1/4 Scale Albatros CIII, Gary Sunderland design
#51
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Ok fuse progressing. Some good news, some bad news,.
Bad news: didn't properly mark locations of front pylon/undercarriage reinforcements properly. so now fuse sides together and engine bearers glued in, difficult to position/locate the reinforcements correctly - doh!
More bad news: Glued in fuel tank floor before I realised i'd missed out front reinforcements.
Good news:
Because I cocked up earlier ( glued them whilst fuse pinned to plan, prior to fitting plywood sides then engine bearers ) I had to cut them off again - which left a cut wood/glue witness to locate top and bottom sections. I also had enough sense to mark on the reinforcements, lines where to cut for engine bearer allowance.
Bad news: didn't properly mark locations of front pylon/undercarriage reinforcements properly. so now fuse sides together and engine bearers glued in, difficult to position/locate the reinforcements correctly - doh!
More bad news: Glued in fuel tank floor before I realised i'd missed out front reinforcements.
Good news:
Because I cocked up earlier ( glued them whilst fuse pinned to plan, prior to fitting plywood sides then engine bearers ) I had to cut them off again - which left a cut wood/glue witness to locate top and bottom sections. I also had enough sense to mark on the reinforcements, lines where to cut for engine bearer allowance.
Last edited by Alistair; 12-03-2016 at 08:02 AM.
#52
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Finally got a full copy of the Flying Scale Models magazine Jan 2010. So the actual build article is easier to see (than the scans sent to me) but also has a section on CIII history and pictures .
In Gary's build pictures (no.21) it shows he's routed exhaust through the fuse and exits starboard side somewhere around lower wing trailing edge. Says he uses a Briggs and Stratton muffler (which I think is converting something from a garden engine for use)
As it happens I have a similar 'pipe' that came off a super tigre 3000 I purchased, which may allow (with a bit of bending n' thump'n) similar set up. I'm tempted though to try and make the scale exhaust functional - although it almost certainly means gunk over top wing (assuming it can throw it up that far)
The most practical choice would be arrangement where exhaust goes straight down to exit under fuse floor. But I think engine bearers will prohibit this.
In Gary's build pictures (no.21) it shows he's routed exhaust through the fuse and exits starboard side somewhere around lower wing trailing edge. Says he uses a Briggs and Stratton muffler (which I think is converting something from a garden engine for use)
As it happens I have a similar 'pipe' that came off a super tigre 3000 I purchased, which may allow (with a bit of bending n' thump'n) similar set up. I'm tempted though to try and make the scale exhaust functional - although it almost certainly means gunk over top wing (assuming it can throw it up that far)
The most practical choice would be arrangement where exhaust goes straight down to exit under fuse floor. But I think engine bearers will prohibit this.
Last edited by Alistair; 12-04-2016 at 01:07 AM.
#53
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plan says: " 1/8" dural engine plate " is 'Dural' some kind of aluminium ? seems to appear on old motorcycles on google search?
#54
The fuse is really looking fine...I like the use of thin longerons and uprights in the design.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duralumin
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duralumin
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The fuse is really looking fine...I like the use of thin longerons and uprights in the design.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duralumin
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duralumin
Why is it one always notices a mistake, immediately after you've glued something in that prevents correcting your mistake. I've missed out a whole fricking former ! Former 2 up front. Had to brace with reinforced crosspieces and ply doh ! I can stare at the plan like homer simpson for ages and still not see something until the Doh! moment
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My Feedback: (3)
That big Super Tiger being a glow monster, I'd do all in my power to get the exhaust out the bottom. It will be regurgitating prodigious quantities of goo and you don't want to be throwing it in the air near the front of the AC, not up in the air anywhere actually.
Doc
Doc
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They sort of look Too Good, too well engineered for early planes . But if anyone wanted to give me an engine (free) I'd be happy to re-assess that opinon
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That big Super Tiger being a glow monster, I'd do all in my power to get the exhaust out the bottom. It will be regurgitating prodigious quantities of goo and you don't want to be throwing it in the air near the front of the AC, not up in the air anywhere actually.
Doc
Doc
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At risk of being accused of hijacking the thread, that BE2 referred to previously, was bought from a bereavement sale. Among the other stuff were an OS IL-300 and an ARTF DH Moth to go with it. Being a notorious cheapskate I did not go for those!
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Always the things you didn't buy (but could have) you regret
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finally stained the fuse sides 'light teak' and decided i like the colour.
Found the fuse is not straight so have it weighted down on it's side and a weight at the tail to bend the tail back to straight. Almost there but it's slow.
Been pottering with the 'dashboard' it's made and stained. Was pottering with how to make some instruments, was going to use some supplied by Mick Reeves for his 1/4 scale WWI British Pup & Camel kits. But then could hear the comments down the field. "Oh Germans had British instruments ha ha ha"
Like I said Stand off Scale - further away you stand the more scale it looks
However, find a company in Czech Repulic does instrument sets and individual instruments. Called Aerocockpit. . I picked some German 1/4 scale WW1 at random. I only need a pressure guage & altimeter on dash. Rest is switches n' such. Apparently theres a compass in the wing.
I'll post some pics of them when they arrive. could be very good or otherwise
Found the fuse is not straight so have it weighted down on it's side and a weight at the tail to bend the tail back to straight. Almost there but it's slow.
Been pottering with the 'dashboard' it's made and stained. Was pottering with how to make some instruments, was going to use some supplied by Mick Reeves for his 1/4 scale WWI British Pup & Camel kits. But then could hear the comments down the field. "Oh Germans had British instruments ha ha ha"
Like I said Stand off Scale - further away you stand the more scale it looks
However, find a company in Czech Repulic does instrument sets and individual instruments. Called Aerocockpit. . I picked some German 1/4 scale WW1 at random. I only need a pressure guage & altimeter on dash. Rest is switches n' such. Apparently theres a compass in the wing.
I'll post some pics of them when they arrive. could be very good or otherwise
Last edited by Alistair; 12-08-2016 at 04:36 AM. Reason: add pic
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Hello Alistair. I considered to purchase Garry Sunderland plans two years before. At the end I decided to make own plans according to Windsock datafiles and Lagorett drawings. The reason was that I prefer EP models, so I decided to make it lightweight. At the present time I finished the airframe basically. In the near future I plan to focuse on more scale details like machine gun ring, engine dummy and armmament.
It is true that Albatros CIII at 1/4 scale is rare occurrence.
Best regards Vladimir.
It is true that Albatros CIII at 1/4 scale is rare occurrence.
Best regards Vladimir.
#68
Nice color on both fuselages. One note: As far as I can tell both the area could the pilot's cockpit and the area surrounding the observer's turret were made of metal sheeting, painted the same color as the engine cowl panels.
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Fuse color is a story. Originally I assumed to have Albatros with linen coloured wings and dark "mahagon" style fuselage as depicted at Windsock. Finaly I have discovered that at Albatos Flugzeugwerke was used shelack as protective varnish. So I made it in the same way.
Do you have any photos, drawings etc. how is fixed the machine gun to the observer´s turret?
Do you have any photos, drawings etc. how is fixed the machine gun to the observer´s turret?
#71
I went with the dark color depicted on the Datafile, but I agree that the reality was probably a lighter color. Some period reports described the Albatros aircraft as "banana" colored indicating natural wood. Anyway, I'm happy with the color I have and that's what matters (to me).
Regarding the observer's position and turret, let me be the first to say that it's clear from the available photos that there were several turret designs and even that the area around the turret was done in several ways. On the aircraft I models (and in the photos I was using as reference) the observer's turret is surrounded by shaped metal panels. But in other photos it looks like wood. The way I modeled mine, forward of the turret is a panel shaped from lithoplate. Rearward is another "protective" strip intended to protect the wood beneath the moveable MG mount.
Note: Mine is the CI not the CIII.
Regarding the observer's position and turret, let me be the first to say that it's clear from the available photos that there were several turret designs and even that the area around the turret was done in several ways. On the aircraft I models (and in the photos I was using as reference) the observer's turret is surrounded by shaped metal panels. But in other photos it looks like wood. The way I modeled mine, forward of the turret is a panel shaped from lithoplate. Rearward is another "protective" strip intended to protect the wood beneath the moveable MG mount.
Note: Mine is the CI not the CIII.
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thats handy for me too, going to be covering in the top soon !
Ally plate arrived, gave them dimensions and they pre-cut it. Tiny bit of minor fettling and its ready to bolt in
Ally plate arrived, gave them dimensions and they pre-cut it. Tiny bit of minor fettling and its ready to bolt in
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Thanks for turret foto. It helps.
Here you will find interesting discussion regarding stained plywood: http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=41832
Basically german could have used yeallow or orange shelack. Reports about bana mens come out from Albatros DII fighter apperance which had green wings and fuse stained with yeallow shelack prior to varnishing. I personally used orange one for CIII. Í m curious if it will change shade after some time.
Another info regarding design and build of german aircraft you can find here:
http://www.craftlab.at/index.php?id=38&L=1
http://thevintageaviator.co.nz/projects/aircraft
Here you will find interesting discussion regarding stained plywood: http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=41832
Basically german could have used yeallow or orange shelack. Reports about bana mens come out from Albatros DII fighter apperance which had green wings and fuse stained with yeallow shelack prior to varnishing. I personally used orange one for CIII. Í m curious if it will change shade after some time.
Another info regarding design and build of german aircraft you can find here:
http://www.craftlab.at/index.php?id=38&L=1
http://thevintageaviator.co.nz/projects/aircraft
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I've bolted the engine plate in and i'm ready to cut out to accept engine and bolt on via engine mounting lugs.
I also lined the whole of the front interior sides with balsa,making the engine bay reassuringly substantial (I was worried the big super tigre 45cc could shake it too bits - but not now).
Having an engine plate, means it's very easy to swap out engines (as long as I have an engine plate template) Unbolt plate for super tigre pop in plate for say NGH 38cc petrol (gas) four stroke. (which I have one)
I'm dabbling with the idea of changing engines i.e not use the super tigre (although it's weight is an advantage)
I also lined the whole of the front interior sides with balsa,making the engine bay reassuringly substantial (I was worried the big super tigre 45cc could shake it too bits - but not now).
Having an engine plate, means it's very easy to swap out engines (as long as I have an engine plate template) Unbolt plate for super tigre pop in plate for say NGH 38cc petrol (gas) four stroke. (which I have one)
I'm dabbling with the idea of changing engines i.e not use the super tigre (although it's weight is an advantage)
Last edited by Alistair; 12-11-2016 at 04:55 AM.
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After weighing engines i'm sticking with the super tigre G4500. the weight difference, using a different engine to the G4500 meant a good 2+kg of ballast. With the super tigre it's 1kg.
For machine guns i've got an old plastic williams kit one (taken off an old model) i'll tart up and install on the front.
The rear parabellum is harder to obtain 1/4 scale and really startled how expensive these plastic kits have got.
So started making one (as per plan instructions) My efforts obviously aren't to the same level as you guys, but my first attempt I'm actually quite pleased particularly as it's cost 'nowt'.
For machine guns i've got an old plastic williams kit one (taken off an old model) i'll tart up and install on the front.
The rear parabellum is harder to obtain 1/4 scale and really startled how expensive these plastic kits have got.
So started making one (as per plan instructions) My efforts obviously aren't to the same level as you guys, but my first attempt I'm actually quite pleased particularly as it's cost 'nowt'.
Last edited by Alistair; 12-12-2016 at 03:11 AM.