially since my wing will be in two separate panels for each wing half. Actually I hadn't even considered anything likt that......I'll have to give it some thought - it might take some time to marry up to that idea.
Art
#118
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)

Art, I wasnt being serious man, that method requires pretty much doing it like Dehavaland did it and coming apart where they built it to come apart. They didnt have to rig em every time the took em out to fly.
I'm sure rigging maintenence was part of the ritual but it aint like the were gonna put it in a van and go to Muncie for a weekend.lol
Doc
I'm sure rigging maintenence was part of the ritual but it aint like the were gonna put it in a van and go to Muncie for a weekend.lol
Doc
#120


Actually, using the rigging wires to hold the struts into sockets isn't such a bad idea...the struts are in compression, and can't come out anyway, the strut to spar joint should be a hinge to allow rigging adjustment...the Pfalz D12 uses a sort of ball and socket bolted through the spar...yep, given the the rigging wires are working for a living, then it is an idea that could be persued...I hinge my struts to one or the other wing, or both, and just fold them up out of the way for storage. I'll give it a go on my SSW3...
Evan, WB #12.
Evan, WB #12.
#121

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ORIGINAL: geezeraviation
Art just make soclets for the ends of the struts to go in and use the flying wires to hold it all together.lol
Doc
Art just make soclets for the ends of the struts to go in and use the flying wires to hold it all together.lol
Doc
I was looking at how Art reinforced the spars and it struck me that it would be so convenient to slip a bolt right through and into the end of the strut for assembly. I think I'm going to try it that way on mine.
Jim
#122
Senior Member
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The full size DH used studs threaded into the ends of the struts for attaching these parts. A nut was then threaded down the stud, then fittings stacked on top of the nut depending what was needed at that location. A hole through the spar, as you've mentioned, accepts the stud, and then another nut on the other side of the spar holds everything together. The first nut can be used for adjusting wing gap. This same technique can be easily used on models, and is scale-like too.
It should be noted that the above description is very simplified. The actual technique also involves welding or soldering the stud to a formed sheet metal cap that fits over the spar's end, which is in turn bolted through the spar. These caps can be tricky to make for models, so heavy paper bonded over the strut end will simulate this pretty well. Way easier to do than it is to describe..
Hope this helps.
John
It should be noted that the above description is very simplified. The actual technique also involves welding or soldering the stud to a formed sheet metal cap that fits over the spar's end, which is in turn bolted through the spar. These caps can be tricky to make for models, so heavy paper bonded over the strut end will simulate this pretty well. Way easier to do than it is to describe..
Hope this helps.
John
#123

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ORIGINAL: John Cole
The full size DH used studs threaded into the ends of the struts for attaching these parts. A nut was then threaded down the stud, then fittings stacked on top of the nut depending what was needed at that location. A hole through the spar, as you've mentioned, accepts the stud, and then another nut on the other side of the spar holds everything together. The first nut can be used for adjusting wing gap. This same technique can be easily used on models, and is scale-like too.
It should be noted that the above description is very simplified. The actual technique also involves welding or soldering the stud to a formed sheet metal cap that fits over the spar's end, which is in turn bolted through the spar. These caps can be tricky to make for models, so heavy paper bonded over the strut end will simulate this pretty well. Way easier to do than it is to describe..
Hope this helps.
John
The full size DH used studs threaded into the ends of the struts for attaching these parts. A nut was then threaded down the stud, then fittings stacked on top of the nut depending what was needed at that location. A hole through the spar, as you've mentioned, accepts the stud, and then another nut on the other side of the spar holds everything together. The first nut can be used for adjusting wing gap. This same technique can be easily used on models, and is scale-like too.
It should be noted that the above description is very simplified. The actual technique also involves welding or soldering the stud to a formed sheet metal cap that fits over the spar's end, which is in turn bolted through the spar. These caps can be tricky to make for models, so heavy paper bonded over the strut end will simulate this pretty well. Way easier to do than it is to describe..
Hope this helps.
John
Jim
#124

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King Arthur......You are kicking some serious butt!
We are going to have alot to discuss at the Xmas party! I can't wait!
Keep up the good work and that blazing pace! (Jim stop rolling your eyes..its not polite!
)
HPA
We are going to have alot to discuss at the Xmas party! I can't wait!
Keep up the good work and that blazing pace! (Jim stop rolling your eyes..its not polite!

HPA
#125

ORIGINAL: Horsepoweraviation
King Arthur......You are kicking some serious butt!
We are going to have alot to discuss at the Xmas party! I can't wait!
Keep up the good work and that blazing pace! (Jim stop rolling your eyes..its not polite!
)
HPA
King Arthur......You are kicking some serious butt!
We are going to have alot to discuss at the Xmas party! I can't wait!
Keep up the good work and that blazing pace! (Jim stop rolling your eyes..its not polite!

HPA

Greg