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1/4 Scale Albatros CIII, Gary Sunderland design

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1/4 Scale Albatros CIII, Gary Sunderland design

Old 12-03-2016, 07:58 AM
  #51  
Alistair
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Ok fuse progressing. Some good news, some bad news,.

Bad news: didn't properly mark locations of front pylon/undercarriage reinforcements properly. so now fuse sides together and engine bearers glued in, difficult to position/locate the reinforcements correctly - doh!

More bad news: Glued in fuel tank floor before I realised i'd missed out front reinforcements.

Good news:
Because I cocked up earlier ( glued them whilst fuse pinned to plan, prior to fitting plywood sides then engine bearers ) I had to cut them off again - which left a cut wood/glue witness to locate top and bottom sections. I also had enough sense to mark on the reinforcements, lines where to cut for engine bearer allowance.

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Last edited by Alistair; 12-03-2016 at 08:02 AM.
Old 12-03-2016, 08:13 AM
  #52  
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Finally got a full copy of the Flying Scale Models magazine Jan 2010. So the actual build article is easier to see (than the scans sent to me) but also has a section on CIII history and pictures .

In Gary's build pictures (no.21) it shows he's routed exhaust through the fuse and exits starboard side somewhere around lower wing trailing edge. Says he uses a Briggs and Stratton muffler (which I think is converting something from a garden engine for use)

As it happens I have a similar 'pipe' that came off a super tigre 3000 I purchased, which may allow (with a bit of bending n' thump'n) similar set up. I'm tempted though to try and make the scale exhaust functional - although it almost certainly means gunk over top wing (assuming it can throw it up that far)

The most practical choice would be arrangement where exhaust goes straight down to exit under fuse floor. But I think engine bearers will prohibit this.

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Old 12-03-2016, 08:22 AM
  #53  
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plan says: " 1/8" dural engine plate " is 'Dural' some kind of aluminium ? seems to appear on old motorcycles on google search?
Old 12-03-2016, 02:50 PM
  #54  
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The fuse is really looking fine...I like the use of thin longerons and uprights in the design.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duralumin
Old 12-04-2016, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by abufletcher
The fuse is really looking fine...I like the use of thin longerons and uprights in the design.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duralumin
Many thanks . i've ordered some 'plate' ally 5mm thick, also some assorted steel off cut plate (because it was cheap Ł5)

Why is it one always notices a mistake, immediately after you've glued something in that prevents correcting your mistake. I've missed out a whole fricking former ! Former 2 up front. Had to brace with reinforced crosspieces and ply doh ! I can stare at the plan like homer simpson for ages and still not see something until the Doh! moment
Old 12-04-2016, 04:49 AM
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That big Super Tiger being a glow monster, I'd do all in my power to get the exhaust out the bottom. It will be regurgitating prodigious quantities of goo and you don't want to be throwing it in the air near the front of the AC, not up in the air anywhere actually.
Doc
Old 12-04-2016, 07:39 AM
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The exhaust on my CI exists on the bottom. There's no way I could have made a functional scale rhino-horn exhaust.
Old 12-04-2016, 11:25 AM
  #58  
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Wouldn't that model be perfect for the discontinued OS inline 4 cylinder!!
Old 12-04-2016, 04:32 PM
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That OS IL-300 is a gorgeous engine as model engines go, but I've never thought they look very good in a quality scale model.
Old 12-05-2016, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by abufletcher
That OS IL-300 is a gorgeous engine as model engines go, but I've never thought they look very good in a quality scale model.

They sort of look Too Good, too well engineered for early planes . But if anyone wanted to give me an engine (free) I'd be happy to re-assess that opinon
Old 12-05-2016, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by geezeraviation
That big Super Tiger being a glow monster, I'd do all in my power to get the exhaust out the bottom. It will be regurgitating prodigious quantities of goo and you don't want to be throwing it in the air near the front of the AC, not up in the air anywhere actually.
Doc
agreed - to much gunk .Thinking possible through fuse and out bottom midway (rather than out side as per Gary)
Old 12-05-2016, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Alistair
They sort of look Too Good, too well engineered for early planes . But if anyone wanted to give me an engine (free) I'd be happy to re-assess that opinon
Sorry, but you're going to have to get in line behind me.
Old 12-05-2016, 05:08 AM
  #63  
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At risk of being accused of hijacking the thread, that BE2 referred to previously, was bought from a bereavement sale. Among the other stuff were an OS IL-300 and an ARTF DH Moth to go with it. Being a notorious cheapskate I did not go for those!
Old 12-05-2016, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Telemaster Sales UK
At risk of being accused of hijacking the thread, that BE2 referred to previously, was bought from a bereavement sale. Among the other stuff were an OS IL-300 and an ARTF DH Moth to go with it. Being a notorious cheapskate I did not go for those!
Always the things you didn't buy (but could have) you regret
Old 12-07-2016, 06:12 AM
  #65  
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finally stained the fuse sides 'light teak' and decided i like the colour.

Found the fuse is not straight so have it weighted down on it's side and a weight at the tail to bend the tail back to straight. Almost there but it's slow.

Been pottering with the 'dashboard' it's made and stained. Was pottering with how to make some instruments, was going to use some supplied by Mick Reeves for his 1/4 scale WWI British Pup & Camel kits. But then could hear the comments down the field. "Oh Germans had British instruments ha ha ha"
Like I said Stand off Scale - further away you stand the more scale it looks

However, find a company in Czech Repulic does instrument sets and individual instruments. Called Aerocockpit. . I picked some German 1/4 scale WW1 at random. I only need a pressure guage & altimeter on dash. Rest is switches n' such. Apparently theres a compass in the wing.




I'll post some pics of them when they arrive. could be very good or otherwise
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:43 PM
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Hello Alistair. I considered to purchase Garry Sunderland plans two years before. At the end I decided to make own plans according to Windsock datafiles and Lagorett drawings. The reason was that I prefer EP models, so I decided to make it lightweight. At the present time I finished the airframe basically. In the near future I plan to focuse on more scale details like machine gun ring, engine dummy and armmament.



It is true that Albatros CIII at 1/4 scale is rare occurrence.

Best regards Vladimir.
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Old 12-09-2016, 01:15 AM
  #67  
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Hello vladimir

Looks really nice. what colour stain did you use for fuselage ?
Old 12-09-2016, 06:15 AM
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Nice color on both fuselages. One note: As far as I can tell both the area could the pilot's cockpit and the area surrounding the observer's turret were made of metal sheeting, painted the same color as the engine cowl panels.
Old 12-09-2016, 02:21 PM
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Fuse color is a story. Originally I assumed to have Albatros with linen coloured wings and dark "mahagon" style fuselage as depicted at Windsock. Finaly I have discovered that at Albatos Flugzeugwerke was used shelack as protective varnish. So I made it in the same way.

Do you have any photos, drawings etc. how is fixed the machine gun to the observer´s turret?
Old 12-09-2016, 02:30 PM
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Boy does he, Show him Don.
Doc
Old 12-09-2016, 10:16 PM
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I went with the dark color depicted on the Datafile, but I agree that the reality was probably a lighter color. Some period reports described the Albatros aircraft as "banana" colored indicating natural wood. Anyway, I'm happy with the color I have and that's what matters (to me).

Regarding the observer's position and turret, let me be the first to say that it's clear from the available photos that there were several turret designs and even that the area around the turret was done in several ways. On the aircraft I models (and in the photos I was using as reference) the observer's turret is surrounded by shaped metal panels. But in other photos it looks like wood. The way I modeled mine, forward of the turret is a panel shaped from lithoplate. Rearward is another "protective" strip intended to protect the wood beneath the moveable MG mount.

Note: Mine is the CI not the CIII.
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Old 12-10-2016, 02:02 AM
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thats handy for me too, going to be covering in the top soon !

Ally plate arrived, gave them dimensions and they pre-cut it. Tiny bit of minor fettling and its ready to bolt in

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Old 12-10-2016, 04:05 AM
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Thanks for turret foto. It helps.
Here you will find interesting discussion regarding stained plywood: http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=41832
Basically german could have used yeallow or orange shelack. Reports about bana mens come out from Albatros DII fighter apperance which had green wings and fuse stained with yeallow shelack prior to varnishing. I personally used orange one for CIII. Í m curious if it will change shade after some time.

Another info regarding design and build of german aircraft you can find here:
http://www.craftlab.at/index.php?id=38&L=1
http://thevintageaviator.co.nz/projects/aircraft
Old 12-11-2016, 01:43 AM
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I've bolted the engine plate in and i'm ready to cut out to accept engine and bolt on via engine mounting lugs.

I also lined the whole of the front interior sides with balsa,making the engine bay reassuringly substantial (I was worried the big super tigre 45cc could shake it too bits - but not now).

Having an engine plate, means it's very easy to swap out engines (as long as I have an engine plate template) Unbolt plate for super tigre pop in plate for say NGH 38cc petrol (gas) four stroke. (which I have one)

I'm dabbling with the idea of changing engines i.e not use the super tigre (although it's weight is an advantage)

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Old 12-12-2016, 01:16 AM
  #75  
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After weighing engines i'm sticking with the super tigre G4500. the weight difference, using a different engine to the G4500 meant a good 2+kg of ballast. With the super tigre it's 1kg.

For machine guns i've got an old plastic williams kit one (taken off an old model) i'll tart up and install on the front.

The rear parabellum is harder to obtain 1/4 scale and really startled how expensive these plastic kits have got.

So started making one (as per plan instructions) My efforts obviously aren't to the same level as you guys, but my first attempt I'm actually quite pleased particularly as it's cost 'nowt'.
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Last edited by Alistair; 12-12-2016 at 03:11 AM.

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