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Methods for making rigging wires detachable?

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Methods for making rigging wires detachable?

Old 05-18-2015, 04:56 AM
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abufletcher
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Default Methods for making rigging wires detachable?

I'm looking for a good way to attach rigging wires (flying, landing, and drag) that can be done fairly painlessly at the field. I don't want to have to resort to safety wiring turnbuckles. It seems like MR has a convenience system but I'm not sure how that works. Ideally, the wings of my CI would remain rigged as "cellules" for transport and all I would need to do is slip the cellules on and attach the (many) flying and landing wires for the inner wing bay.
Old 05-18-2015, 06:28 AM
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MR system is easy; rig your plane, lock the wires. When putting the plane together, there should be enough flex in the structure to pull the last wires tight, lightly man handle, and put the screw in. Im working on my Camel wires right now. Meh, it will work. Without having false ties and just plugging in the wing panels, you will have to adjust or man handle. Pins instead of screws might make it less of a sweat if you can lock them.
Old 05-18-2015, 07:15 AM
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abufletcher
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Can you explain (or illustrate) exactly how the wires attach?
Old 05-18-2015, 09:24 AM
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Im using the MR scale clevises that came in the kit. I have to backup. I was just looking at MRs web and maybe he is unwinding the flying wire to clevis and leaving the screws that attach them to the airframe brackets. One side of his flying wire setup has no adjustment, so it will just spin. Unwinding the wire will only pull out one end. I was thinking that he was taking the small screw out and pulling the wire to line everything up before putting in the screw. which is an option, but they are small. The problem with a real turnbuckle is both sides will unwind, making it a little more fiddly. Hmmm.
Old 05-19-2015, 12:30 PM
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maybe a picture of your wire and attach point would be helpful in suggesting a solution........there are many ways to accomplish this task
Old 05-20-2015, 06:10 AM
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Here's what I'm working with. I've got very scale attachment points for the flying wires (using turnbuckles) and very scale attachment points for the struts and that outboard rigging. The attachment point on the cabane is more practical and offers more possibilities. I did find one problem with it however. With the top wing panels in place, the wires wouldn't clear the root ribs, unless I attach the left wire to the right hole (and vice versa). That wouldn't be too bad.
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:15 AM
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a streamlined flying wire is one big turnbuckle. Each end has different threads so when you twist the wire it tightens or loosens at both ends. The streamline wire is the barrel. Mick Reeves ends on the streamline wires only has one active end with threads. The other end is a dummy that can spin, but adds nothing to tension. The dummy and wire stay on one airframe part and the other end you thread until tight. With a real turnbuckle you will unwind both ends. If you had a dummy turnbuckle where only one side was threaded and other captive it would be like the MR. I think in your case you have the live by the sword die by the sword problem. You have duplicated scale instead of approximated it. I think you will have to release or engage and tighten and loosen the turnbuckles. You have to build in the cheats if you need them. Safety wiring will not be that bad; you dont have to safety it to perfection to fly each time so the wire ends can be kept long for better dexterity.
Old 05-20-2015, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TFF View Post
........ I think in your case you have the live by the sword die by the sword problem. You have duplicated scale instead of approximated it. I think you will have to release or engage and tighten and loosen the turnbuckles. You have to build in the cheats if you need them.........
I concur.
Old 05-20-2015, 03:16 PM
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The fact that there are 5 "cables" on each side to be attached at the field is starting to dawn on me. The only non-scale attachment point is on the cabane struts (for the four landing wires). BTW, the original CI used cables for all the rigging and also only had turnbuckles on the bottom ends; the top end of the cables were a simple loop. Interestingly I've also seen a photo of the cables being "pre-stretched" in the factory.

On a related issue, I've had problems in the past with trying to use tension alone to hold the wing panels in place, for example, on both the SE5a and Snipe. If there's enough tension on the wires to completely close up the gap, then it starts to mess with the wing dihedral and/or incidence. So on my CI I'm planning to have some sort of "tube-within-a-tube" plug-in system where I can hold the tubes in place with a pin or wire of some sort. That way the panels are firmly connected and the rigging only has to handle the dihedral/incidence.

Last edited by abufletcher; 05-20-2015 at 03:21 PM.
Old 05-20-2015, 04:46 PM
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Scale tension and scale stiffness is tough to achieve. You would need carbon spars for these thin wings to be stiff enough. The real airplanes have the wires tensioned in a specific order or they will deform the full scale. Pre stretching the cables is smart. I spent a day chasing cable tension on some flight controls of a real plane because they were not pre stretched. The little turnbuckles will not have enough to take up a bunch of slack.
Old 05-20-2015, 05:53 PM
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I usually try to do the rigging in a specific order. I'll start with the forward landing wires to set the dihedral (on the ground), then I'll do the cross-bracing wire going from the top of the forward strut to the base of the rear strut. This sets the incidence. Next is the other strut cross-bracing wire (bottom-front to top-rear) which locks in the geometry of the struts as a unit. After that I'll do the forward flying wires, then the rear flying wires, then the rear landing wires.

Then I tension the wires such that the landing wires are taut on the ground but a bit loose when I suspend the model from the upper wing at which time the flying wires should be taut.

Last edited by abufletcher; 05-20-2015 at 10:52 PM.
Old 05-21-2015, 08:53 AM
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Don, you could bolt on extensions to your cabane points, (think steel landing gear straps only smaller), and then attach your landing wires with a bolt through the wire loop and extension. If all bolts are small, they shouldn't be too obtrusive. The easier alternative would be a quick link on the inner end - not scale, but easy and you never see it in flight. Come to that, you could also use a MR clevis end as your wire terminal - smaller but more fiddly.

Martin
Old 05-02-2016, 07:54 AM
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I just acquired a 1/4 scale bristol scout D .It was built using the hank iltsch plans and really looks great. I suspect the previous owner never flew it as I am finding some rigging missing.he used proctor 3a turnbuckle and kevelar for the rigging.but some turnbuckles are missing and besides that i was curious how the wing panels were installed at the field.I discovered a couple of small dowel type holes on the wing. the design uses a harwood inserts to hold the wing and 4 40 screws on the top panel.i have done rigging before on a sport scale se5a .but in this case it appears there is rigging going from the struts to the fusealage sides.I think I need a detachable rigging for those wires as i need to attach and de tach at the field.
i checked those small holes and see they are threaded so i can use thumb screws to hold them in place but i am still unclear how to attach and detach the flying wires connected to the sides of the fusealge itself.
Old 05-02-2016, 10:15 AM
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I'm ashamed to see that I started this thread a year ago...and just recently asked essentially the same question (having gotten essentially nowhere during the last year). Here's a link to my more recent thread and the good advice that others offered:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-s...ing-wires.html
Old 05-02-2016, 10:18 AM
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Also check out the bottom of this page from Mick Reeves Models where Mick shows how his models are assembled at the field. Looks like a good practical system.

http://www.mickreevesmodels.co.uk/~m...es/p2bipe.html

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